NESRGB mod with Framemeister - jumpy image

[Bugsypal]

Hi all,

A little while ago I asked for advice about buying a video upscaler. I'm pleased to say that I am now the proud owner of a Framemeister, and have it successfully operating with my Super Famicom and (following modification) my PC Engine as well.

I haven't been quite so successful with my AV Famicom. I have carried out etim's NESRGB mod, and while the clarity of the resulting image is excellent, unfortunately I can't get it to be completely steady. By experimenting with the sync settings on the Framemeister I was able to reduce the jumpiness, but as yet I haven't been able to eliminate it altogether.

Initially I thought it might be down to my SCART cable. I am using a Gamecube SCART cable (as per the NESRGB instructions), which I obtained from Retro Gaming Cables. I noticed that the plug contains a 220uF capacitor on each of the RGB input pins, which (as I understand it) are unnecessary in this case as they are also present on the NESRGB board itself.

With the above in mind, I removed the capacitors and soldered the leads directly on to the appropriate pins. Unfortunately, this does not appear to have made any difference.

I have now run out of ideas and fear that I may be slightly in over my head on this. Can anyone offer any suggestions as to where I might have gone wrong? Two final points that may be relevant: I am using a EuroSCART to Framemeister XRGB mini passive adapter cable (also from Retro Gaming Cables) and the Framemeister is running firmware v2.00A.

Most grateful for any advice offered.

[Ziggy]

Can you run the composite or S-Video output from the NESRGB board and see if that gives you similar sync issues?

[pierrot]

Did you get a cable with CSYNC (Raw/Pure sync), Sync on Luma, or Sync on Composite? Do you have anything connected to CS# on the NESRGB board? You may want to consider wiring up ground, if you haven't already. They aren't both labeled here, but it should be like other Nintendo multi-outs where a second ground pin is just below the first, on the bottom row. You could wire both and twist them together to solder to ground on the RGB board (second pad in from the left). That may help.