PS3/Xbox "Reballing" - Leaded Solder vs. Lead Free Solder

[enderfall]

Hello everyone. I've been away from the forums for quite some time, mostly due to the fact that I've lost my job and have diverted my time to other interests than video games of late. Nonetheless, when it rains, it pours since I've now lost my trusty launch 60GB PS3 to the dreaded YLOD. I'm now turning back to the Racketboy community to help me figure out my best course of action for repairing my system. The last time I backed up my PS3 was in October last year so I stand to lose all those saves, and due to the PSN being down, all the trophies I earned over the last few weeks as well, so I'd like to try and get my system back to recover all that info.

That being said, I've done a fair amount of research into this issue and have come away with "reball", or "reballing" as the best solution to both recover my data and have a better, longer extended life on my PS3. But I have one quibble with everything I've read. Universally, everyone agrees that leaded solder is better, but also indicate a lower melting point, around 187 degC vs lead free solder, around 217 degC. It's well established that phat PS3's run at high temperatures, but wouldn't using leaded solder risk the solder melting? I have no idea what temp the solder could reach under extended heavy gameplay, but perhaps Sony used lead-free solder for this reason (besides being "green")?

What do you guys think? Has anyone got their PS3 reballed before? I'm considering sending it to these guys, who offer a 1 year warranty: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 97.c0.m619

[fastbilly1]

I reballed mine a couple months ago. It took several hours and it worked afterwards. Sadly, it took a tumble and is now broken. I do not suggest doing it if you dont have atleast moderate technical experience and are savvy with motherboards. I highly suggest, pulling the harddrive and sending it to Sony.

Cant you just pull the harddrive and have your saves?

[enderfall]

I highly suggest, pulling the harddrive and sending it to Sony.

Cant you just pull the harddrive and have your saves?

Pulling the HD is useless when sending it to Sony since, from what I've read, you will be shipped back a different refurbished console (same model). So putting in your old HD will prompt a HD format since the HD is linked to the original PS3.

I reballed mine a couple months ago. It took several hours and it worked afterwards. Sadly, it took a tumble and is now broken.

So, reballing worked, but it broke because you dropped it? Sorry, not 100% clear on that.

[fastbilly1]

Sorry, I did not know that about the Harddrives. In that case, reball it, then pull everything you can off of it. Mine worked for two weeks before my niece knocked it over. It still technically works, but I do not trust it. A friend of mine reballed his and it worked fine for 6 months before it died on him again.

So to rephrase - reballing works, but only for a limited time.

[Whatever]

Reflow- You heat the motherboard up, and the GPU to liquify the solder balls connecting the 2 parts. Then let the solder re-cool.
--expected to last as little as 1 month to a year--

Reball- The Graphics processor is removed from the motherboard. The solder is cleaned off.
Then with templates you line up about 1,300 micro (.6mm) solder balls on the processor. These are welded to the GPU and soldered back onto the motherboard.
---Should last years if done right.

Know what you are paying for, and what you are receiving. Most repair places do Reflows. Simply put reballing is difficult, and not many places actually do it.

[enderfall]

Reball- The Graphics processor is removed from the motherboard. The solder is cleaned off.
Then with templates you line up about 1,300 micro (.6mm) solder balls on the processor. These are welded to the GPU and soldered back onto the motherboard.
---Should last years if done right.

Yes, this is exactly what I'm interested in. As I alluded to in my first post, I'm curious what the ramifications of using leaded solder to reball will have considering it has a significantly lower melting point than lead free solder. The PS3 developed the YLOD due to the heating up and cooling of the existing (lead free) solder. Doesn't that imply that the higher melting point solder is actually melting and thus subject to the expansion and contraction of the solder and causing the YLOD? In that case, wouldn't using solder with a lower melting point make the issue worse?

[d123456]

I payed 60 euros for reballing in Berlin, but after a month it ylod´d again. the guy reballed it again, but I´m afraid to touch it. It could go any minute ylod again.
Perhaps Sony can reball properly. I mostly played ps2 games on anyway. hdmi and wireless sixaxis were great. Now I just bought a ps2 and. Some companies give guarantee on reballing. The shop in Berlin had guarantee for a month.

[enderfall]

I payed 60 euros for reballing in Berlin, but after a month it ylod´d again. the guy reballed it again, but I´m afraid to touch it. It could go any minute ylod again.
Perhaps Sony can reball properly. I mostly played ps2 games on anyway. hdmi and wireless sixaxis were great. Now I just bought a ps2 and. Some companies give guarantee on reballing. The shop in Berlin had guarantee for a month.

I've read that Sony will reball using the same lead free solder for environmental reasons, thus leading to the same problem down the road. This is why I'm curious why leaded solder might be better.

[Hatta]

The PS3 developed the YLOD due to the heating up and cooling of the existing (lead free) solder. Doesn't that imply that the higher melting point solder is actually melting and thus subject to the expansion and contraction of the solder and causing the YLOD

No, solids experience thermal expansion and contraction too. The problem is the lead free solder is less pliable than the leaded solder.

If your PS3 were getting hot enough to melt solder, you'd have much worse problems than a YLOD.

[enderfall]

The PS3 developed the YLOD due to the heating up and cooling of the existing (lead free) solder. Doesn't that imply that the higher melting point solder is actually melting and thus subject to the expansion and contraction of the solder and causing the YLOD

No, solids experience thermal expansion and contraction too. The problem is the lead free solder is less pliable than the leaded solder.

If your PS3 were getting hot enough to melt solder, you'd have much worse problems than a YLOD.

Thanks, that's what I wasn't sure of...the temp at which the solder actually gets to inside the PS3. I know it runs hot, but as far as an actual temperature, I had no idea. Looks like I'll try the reballing from the ebay seller I mentioned in my first post and see what happens. I'll keep all of you posted, though it'll likely be months (hopefully years) before I can accurately gauge whether it worked or not.