Should I get a SNES 1Chip or SNES Mini with RGB mod?

[Mad_Hatter]

Does it actually reverse the process (like make it better over time). I saw a YouTube video where the guy said it will get whiter over the time. I know the actual retr0bright method will make it white, but I think he meant after you finish doing the method.

Or does the method just kill the yellow that one time unless you do the method again to kill the yellow more?

Or will the yellow come back. And this method is something you have to do every few years?

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[Ziggy]

Does it actually reverse the process (like make it better over time). I saw a YouTube video where the guy said it will get whiter over the time. I know the actual retr0bright method will make it white, but I think he meant after you finish doing the method.

Or does the method just kill the yellow that one time unless you do the method again to kill the yellow more?

I did see one YouTube video where the guy claimed his plastics got a little whiter when he checked on them the next day (the next day after doing the Retr0bright process). It was impossible for me to agree or disagree judging from what I could see in the video. Either way, depending on how badly yellowed the plastic is and other factors, yeah, you might have to do the process more than once to get it back completely.

Or will the yellow come back. And this method is something you have to do every few years?

I'd imagine that the yellow could come back, but you could prevent it. The yellowing is caused by sunlight. So if you keep the console covered when not in use then you can prevent it from yellowing again. Not a bad idea anyway, keep all the dust off of it.

[Mad_Hatter]

Just bought my first SNES. Wanted to get your opinions.

I kind of overpaid by 10-15 dollars, but I won't have to worry about buying retr0bright stuff and I just wanted to go ahead and get one.

The top (couple of scratches)

DSC08831.JPG

Everything is one color:

DSC08832.JPG

DSC08834.JPG

Small chip on corner back corner though (just glad it isn't on the front):

DSC08837.JPG

I can probably do better in the future though.

One things I learned in this buying process:

The top part (or bottom, depending on the angle of the photo) will look brighter in a lot of photos, but that doesn't mean it is yellowed. It's just the lighting/flash. For this SNES, it's all the same color, but in certain lighting, the top will look brighter. But if I flip it (bottom facing up), the bottom will look brighter. I passed on a lot of listings b/c I thought they were discoloring when it was just the lighting. If I ever buy one in the future, I plan on asking sellers to take a leveled photo off the side sides. That way I can see if there is any yellowing.

Also, lot of sellers skip on taking a photo of the controller ports. Make sure they have one up if you are looking for a completely unyellowed SNES. Lot of listings I saw were pretty good, but the controller ports were dark yellow.

[Ziggy]

Speaking of camera flash and lighting... I had one SNES that I sprayed a really light grey (almost white). I took pictures of it in two different rooms. In one room, the pictures looked authentic to real life. In the other room, the SNES looked yellow. So, there's that.

The SNES you got has that sticker under the power button. That means there's no locking mechanism inside the console. Older style carts would be locked in so you couldn't eject them until powering off the console (or insert a cart while it's powered on already). Nintendo redesigned the cart shell with a "scoop" design which is pretty neat. If you have a cart in the console and powered on, then hit eject, the cart shell will push the lock mechanism which in turn turns the power off. Pretty neat. Anyway, this is just an FYI for ya, you might find it curious. But being that it's a later model, it might be a 1chip (I have no idea the order that some revisions came in). The only way to tell is to open it up and check. Unless there's some serial number guide floating around.

Anyway, regardless of 1chips, yellowing, etc... CONGRATS on getting a SNES! Now join us... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44197

[Mad_Hatter]

Speaking of camera flash and lighting... I had one SNES that I sprayed a really light grey (almost white). I took pictures of it in two different rooms. In one room, the pictures looked authentic to real life. In the other room, the SNES looked yellow. So, there's that.

The SNES you got has that sticker under the power button. That means there's no locking mechanism inside the console. Older style carts would be locked in so you couldn't eject them until powering off the console (or insert a cart while it's powered on already). Nintendo redesigned the cart shell with a "scoop" design which is pretty neat. If you have a cart in the console and powered on, then hit eject, the cart shell will push the lock mechanism which in turn turns the power off. Pretty neat. Anyway, this is just an FYI for ya, you might find it curious. But being that it's a later model, it might be a 1chip (I have no idea the order that some revisions came in). The only way to tell is to open it up and check. Unless there's some serial number guide floating around.

Anyway, regardless of 1chips, yellowing, etc... CONGRATS on getting a SNES! Now join us... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44197

Thanks for the info. Don't think it's a 1Chip, b/c I've read that most (maybe all) 1Chips have a serial that starts with UN3 (mine is UN2, as most of them were on eBay[only saw one UN3]). I'll probably check it out later to be sure.

But I don't care. As I will be using S-Video. And plus I read that thread you posted:

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=46303

As far as the ejecting, I can live with powering it off before I eject. It does sound like a nice feature to experience though, since I've always been a Genesis guy.

[Ziggy]

The earlier SNES carts locked in so you had to power off first anyway, and those were the carts that got me use to doing it that way. I actually never knew about the sloped design shutting the power off until a few years ago when I had a friend over and he did it. But even after knowing about it, I will still always power off first before ejecting. It's safer practice anyway, especially since you have to do it with pretty much every other console.

[ApolloBoy]

The yellowing is caused by sunlight. So if you keep the console covered when not in use then you can prevent it from yellowing again. Not a bad idea anyway, keep all the dust off of it.

Actually in the case of the SNES, the yellowing is usually caused by oxygen reacting with the plastic and not necessarily caused by sunlight.

[Ziggy]

The yellowing is caused by sunlight. So if you keep the console covered when not in use then you can prevent it from yellowing again. Not a bad idea anyway, keep all the dust off of it.

Actually in the case of the SNES, the yellowing is usually caused by oxygen reacting with the plastic and not necessarily caused by sunlight.

I haven't heard that one before. I've read that it's sunlight (or UV specifically) reacting with the fire retardant chemical. So if it's oxygen, that would mean that every single SNES console of that era should be yellowed. Even if it never left the factory box. I know my original SNES use to sit in direct sunlight. But I have my friend older SNES (older than mine, in fact, I checked the date on the board) and it isn't yellowed at all. If oxygen caused it, you'd expect his to be yellowed.

This is, of course, assuming that originally the fire retardant chemical was used and then after a certain point they stopped using it. Assuming that the cause of the yellowing IS oxygen, then that would have to mean that the fire retardant chemical wasn't always used from the start of production.