Best Video Output for PAL Playstation Model SCPH-7502

[BitFaced]

Bump/Double Post.
How am I supposed to tell if the Sync signal is off? And could I use the Sync Stripper mod with my GameCube SCART cable?
Anyways, I'll try getting this SCART cable and if it doesn't look improved I'll get a S-Video Cable + SCART adapter or maybe a modded component cable.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260945925357

[bmoc]

If there is a problem with your sync, the picture may look warped (see this page for an example) or there may be other forms of interference such as jailbars (example: http://imgboot.com/images/Drakon/32xsvi ... idofix.jpg)

It may be possible to mod the Gamecube cable if there is enough room for it in the cable. Alternatively, you may want to build a short SCART extension cable with the sync stripper built into that so you can test it on any of your consoles without having to take apart the individual cables.

[theclaw]

Bump/Double Post.
How am I supposed to tell if the Sync signal is off? And could I use the Sync Stripper mod with my GameCube SCART cable?
Anyways, I'll try getting this SCART cable and if it doesn't look improved I'll get a S-Video Cable + SCART adapter or maybe a modded component cable.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260945925357

You'd need the NTSC console. PAL Gamecube replaced s-video with RGB.

[BitFaced]

Bump/Double Post.
How am I supposed to tell if the Sync signal is off? And could I use the Sync Stripper mod with my GameCube SCART cable?
Anyways, I'll try getting this SCART cable and if it doesn't look improved I'll get a S-Video Cable + SCART adapter or maybe a modded component cable.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260945925357

You'd need the NTSC console. PAL Gamecube replaced s-video with RGB.

Sorry I meant the PS1.
Though my NGC SCART cable does have horizontal lines going across and SCART video quality rubbish so maybe modding that sync stripper thing to it will fix that.

[BitFaced]

UPDATE TIME!

So I finally got the RGB SCART cable someone recommended me, I tried it out and... It came out as Composite.

Sweet.

I'm convinced the bloody SCART socket on the TV I'm using is not RGB, as when it isn't RGB compatible, the cable gives Composite instead.

So I need a way to get RGB SCART on this RGB-SCART-less HD TV and I need it cheap, quick and dirty. Remember, the input layout is like so:

HDMI
VGA + Audio In
SCART (Doesn't do RGB, does Composite, may do S-Video)
YPbPr + Composite + L & R Audio + COAX Audio Out

Oh, and can I utilize something like a SCART switcher so I wouldn't have to get a scaler for each input?

[bmoc]

So I need a way to get RGB SCART on this RGB-SCART-less HD TV and I need it cheap, quick and dirty. Remember, the input layout is like so:

I still think you'd be better off saving up for a scaling solution, but if that is not an option then perhaps an RGB SCART to component converter? Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAMA-SCART-TO ... 0762047031

You may also need an audio breakout box if the SCART to Component converter does not have audio out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scart-Audio-Ext ... 338000fd5c (Some SCART switch boxes have audio breakout builtin. Just be aware if you are planning to get one of those)

Oh, and can I utilize something like a SCART switcher so I wouldn't have to get a scaler for each input?

That is correct. You'd just connect your scaler between your TV and the switch box. Just be sure that the switch box is RGB compatible.

[BitFaced]

So I need a way to get RGB SCART on this RGB-SCART-less HD TV and I need it cheap, quick and dirty. Remember, the input layout is like so:

I still think you'd be better off saving up for a scaling solution, but if that is not an option then perhaps an RGB SCART to component converter? Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAMA-SCART-TO ... 0762047031

You may also need an audio breakout box if the SCART to Component converter does not have audio out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scart-Audio-Ext ... 338000fd5c (Some SCART switch boxes have audio breakout builtin. Just be aware if you are planning to get one of those)

I don't know, aren't the average prices for scalers really expensive? Like around £50-£100 cheap? The only one I think I could get my hands on is the GBS-8200, so is that any good/worth getting/helping me with the RGB problem (I assume you could just solder a SCART cable to it)? If it will work and help me with this problem then I'm sure I could get it and a Sync Strike>

Oh, and can I utilize something like a SCART switcher so I wouldn't have to get a scaler for each input?

That is correct. You'd just connect your scaler between your TV and the switch box. Just be sure that the switch box is RGB compatible.

Whoo boy, those SCART switchers may not be cheap either but I'll take a look...
EDIT: Is the Bandridge 5-Way SCART Selector good enough?

[bmoc]

The GBS-8200 is one of the lower end scalers and from what I hear, it offers decent bang for your buck. I have heard that using it with a scanline generator (to hide its graphical flaws) works pretty well.

If you were to get one of those, your setup would be something like this:

Console --> SCART cable --> SCART to Component converter --> Component cables --> GBS-8200 --> VGA cable --> TV

Throw in an audio breakout box and/or SCART switch box and that will be quite a mess of cables. Functional but messy.

You could start off with just the SCART to Component converter and see how that goes without the scaler. If it doesn't look good then you can add the scaler. After that you may even want to add a scanline generator and/or sync strike. Here are some possible configurations:
Console --> SCART cable --> SCART to Component converter --> Component cables --> GBS-8200 --> VGA cable --> SLG3000 --> VGA cable --> TV

Console --> SCART cable --> Sync Strike --> VGA cable --> GBS-8200 --> VGA cable --> SLG3000 --> VGA cable --> TV

Again I will recommend the SLG-in-a-Box for simplicity's sake as it effectively combines the GBS-8200, Sync Strike, and SLG3000 into one device but that may be out of your price range.

As for the SCART switchbox that you mentioned, I can find no indication that it supports RGB. The RGB Scart switchers that I see mentioned most often among gamers are the Hama 100S, the Keene Scart Commander, and the Shinybow SB-5525. The Hama 100S is cheapest of three but it also only has 3 inputs.

[BitFaced]

Three problems with using a SLG 3000 (I don't know if these apply to "GBS-8200 -> VGA" but I sure hope they don't):
-PAL 50HZ Systems on CGA2VGA give you problems like choppy scrolling.
-VGA input on TV is limited to 60HZ.
-Scanlines (with no framerate conversion) mean getting a Linedoubler (with RGB input) & a VGA to Component or HDMI adapter. Not too cheap.
The whole reason I started to make PS1/PS2/NGC/Wii look good on HD TV is because I couldn't do scanlines unless if I was willing to spend lots and lots of money.

Is there too much of a reason to get a Sync Strike for me personally? I guess if you couldn't modify the scaler to accept RGB like I said.

Anyways, I think I'd be fine with having a messy set up, certainly if it made my PS1 games look RGB-good.

On the topic of SCART -> Component, the CSY 2100 is apparently the cheapest good Component to SCART transcoder and that costs like $100. Not to mention you need to mod it for audio. But hey, again I ask, can't you just mod the GBS-8200 for SCART input through soldering? Or am I mixing that up with another scaler?

I might get the Hama 100s out of the three. It only has three inputs and that's exactly how many I'm using right now (and one of them, VHS, isn't even video game related) but I could use more ports in the future. A good example is SCART-adapted S-Video

[bmoc]

Three problems with using a SLG 3000 (I don't know if these apply to "GBS-8200 -> VGA" but I sure hope they don't):
-PAL 50HZ Systems on CGA2VGA give you problems like choppy scrolling.
-VGA input on TV is limited to 60HZ.
-Scanlines (with no framerate conversion) mean getting a Linedoubler (with RGB input) & a VGA to Component or HDMI adapter. Not too cheap.
The whole reason I started to make PS1/PS2/NGC/Wii look good on HD TV is because I couldn't do scanlines unless if I was willing to spend lots and lots of money.

I'm not a PAL expert but I've seen videos of people from the UK using the GBS-8220+SLG3000/SLG-in-a-Box just fine. I assume they were using PAL equipment. Certainly worth further investigation. Maybe someone else will chime in on that.

Is there too much of a reason to get a Sync Strike for me personally? I guess if you couldn't modify the scaler to accept RGB like I said.

It probably wouldn't be too hard to mod the scaler to accept SCART using the 8-pin connector just above the CGA input. However a Sync Strike would make that a non-issue and you'd have the benefit of knowing that you had a good sync signal plus you'd have audio breakouts from the Sync Strike as well.