3GenGames wrote:Yeah, boil the original connectors for I believe 10 minutes and they should work perfect again. Never done it myself, but it does work.
Well this is reassuring. Great you are contributing, but try and keep an open mind for other points of view. Calling other members idiots has already broken Forum Rules, this site is above that.
The Wiemans Stovetop Cleaner you mentioned earlier is interesting, I can see where the glass cleaner can get rid of any oil and dirt buildup. But don't shoot alcohol down, it works pretty well too.
Boiling Advantage
This will clean off any gunk buildup on the removed connector, great to get in all the crevices. As for reforming the metal back to factory shape thru heat, it might soften the metal a little but the temperature is not high enough.
Boiling Disadvantage
The main caution is water is part of the "circuit" to complete the cathode to anode corrosion process. Cooking the metal in the pot of water might oxidize the metal, water is H2O which includes oxygen in the bubbles. Even worse is when the contact is removed from the pot of boiling water it is exposed to air. Most of the water should evaporate, a quick blow off with a can of air would help. Perhaps a petroleum based cleaner such as Electrical Contact Cleaner might be a safer approach.
The contacts are not laminated or bimetallic as in a carburetor choke spring or the mechanical thermostat on the wall. So heating up the contacts by boiling will not bend the metal.
elmagicochrisg wrote:3GenGames wrote:Also clip your lockout. Many tutorials online, a 2 second job.
Been there, done that...
I don't know about NTSC consoles, but in my PAL console I had to ground the cut leg, otherwise it gave some nasty distortion onscreen...
Agree, be sure to ground the 10NES chip if doing the import mod.
NES LOCKOUT CHIP DISABLE IMPORT MOD GUIDE
