Cleaning N64 Carts (RF Shield?)

[Vencabot]

Hey, guys! I have a question regarding the metal bits near the contacts in a closed N64 cartridge, which I've just recently learned is an RF shield. It seems like, when I've cleaned my N64 carts with a q-tip and rubbing alcohol with the cart all closed up, the q-tip will (of course) graze the revealed surfaces of the shield, and, in my experiences, no matter how many q-tips I use -- or even erasers -- the shield will continue to blacken whatever I'm using to clean it.

At first, I figured that this was just some property of the metal or something, and maybe it is, but I read, today, that the RF shields are 'coated' to make them more effective? Is the coating what I'm rubbing off?

I ask because I've finally gotten my gamebits and screwdrivers in the mail, today, and I've been experimenting with cleaning carts after opening them versus cleaning them while they're closed, and I'm curious if I should bother trying to clean the RF shield now that I'll have a better angle at it. Do they just get super-dirty? Should I even bother trying to clean it? Would I actually be doing damage by cleaning the shield with rubbing alcohol because I'd be rubbing off some kind of coating?

Does anybody know? Thanks in advance!

-David

[CRTGAMER]

No need to really clean up the shields other then a quick wipe to remove any dust or residue. The shield does not have to be shiny, it looks to be just a zinc coating on steel.

Good that you invested in the gamebit, the best way to clean cart contacts with the PCB removed. I recommend using a pencil eraser instead of chemicals. Less mess, no chemical coating left behind and leaves the PCB Contact a nice shiny sheen.

[Vencabot]

No need to really clean up the shields other then a quick wipe to remove any dust or residue. The shield does not have to be shiny, it looks to be just a zinc coating on steel.

Good that you invested in the gamebit, the best way to clean cart contacts with the PCB removed. I recommend using a pencil eraser instead of chemicals. Less mess, no chemical coating left behind and leaves the PCB Contact a nice shiny sheen.

Yeah, that's what I figured; I just didn't want for the shield to gunk up the inside of my console when I insert the cartridge. Any idea of why attempts to clean the shield continue to yield black residue time and time again? I recently went through my entire N64 collection and cleaned them up, and I eventually decided to just ignore the black residue from the shield because it never seemed to diminish. Is it the zinc coating, do you think?

Also, because I've heard so many different tips for cleaning cartridges, my modus operandi is to blow the contacts with compressed air to blow away any dust or large debris, then scrub the contacts with rubbing alcohol, then with a pencil eraser, then use the compressed air to blow away the eraser shavings, then scrub with more alcohol, mop up any remaining alcohol with a q-tip, and then blow one more time with canned air. That being said, I was considering skipping the eraser step, since I've been questioning its usefulness, especially because:

Most of the tips that I read suggest to use a white, vinyl eraser, as opposed to a pink (or dyed) rubber eraser like those found on the backs of most #2 pencils.

So, not to derail my own thread, but, since you mentioned it, is the white, vinyl eraser what you use? And do you really think that rubbing with an eraser makes chemicals obsolete? Also, I've heard from different parties that using a small amount of alcohol will either A.) not leave residue, or B.) that the residue is somehow beneficial to the long-term cleanliness of the contacts.

I'm sure that, in a community like this, this topic has probably been discussed a million times and probably with no objective 'best' method ever being settled upon, but I'm open to any and all tips.

-David

[CRTGAMER]

No need to really clean up the shields other then a quick wipe to remove any dust or residue. The shield does not have to be shiny, it looks to be just a zinc coating on steel.

Yeah, that's what I figured; I just didn't want for the shield to gunk up the inside of my console when I insert the cartridge. Any idea of why attempts to clean the shield continue to yield black residue time and time again? I recently went through my entire N64 collection and cleaned them up, and I eventually decided to just ignore the black residue from the shield because it never seemed to diminish. Is it the zinc coating, do you think?

So, not to derail my own thread, but, since you mentioned it, is the white, vinyl eraser what you use? And do you really think that rubbing with an eraser makes chemicals obsolete? Also, I've heard from different parties that using a small amount of alcohol will either A.) not leave residue, or B.) that the residue is somehow beneficial to the long-term cleanliness of the contacts.

Any pencil eraser for me works fine with the cart open up, easier then chemicals. Just don't use Ink erasers that will "sandpaper" away the connector. Any residue left behind just puts resistance in the electrical connection. Leaving a chemical coating for corrosion prevention is not needed in a climate controlled environment such as your living room.

I have see zinc coating on Simpson construction brackets and older Atari 2600 shields turn black in some spot. Best not to aggravate the process, just to leave the RF shield alone other then a quick wipe. A very light coat of oil will help, but at the risk of contaminating the electrics.

Contact Cleaning Guide - http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopi ... 02#p501002

[Vencabot]

Thanks, man! Very informative stuff. Wow, that thread has detailed instructions on how to clean every type of game cart? Nyoughmygod. I love this community, haha.

Thanks again, and have a nice night.

-David

[EDIT] I guess that it's not every type of cart, but very awesome!

[Ziggy]

Alcohol is all that's needed 99% of the time. The only time you might want to consider something else, like an eraser, is if there's excessive build up on the contacts. In that case, alcohol would still be fine, but using something abrasive would kill some of the scrubbing time if you were to use just alcohol alone. Otherwise, just scrub them with some alcohol. If you're opening the carts up to clean them, then skip the compressed air as well. Opening the carts to clean them will definitely give you a much better opportunity. Instead of having to shove a Q-Tip in there, and not getting proper leverage, you'll have full access to the pins. I recommend using alcohol and an old cotton t-shirt (preferably a while one).

As for the shielding on the N64 carts, that's interesting. To be honest, I've never bothered trying to clean them before. If you keep removing black from them, then there must be some sort of coating. In that case, I would say just a swipe to remove any dust would be enough. They're not as imperative to clean as the pins are. Really, since they're all ground, only one of them has to make sufficient contact with the outside of cart slot for the entire shield to be grounded.

[CRTGAMER]

Alcohol is all that's needed 99% of the time. The only time you might want to consider something else, like an eraser, is if there's excessive build up on the contacts.

Agree, alcohol is the quickest way to clean, wipe wet then wipe off to prevent if any dirt left behind. Most of the carts I come across need just that little bit more since the alcohol does not bring out the shine. An unfortunate affect of buying most of the games at Swap Meets or Thrift Stores. Not really oxidized in most cases, just needs that extra scrub with the pencil eraser.

EDIT
@ Ziggy - Good point about the alcohol for the easy quick clean and RF Shield contact to the console!

@ Vencabot - Thanks for bringing to light about the RF Shield turning black. The black discoloration is caused by the cathode to anode process aggravated by the alcohol as a catalyst. Not sure if the zinc coating or change in properties affects the RF shielding aspect, but the original anode ready state has to be better for at least the metal it is sealing.

I added both of your quotes and updated info back at the Cart Cleaning Guide.

[Ziggy]

Agree, alcohol is the quickest way to clean, wipe wet then wipe dry to prevent if any coating left behind.

Actually, alcohol doesn't leave a residue, so that's not why you would wanna wipe it dry. That's why alcohol is used, because it does NOT leave a residue. That's why electrical contact cleaner is basically just alcohol. But the reason you would wanna wipe it dry is to remove any grime along with the alcohol. The alcohol will lift dirt and grim when you scrub with it, but depending how dirty the contacts are, when the alcohol dries (which is very quickly) some of the dirt and grime will dry back onto the contacts.

So you wanna wipe the alcohol off for that reason, not so much because you wanna remove the alcohol, but because you wanna remove as much of the dirt and grime as possible in one pass. Alcohol evaporates very quickly, so you can pretty much ignore that fact that you're wetting the pins.

[CRTGAMER]

Agree, alcohol is the quickest way to clean, wipe wet then wipe off to prevent if any dirt left behind.

The reason you would wanna wipe it dry is to remove any grime along with the alcohol. The alcohol will lift dirt and grim when you scrub with it, but depending how dirty the contacts are, when the alcohol dries (which is very quickly) some of the dirt and grime will dry back onto the contacts.

Thanks that clarifies things. I updated your Quote in the Guide and Edited my post as well.