Redifer wrote:It could be an interference issue, but I think the interference would be highly localized inside the console.
I was thinking more of outside interference like anything from routers to cells phones. This would help to explain why people are getting such varied instances of the vertical bar. That's not to say there can't be interference inside the console. But if that's the case, it doesn't explain the variance between consoles. But really, I have no firm beliefs on the cause(s) so I'm just throwing ideas out there.
And yes, Jam is Jamisonia. I might be too lazy to type out his full name, but I also love giving out nicknames.
Jamisonia wrote:Wrapped my Mini is three layers of Tin foil.
Three layers isn't awfully thick. This idea is really just a shot in the dark, but if you're up for it, perhaps you could try again with more layers? It's simple enough, anyways. If you're gonna, I would go to the dollar store to pick up some rolls though, so you don't have to drop the cash on it.
I was trying to narrow this down with the info we have on it so far. Jam said he tested all the caps in his console, so let's assume that there are no bad caps. There still could be other failing components, but which?
Let's say for right now that the problem is not caused by failing components. People have reported seeing this vertical bar back in the day, so surely that wouldn't be because of failing components. And even now, today, we're seeing it on a wide range of consoles. New and old, light use to heavily used. So let's put that aside for the time being.
Jam tried out two different power conditioners that (if I remember correctly) made absolutely no difference. So we can rule out dirty power from the outlets. Still going with that theory, the AC adapters themselves could some how be causing it. As I said before, not the easiest thing to test out given that the NTSC-U SNES has that proprietary plug. Still, it can be tested. The thing that sucks is that if Nintendo brand adapters cause the problem, you would need to compare to third party adapters. The problem is that third party adapters, especially ones made today for retro consoles, suck massively. I would like to test out a quality brand name adapter. But like I said, that would require you to modify something to use it. At least, on an NTSC-U console. Perhaps a SFC or PAL SNES user can try and test this out a little. I have a PAL SNES actually, but I have no idea if it has the vertical line problem. I haven't used it much, yet.
Then there's my shielding idea. It's a long shot, but I think it's easy enough to try out. Can't hurt. But if it isn't AC adapters or interference (say, outside sources) then what can it be INSIDE the console? Not including failing components, I mean. I've already suggested the video encoder. Like I said above, some one on the forum I linked suggested grabbing the RGB lines before the encoder to try and alleviate the vertical line issue. I think testing the encoder is the first step in determining "bad" components inside the SNES. Sure, there's a few components that sit between the encoder and the multi out, but I think mostly caps and resistors. Maybe a transistor, I'm not sure what the official Nintendo circuit is for S-Video and whatnot. There might be a cap and resistor on each of the RGB out lines.
And so I don't confuse any one, when I say test for bad components, I don't mean parts that have failed or are failing. I mean parts that act in a negative way, and have always acted this way since they were brand new.
I'm not sure what the Nintendo video encoders do with the RGB signals before it spits them back out, if anything at all. It probably does not do anything to them, it might just pass them right out (with out any kind of amplification or something that like). But that's not to say it doesn't some how dirty them. The guide I linked has links for datasheets, but I think one or two of the links might be dead. I haven't tried reading through any of the datasheets yet, but it would probably be useful information here.
Anyways, I think swapping the video encoders would be a good idea. It will be, at the very least, one thing we can rule out. From there we can work our way backwards, or try other ideas with more depth (like the AC adapters).
