I had another repairman come on over to fix the problem while I was away at work. So I can't describe how he fixed, I'm just glad he did! Now if I can fix these other issues without burning through much more cash, I would be a happy camper!CRTGAMER wrote:Can you describe in detail how you reverted the TV from the Crosshatch pattern back to normal? This could be important for others who might have bricked their set selecting the wrong setting in the Service menu.
Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34...)
Re: Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34
Re: Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34
In keeping my options open, I talked to a few professionals. They are all expensive. 
And at least one thought that the power supply might be bad, so calibrating it would only delay further deterioration. That would be greatest fear, and I wonder if there is any to test the theory out.
This is becoming my blog to cover my ongoing Trinitron saga.
And at least one thought that the power supply might be bad, so calibrating it would only delay further deterioration. That would be greatest fear, and I wonder if there is any to test the theory out.This is becoming my blog to cover my ongoing Trinitron saga.
Re: Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34
Seriously, please find out the magic buttons that technician used, hopefully he is nice enough to let you know. Tell him you just want that precaution in case you hit a wrong setting again in the hidden Service Menu. The tech fix not likely an internal adjustment; perhaps some combo of button sequences on the Remote?Windfish wrote:I had another repairman come on over to fix the problem while I was away at work. So I can't describe how he fixed, I'm just glad he did! Now if I can fix these other issues without burning through much more cash, I would be a happy camper!CRTGAMER wrote:Can you describe in detail how you reverted the TV from the Crosshatch pattern back to normal? This could be important for others who might have bricked their set selecting the wrong setting in the Service menu.
As long as it powers on, no worries. However, the Sony WEGA series have a known history of Power Detection Chips failing. There is a twenty dollar fix, posted a Guide on this. Only attempt this once the TV does start acting up since the solder work is a bit tricky.Windfish wrote:At least one thought that the power supply might be bad, so calibrating it would only delay further deterioration. That would be greatest fear, and I wonder if there is any to test the theory out.
http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopi ... 37#p458437
CRT vs LCD - Hardware Mods - HDAdvance - Custom Controllers - Game Storage - Wii Gamecube and other Guides:
CRTGAMER Guides in Board Guides Index: http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopi ... 5#p1109425
Re: Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34
CRTGAMER, I will try to get the solution from him, but we did not leave each other on the best of terms... He broke my TV and then wanted to charge me for fixing his mistake. Wasn't exactly happy that I thought he should fix it for free. I'll give it a try, though.
Thanks for the advice on the power supply. Will bookmark that thread.
Anapan, about the speaker shielding problem... how would I go about fixing that?
Thanks for the advice on the power supply. Will bookmark that thread.
Anapan, about the speaker shielding problem... how would I go about fixing that?
Re: Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34
Usually the speakers inside TVs have a metal box around the speaker magnet (or apparently another magnet to cancel out the magnetic field...). There's some extra info here. If you see a crack in the metal box (if there is one), maybe some copper tape could close the gap and help reduce the discoloration. It may actually be mostly permanent, if there was a large speaker beside the TV previously for a long time, even repeated degaussing might not eliminate the discoloration. I used to have a CRT monitor that my brother's friend held a magnet up against (cool effect, bad idea). The color was permanently ruined there no matter how many times I pressed the degauss button, and this was one of those loud built-in degaussing coils that made a crackle, a hum and a click that took 5 seconds to finish.
About the test pattern disc, I was going to suggest the geometry tests in Avia Guide to Home Theater, but trying it now, the geometry tests are so dated that they assume a 4x3 screen (or I used it wrong)...
Looking through my collection of test pattern images, most of them that I have are for 4x3 screens. I've filtered out some 16x9 ones I found, and since I don't like any of them all that much, I created a new one for my own use that does what I think is necessary; The white vertical lines are 16x9 (perimeter), 4x3, and square(1x1); The circles and diagonals make any geometry distortion apparent and the grid can be tested with a yard-stick to measure problems with vertical or horizontal discrepancies throughout the image.
I've authored the images onto a DVD video ISO using DVD slideshow GUI. I wish it hadn't used Lanczos to resize the images, but it's free, and easy...
16x9 test images ISO (32 MB)
It can be burnt to a blank DVD-R using ImgBurn and should play in most DVD players and DVD capable consoles (best to use Composite so it's not upscaled and unfiltered unless your display is filtering the image).
Edit: If you do too many geometry adjustments and cannot recover/continue, try changing the settings to default from the service manual, and start from scratch. I've adjusted the zoom and centering too much, and it made fine adjustments on the corner geometry too hard even tho I'd made a lot of progress. Starting from default made it easier to correct everything else because I'd brought too many settings to their extremes and kept trying to correct the others. A full recalibration can take me a couple of hours.
Also, your technician may be correct about the power source. There's some settings on the AVIA disc, and the TVblink one that test brightness/contrast overdrive (used to set them to optimum brightness with good gamma) and can also help to find out if your display can actually handle pumping that much juice into the tube. you can grab those off my FTP as well if you want to attempt it.
About the test pattern disc, I was going to suggest the geometry tests in Avia Guide to Home Theater, but trying it now, the geometry tests are so dated that they assume a 4x3 screen (or I used it wrong)...
Looking through my collection of test pattern images, most of them that I have are for 4x3 screens. I've filtered out some 16x9 ones I found, and since I don't like any of them all that much, I created a new one for my own use that does what I think is necessary; The white vertical lines are 16x9 (perimeter), 4x3, and square(1x1); The circles and diagonals make any geometry distortion apparent and the grid can be tested with a yard-stick to measure problems with vertical or horizontal discrepancies throughout the image.
I've authored the images onto a DVD video ISO using DVD slideshow GUI. I wish it hadn't used Lanczos to resize the images, but it's free, and easy...
16x9 test images ISO (32 MB)
It can be burnt to a blank DVD-R using ImgBurn and should play in most DVD players and DVD capable consoles (best to use Composite so it's not upscaled and unfiltered unless your display is filtering the image).
Edit: If you do too many geometry adjustments and cannot recover/continue, try changing the settings to default from the service manual, and start from scratch. I've adjusted the zoom and centering too much, and it made fine adjustments on the corner geometry too hard even tho I'd made a lot of progress. Starting from default made it easier to correct everything else because I'd brought too many settings to their extremes and kept trying to correct the others. A full recalibration can take me a couple of hours.
Also, your technician may be correct about the power source. There's some settings on the AVIA disc, and the TVblink one that test brightness/contrast overdrive (used to set them to optimum brightness with good gamma) and can also help to find out if your display can actually handle pumping that much juice into the tube. you can grab those off my FTP as well if you want to attempt it.
Re: Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34
Thanks for the advice about the speaker. I am going to open the set yup and see what I can do. Experiment a bit to see what the problem may be before anything.
As for the test patterns, great! Thank you! I wonder, though, if I used DVDs to calibrate the set that I would only be calibrating SD input on the set. I've read from others that going into the service menu will only affect the current input, not the whole set, though I may be wrong about that. Any good test patterns for centering the screen and overscan?
As for the test patterns, great! Thank you! I wonder, though, if I used DVDs to calibrate the set that I would only be calibrating SD input on the set. I've read from others that going into the service menu will only affect the current input, not the whole set, though I may be wrong about that. Any good test patterns for centering the screen and overscan?
Re: Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34
I know the service menu has per-input color and tint controls but I thought the geometry adjustments were global. I don't have as much experience on sony HD display service menus - I only did a couple of quick adjustments. It makes sence that the hd and sd have separate adjustments. In any case it's always best to attempt to display the test patterns on the devices you plan to use. Unless it's digital the centering and safe area vary widely among devices. That's what makes the 240p test suite awesome.
I provided all my geometry and zoom/overscan test patterns for 6x9 widescreen earlier. The grid on the one I made can help you center whatever's been cut off 8f you crop the overscan (most upscaling DVD players allow for different zoom in their setup menu). For 4x3 ones I have many more on the FTP link provided if you poke around there.
I provided all my geometry and zoom/overscan test patterns for 6x9 widescreen earlier. The grid on the one I made can help you center whatever's been cut off 8f you crop the overscan (most upscaling DVD players allow for different zoom in their setup menu). For 4x3 ones I have many more on the FTP link provided if you poke around there.
Re: Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34
Anapan, I have had more time to go into the service menu and mess around (don't worry, I recorded ALL the values before I changed them). I am having a lot of fun groping around in the dark! When I learn something new, it becomes a little less dark. Thanks a lot for the test patterns - they are very useful!
My biggest obstacle right now, though, are all these abbreviations in the service menu. I don't know what they stand for, and quite a lot of time seem to do the exact same thing. Exact. Same. Thing. If you know of any resource that can help figure out what exactly these things mean in plain English, I would appreciate it. DHPH seems to do the same thing as HPOS, and a lot of other options seem to accomplish the same result. Weird stuff like that.
(CRTGamer, my repairmen isn't returning my calls.
)
My biggest obstacle right now, though, are all these abbreviations in the service menu. I don't know what they stand for, and quite a lot of time seem to do the exact same thing. Exact. Same. Thing. If you know of any resource that can help figure out what exactly these things mean in plain English, I would appreciate it. DHPH seems to do the same thing as HPOS, and a lot of other options seem to accomplish the same result. Weird stuff like that.
(CRTGamer, my repairmen isn't returning my calls.
)Re: Discoloration, geometry, and overscan issues (Sony KD-34
Glad you're having as much fun as I do in there. Each Sony TV has a slightly different set of 4-letter abbreviations.
I used to have a bookmark where a guy was compiling what these all were, but I've lost it (it was right under the one crtgamer listed earlier).
Here's some:
http://www.orpheuscomputing.com/technic ... _mode.html
http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/televi ... 7FS120.pdf (page 4+)
I'm sure there's a link to the full one they figured out in that link somewhere...
Regarding the 2 you mentioned, HPOS is "Horizontal Position", and DHPH is "H active display area phase". Visually they do the same thing, tho scrolling either of them over too much will probably do different bad things...
If I provided a link to my rear projector's Service manual it has tons (maybe 6 pages in small text) of settings with the abbreviations listed in mostly understandable English, but most of it's settings will not be on your set (they involve per-color adjustments and convergence), and any to do with HD will be missing. It'd probably just confuse things.
I used to have a bookmark where a guy was compiling what these all were, but I've lost it (it was right under the one crtgamer listed earlier).
Here's some:
http://www.orpheuscomputing.com/technic ... _mode.html
http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/televi ... 7FS120.pdf (page 4+)
I'm sure there's a link to the full one they figured out in that link somewhere...
Regarding the 2 you mentioned, HPOS is "Horizontal Position", and DHPH is "H active display area phase". Visually they do the same thing, tho scrolling either of them over too much will probably do different bad things...
If I provided a link to my rear projector's Service manual it has tons (maybe 6 pages in small text) of settings with the abbreviations listed in mostly understandable English, but most of it's settings will not be on your set (they involve per-color adjustments and convergence), and any to do with HD will be missing. It'd probably just confuse things.