I need some information and tips for a Famicom Disc system!

[Hobie-wan]

The power brick is doing the heavy lifting in stepping down the voltage. So it will be a bit warmer, but as long as it is ventilated ok and you're not playing in a hot room it should be fine.

You could do that if you like to waste money, I've used Japanese PSUs for years and never had a single problem. If you really wanted to, you could use an American PSU but a Japanese one will work fine.

Just note this would be some other voltage appropriate US power brick NOT a NES brick. Never use a US NES brick with anything else as it puts out AC when nearly everything else spits out DC. AC will make a device that expects DC very dead.

[SamuraiMegas]

Apparently the kid's dad had it imported from Japan and got it the day after release. I haven't been able to talk to the dad yet so no idea what is included exactly.

[Jamisonia]

This is bad advice. Just because it works doesn't mean its good for the long term longevity of the system.

Huh? Japanese systems use NTSC just like American consoles, how is that detrimental?

NTSC has nothing to do with the power systems the two countries are on. The US is 110/120VAC, and Japan is 100VAC. That is not the same. It does hurt the system over the long term to run it off incorrect power. The Famicom does get hotter when running on American power vs Japanese power. Have you tested it? Because I have. The power supply unit that comes with it is not intended to accept 110/120VAC. That means it will not be able to knock it down to the proper DC output voltage that the Famicom is engineered to run on. Again it will work. Is it good for the system? No, it will cause part failure early. It runs hotter, that is objectively verifiable.

Additionally I've run a Panasonic Q using both straight American power, and a step down converter. On American power the fan ran faster and louder, and the LEDs were brighter. Clearly the system was engineered to knock 100VAC down to the required DC voltage, not 110/120VAC.

I don't see why you make it out as a controversy though considering I haven't seen anyone stand up for the Famicom's RF output. It actually does look very close to the front loader NES *if* you do the mod correctly (isolate pin 21 of the PPU, use shielded cable, etc.).

The controversy is which mod to use. I see you're not familiar with the most recent mod, which calls for one to desolder the PPU entirely, and put copper tape underneath it, then ground the tape to shield the PPU entirely. I have done the mod you speak of, using shielded cables, and it does not look anything close to the toaster NES. As I said before, it seems to depend greatly on each system. Some systems have cleaner output than others. So yours may well look close to the toaster NES, and mine looks nowhere near it.

I get the impression you just wanted to call me out for giving the correct advice, because you've gotten away with taking shortcuts for years. Often taking shortcuts will still work in the short term. I think its best to give someone new the correct way of doing thing. If they choose to take shortcuts later that's their call.

[Hobie-wan]

Additionally I've run a Panasonic Q using both straight American power, and a step down converter. On American power the fan ran faster and louder, and the LEDs were brighter. Clearly the system was engineered to knock 100VAC down to the required DC voltage, not 110/120VAC.

Inferior Panasonic Q is inferior.

[Jamisonia]

Additionally I've run a Panasonic Q using both straight American power, and a step down converter. On American power the fan ran faster and louder, and the LEDs were brighter. Clearly the system was engineered to knock 100VAC down to the required DC voltage, not 110/120VAC.

Inferior Panasonic Q is inferior.

I agree its not tough to make a power supply that works with anything from 100VAC to 220VAC 50/60hz.

[ApolloBoy]

It does hurt the system over the long term to run it off incorrect power. The Famicom does get hotter when running on American power vs Japanese power. Have you tested it? Because I have. The power supply unit that comes with it is not intended to accept 110/120VAC. That means it will not be able to knock it down to the proper DC output voltage that the Famicom is engineered to run on. Again it will work. Is it good for the system? No, it will cause part failure early. It runs hotter, that is objectively verifiable.

I have indeed tried it out, I haven't noticed any difference between PSUs. Again, I've got several other Japanese systems and they run at exactly the same temp regardless of what PSU I'm using.

Additionally I've run a Panasonic Q using both straight American power, and a step down converter. On American power the fan ran faster and louder, and the LEDs were brighter. Clearly the system was engineered to knock 100VAC down to the required DC voltage, not 110/120VAC.

Perhaps that's one exception, but for most systems it should be fine regardless of the PSU.

I don't see why you make it out as a controversy though considering I haven't seen anyone stand up for the Famicom's RF output. It actually does look very close to the front loader NES *if* you do the mod correctly (isolate pin 21 of the PPU, use shielded cable, etc.).

I get the impression you just wanted to call me out for giving the correct advice, because you've gotten away with taking shortcuts for years. Often taking shortcuts will still work in the short term. I think its best to give someone new the correct way of doing thing. If they choose to take shortcuts later that's their call.

[Jamisonia]

@Apollo Boy, all I can say is you're doing it wrong, and giving bad advice to boot. 100VAC ≠ 120VAC

[bdlou]

It seems like this article goes in to detail regarding the power:
http://famicomworld.com/workshop/tech/f ... r-adaptor/

That being said, isn't the typical suggested method to use Sega Genesis adapters? That's what I've been doing, though I really don't run my Famicom's for extended periods of time.

[Jamisonia]

I have heard this as well. Probably the best and most convenient method is to get an AC adapter that outptus the same specs as the original Adapters that are made to work with 120VAC