Well, discovered last night when was working on the N64 controller section, that the joystick could have probably been static and not rotateable by doing this tip I came up with when experimenting (uploaded to reference section):
http://made-by-bacteria.com/viewtopic.php?f=180&t=1431
In saying that, there is no guarantee it will work on all systems i'm using, so i'll test the theory and check it out over the next weeks. If it is correct, then no issues as the joystick rotation is working fine anyway.
So, a main update:
Master controller fully wired up
Cable - using a 15 wire plus proper shielding braid cable. 5 of the wires plus the braid are all grounded to the main base unit, to reduce interference. Cable is 4m long. Used an RCA jack and superglued the wire inside, also used a cable tie to stop it being pulled, and superglued that into place too. The wires to the JAMMA cart are very short again to reduce interference to a minimum.
Joysticks - version 3 installed, working fine, rotate well and stay in position when being used. Wires are short, about 2" long again to reduce interference. Superglued in place but could remove if needed to.
d-pad - from the plug'n'play - responsive and I think works better/feels better than a normal d-pad. Kept in place by one removable spacer and 2 screws.
Intellivision d-pad - tested but can't properly test until use the Intellivision controller section on it. Unit is easy to remove, kept in place with 2 screws, and pressure.
Keypad - that was from a butchered Atari 7800 Star Raiders add-on, removed the rubber tacts as didn't think they were responsive enough when pressed the buttons, so used clicky buttons with square tops instead. Works well. Keypad used for all systems for "Start", some systems like Colecovision and Intellivision need keypad use for gameplay; and will be handy also for Jaguar. Also, means I can make label inserts to be game specific to show on the N64 "C" buttons what they do in a game which is handy.
Case - was vacuum formed as per previous posts, is strong and sturdy. Holds well.
Shoulder buttons - 3 on each side, two on top on each side are for variable shoulder buttons, one rubber topped tact and other clicky, set so the clicky one can be pressed separately or when the other is depressed enough (mechanics of finger). Means I can also have say the large button for left shoulder, the rubber topped tact on the top shoulder for same, and clicky one for Z in N64, etc.
JAMMA interface cart - that as you may recall was severed into two, and rebuilt. Result works great, and doesn't cling onto the game board like a vice anymore - holds "normally".
NES cart - each one will hold each console system's controller. No ugly joysticks sticking out, and cart holds internal in the master controller; cart slips into place easily and securely, the original NES grips to insert and remove the game from the old NES Toaster console is used to do same from the master controller. There is enough space also by that tab to have a small switch to select for example rumble or memory card feature on N64.
Rumble pack - Only had space for a small one - the smaller one used in a GameCube controller. System has rumble feature!
Redesigned interface pins - Changed the pinout for the 50 pins around, and also included ability for Rumble too. Controller is fully functional.
Easy to disassemble - System held together by screws. Most of the internals are easy to remove, the joysticks and also keypad would need leverage though, however shouldn't need to make any changes to those, can if need to though.
More updates later! (full day of modding today).