NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

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flamepanther
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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by flamepanther »

3GenGames wrote:The cleaner is use because the connection will be lost on some pins that are dirty on your game, and can make your connector dirty, too.
Which has exactly NOTHING to do with pin deformation.
And I don't know about you, but I solely collect and mess with NES. I'm only providing information I've learned through MY experience, too.
Which is how much experience exactly?

Anyway, we're not angry at you for being young or lacking experience, or even for disagreeing with us. We're disgusted that you're acting like such an immature jerk about your difference of opinion. That doesn't fly here. You don't have to be any older to grow up some.
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3GenGames
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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by 3GenGames »

Aparently I do. And I have a 1/3rd complete cart set including F2, and a lot of NES decks and experience taking them apart and tinkering with them. Also do some development on the NES too. But that doesn't really matter. And I don't know if it's an opinion, but a preffered method way of doing things. I am stating a fact that Wiemans gets the cart connector cleaner. I don't know what else to say. Alcohol will probably be the 2nd best method, if not tied with erasers.

I'll hopefully get time tonight to do some pictures and comparisons just to show you. If I provide evidence that it does an amazing job, would you try it too? I can take a video too, although the laptop webcam I have is very, very crappy. 640x480 resolution, not that great at all but if you'd want that I'd do that too on top of pictures.
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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by elmagicochrisg »

3GenGames wrote:Alcohol will probably be the 2nd best method, if not tied with erasers.
It's the combination of both together that works well for me, not one or the other. First alcohol, then the red eraser, then brushing off the eraser residue with a little brush (the one that came with my shaving machine), and finally one last wipe with alcohol - which leaves no more residue on the Q-tip whatsoever...

Alcohol alone doesn't work well at all. But together with the eraser they complement each other...

The contacts get a nice even golden shine and there are no more vertical grey lines on the contacts whatsoever...

I do wish I knew about the 'boiling the pin connector' part before dremeling it too pieces though. Would've given it a shot...
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3GenGames
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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by 3GenGames »

Yeah, boil the original connectors for I believe 10 minutes and they should work perfect again. Never done it myself, but it does work.
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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by CFFJR »

Boiling huh?

I might try that. My nes is flaky and it bugs the shit out of me.
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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by 3GenGames »

Also clip your lockout. Many tutorials online, a 2 second job.
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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by elmagicochrisg »

3GenGames wrote:Also clip your lockout. Many tutorials online, a 2 second job.
Been there, done that...

I don't know about NTSC consoles, but in my PAL console I had to ground the cut leg, otherwise it gave some nasty distortion onscreen...
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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by KDub »

Wieman's may work but I'd honestly never use it. It is made to lift hefty grease and cooked food stains off a glass or ceramic surface and to make them non stick. Not really something I'd want to use on electronic contacts. A little alcohol or electronics cleaner, a q-tip, and a little wiggling on the cart after it is pushed down (if needed) has kept my same un altered NES running like a top for around 22 years.
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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by CRTGAMER »

3GenGames wrote:Yeah, boil the original connectors for I believe 10 minutes and they should work perfect again. Never done it myself, but it does work.
Well this is reassuring. Great you are contributing, but try and keep an open mind for other points of view. Calling other members idiots has already broken Forum Rules, this site is above that.

The Wiemans Stovetop Cleaner you mentioned earlier is interesting, I can see where the glass cleaner can get rid of any oil and dirt buildup. But don't shoot alcohol down, it works pretty well too.

Boiling Advantage
This will clean off any gunk buildup on the removed connector, great to get in all the crevices. As for reforming the metal back to factory shape thru heat, it might soften the metal a little but the temperature is not high enough.

Boiling Disadvantage
The main caution is water is part of the "circuit" to complete the cathode to anode corrosion process. Cooking the metal in the pot of water might oxidize the metal, water is H2O which includes oxygen in the bubbles. Even worse is when the contact is removed from the pot of boiling water it is exposed to air. Most of the water should evaporate, a quick blow off with a can of air would help. Perhaps a petroleum based cleaner such as Electrical Contact Cleaner might be a safer approach.

The contacts are not laminated or bimetallic as in a carburetor choke spring or the mechanical thermostat on the wall. So heating up the contacts by boiling will not bend the metal.
elmagicochrisg wrote:
3GenGames wrote:Also clip your lockout. Many tutorials online, a 2 second job.
Been there, done that...

I don't know about NTSC consoles, but in my PAL console I had to ground the cut leg, otherwise it gave some nasty distortion onscreen...
Agree, be sure to ground the 10NES chip if doing the import mod.

NES LOCKOUT CHIP DISABLE IMPORT MOD GUIDE

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Re: NES pin connector on PAL and NTSC console the same?...

Post by 3GenGames »

I don't have time to make the tutorial, but this picture shows well the difference of Wiemans vs. An eraser:

http://3gengames.webs.com/Images/Random/P1010478.JPG

The left is wiemans, the right is the eraser. You can see the difference pretty good. I have other pictures, but the difference is harder to see because of the angle I took them at, and in different lights. Also, the middle shows what it looked like before, it has pencil on the chip/above the pin.
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