Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
The number keyboard seems to be a little to the right, closer to the right analogue than to the left one. Wouldn't this cause any problems?
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
It is a small amount to the right of centre, by about 5mm, as originally when planning the case design I thought it prudent to have the keypad a little more to the right of centre as easier to get to the buttons on the keypad, any further over and as you see in the pic, it would have got in the way of the other buttons. In practice however, didn't make a lot of odds, easy to use anyway.
The two joysticks were placed independently of each other, the left one is a little more closer to the edge than the one on the right side; the original plan was to have the one on the left equal distance pro rata as the other joystick, however, changed that as the current position fits the positioning of my thumb correctly whereas if it were to the right a bit more, it wouldn't be in the ideal place. The other consideration for the joystick on the right is that it needs to be out of the way of the action buttons; after all, the right joystick isn't used much in systems compared to the left (main) one.
In systems that do not need a joystick, the two joystick holes will be mostly filled in by a top piece.
In other words, the choice was to make the system millimetre perfectly symmetrical or to try and make everything positioned in ideal places to use effectively, so I chose ergonomics in the design given the choice.
The two joysticks were placed independently of each other, the left one is a little more closer to the edge than the one on the right side; the original plan was to have the one on the left equal distance pro rata as the other joystick, however, changed that as the current position fits the positioning of my thumb correctly whereas if it were to the right a bit more, it wouldn't be in the ideal place. The other consideration for the joystick on the right is that it needs to be out of the way of the action buttons; after all, the right joystick isn't used much in systems compared to the left (main) one.
In systems that do not need a joystick, the two joystick holes will be mostly filled in by a top piece.
In other words, the choice was to make the system millimetre perfectly symmetrical or to try and make everything positioned in ideal places to use effectively, so I chose ergonomics in the design given the choice.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
Colour of case is wrong, which is what happens when I take a photo at night with the desk lamp on!
Anyway, wired up the N64 interface port (which will communicate data between the master controller and the various console controllers), after sanding the port down as much as could so the trace board can make maximum contact. Had to put a piece of 2mm thick perspex under the port to raise it to about 1mm higher than the closed case height.
So here's the view of the back of the case (showing the shoulder triggers too):
Wasn't easy to install accurately but managed it ok.
Need next to cut two quite large holes in the back of the master controller backing, big enough for a joystick cap to pass through ok; then, can start the internal wiring.
Anyway, wired up the N64 interface port (which will communicate data between the master controller and the various console controllers), after sanding the port down as much as could so the trace board can make maximum contact. Had to put a piece of 2mm thick perspex under the port to raise it to about 1mm higher than the closed case height.
So here's the view of the back of the case (showing the shoulder triggers too):
Wasn't easy to install accurately but managed it ok.
Need next to cut two quite large holes in the back of the master controller backing, big enough for a joystick cap to pass through ok; then, can start the internal wiring.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
Ok, after MANY many hours work, got the controller finished - wired up, closed (that wasn't straightforward initially). The holes behind the joystick front holes in the back of the case are there for a purpose, same reason as per the last controller. Next job will be to rig up the GameCube controller board into the system and test, initially on a regular GameCube console as it's more convenient. That way i'll know if there's interference on the lines or not, if things work fine and everything is wired up properly - so far, i've not been able to test much on this controller at all.
There is a chance of interference on the lines either from the mass of wiring around the interface port, or from the magnet; I think i'll be ok, but won't know until testing.
Anyway, insides - the strip of plastic on the right side has a strong magnet underneath from an old computer hard disk.
Completed controller, closed up, etc.
There is a chance of interference on the lines either from the mass of wiring around the interface port, or from the magnet; I think i'll be ok, but won't know until testing.
Anyway, insides - the strip of plastic on the right side has a strong magnet underneath from an old computer hard disk.
Completed controller, closed up, etc.
I am the Bacman
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thelolotov
- 32-bit
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- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2010 3:17 pm
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
I always forget how many wires are involved in this. O.obacteria wrote:Ok, after MANY many hours work, got the controller finished - wired up, closed (that wasn't straightforward initially). The holes behind the joystick front holes in the back of the case are there for a purpose, same reason as per the last controller. Next job will be to rig up the GameCube controller board into the system and test, initially on a regular GameCube console as it's more convenient. That way i'll know if there's interference on the lines or not, if things work fine and everything is wired up properly - so far, i've not been able to test much on this controller at all.
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
The N64 port has 50 pins with normally 2 removed, so after inserting two spare pins from another port, there are 50 pins in this interface, which is exactly enough. Of these 50, there are 12 groundings to reduce interference on the lines.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
Not done much for the last days, had flu which knocked me out for a couple of days, if I wasn't overheating and streaming with sweat I was shivering to max; and aching, etc; starting to feel better today.
So, in this pic the controller is glued into place and the top just closes ok (only have 8mm tall to play with inside there), wired up the old cut-up N64 game for the traces and hot glued it into place, and it is interfacing with the master controller, tested it via the groundings and one of the action buttons, seems ok. Had to solder to the traces above the actual traces by sanding off the green coating above the copper traces.
Experimented with a piece of steel on the top of the plastic, and the magnet inside the master controller has slight pull, so cut thorough part of the plastic to see if that made a difference, it did, but not much; so instead cut out a circle from the steel, and spray painted it, as it will be mounted underneath; there is certainly plenty of magnetism there!
The wires above the traces board will be wired to the controller, as next job.
The slight paint cracks in the master controller will be fixed once I know the system works fine, ie after getting the GameCube controller working fully; the black line will also be joined correctly too.
So, in this pic the controller is glued into place and the top just closes ok (only have 8mm tall to play with inside there), wired up the old cut-up N64 game for the traces and hot glued it into place, and it is interfacing with the master controller, tested it via the groundings and one of the action buttons, seems ok. Had to solder to the traces above the actual traces by sanding off the green coating above the copper traces.
Experimented with a piece of steel on the top of the plastic, and the magnet inside the master controller has slight pull, so cut thorough part of the plastic to see if that made a difference, it did, but not much; so instead cut out a circle from the steel, and spray painted it, as it will be mounted underneath; there is certainly plenty of magnetism there!
The wires above the traces board will be wired to the controller, as next job.
The slight paint cracks in the master controller will be fixed once I know the system works fine, ie after getting the GameCube controller working fully; the black line will also be joined correctly too.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
YAY, SUCCESS!
Just tried the GameCube section in my master controller and it all seems to work fine; I just got the right analogue trigger connections wired the wrong way around, that's all (it was a guess as to which way round to wire it anyway). No interference on the lines, ie no joystick issues. Tested left trigger and left shoulder button, main joystick, A, B, start buttons; will fix the right analogue trigger, then also test Z, X and Y. Then, need to make surrounds for the joystick sections and set about mounting them through the case as intended.
No idea, just a guess, but probably spent the best part of 80-90 hours on the master controller and about 8-10 hours so far on the GameCube controller section alone - so in other words, it'll be about 11-13 hours work to make a controller section (and i'll have around 20 to make!)! That's a lot of work. Taking into account this and the consoles yet to work on, it'll probably take about another 1200-1400 hours before the project is complete, hence why I quoted about two years to build!
Just tried the GameCube section in my master controller and it all seems to work fine; I just got the right analogue trigger connections wired the wrong way around, that's all (it was a guess as to which way round to wire it anyway). No interference on the lines, ie no joystick issues. Tested left trigger and left shoulder button, main joystick, A, B, start buttons; will fix the right analogue trigger, then also test Z, X and Y. Then, need to make surrounds for the joystick sections and set about mounting them through the case as intended.
No idea, just a guess, but probably spent the best part of 80-90 hours on the master controller and about 8-10 hours so far on the GameCube controller section alone - so in other words, it'll be about 11-13 hours work to make a controller section (and i'll have around 20 to make!)! That's a lot of work. Taking into account this and the consoles yet to work on, it'll probably take about another 1200-1400 hours before the project is complete, hence why I quoted about two years to build!
I am the Bacman
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thelolotov
- 32-bit
- Posts: 298
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2010 3:17 pm
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
Now that's some dedication right there.bacteria wrote:YAY, SUCCESS!
Just tried the GameCube section in my master controller and it all seems to work fine; I just got the right analogue trigger connections wired the wrong way around, that's all (it was a guess as to which way round to wire it anyway). No interference on the lines, ie no joystick issues. Tested left trigger and left shoulder button, main joystick, A, B, start buttons; will fix the right analogue trigger, then also test Z, X and Y. Then, need to make surrounds for the joystick sections and set about mounting them through the case as intended.
No idea, just a guess, but probably spent the best part of 80-90 hours on the master controller and about 8-10 hours so far on the GameCube controller section alone - so in other words, it'll be about 11-13 hours work to make a controller section (and i'll have around 20 to make!)! That's a lot of work. Taking into account this and the consoles yet to work on, it'll probably take about another 1200-1400 hours before the project is complete, hence why I quoted about two years to build!
Of course, you've disassembled a bunch of systems already, if you stopped, there's probably be a lot of backlash, XD.
Re: Bacteria's project: Alpha Omega
Nope, i'll be doing this project to the end, i'm dedicated to my hobby! 
Hit one problem though...
Rumble working fine and great, and Z and start, left analogue trigger works great (I had wondered as used the DreamCast pot not GameCube one, which is longer); turns out my wiring before was totally perfect, I have a problem though that the right analogue and right shoulder don't work at all.
The wiring is fine, as although on these connections i'm not getting a continuity beep I am getting a reading of around 1998 (whatever that means) - my concern was a faulty set of connections on the interface cart, but that isn't the case as I would get a static "1" on the multimeter, so proves connections are fine. There is one difference however, about 3" of wire to the controller and about 4" to the right trigger button. I can do nothing about that, I used thicker gauge wiring (rated 1.5 amps) for all wiring rather than general purpose i'd use for cart relocation (0.5 amp) because it is better at not suffering from interference on the lines, as I discovered when installing the GameBoy Advance add-on to the system.
What this means is simple I have to use grounding cable for these connections and hope that that reduces the interference enough. The reason the left works is because the wires are shorter than to the right triggers. The other option is to double up the wires concerned to increase the strength in the lines or to use a thick 6 amp wire. I'll try this tactic first as it's the easiest option.
Ok, that's a job for tomorrow. Everything else, so far, appears to be working fine.
Hit one problem though...
Rumble working fine and great, and Z and start, left analogue trigger works great (I had wondered as used the DreamCast pot not GameCube one, which is longer); turns out my wiring before was totally perfect, I have a problem though that the right analogue and right shoulder don't work at all.
The wiring is fine, as although on these connections i'm not getting a continuity beep I am getting a reading of around 1998 (whatever that means) - my concern was a faulty set of connections on the interface cart, but that isn't the case as I would get a static "1" on the multimeter, so proves connections are fine. There is one difference however, about 3" of wire to the controller and about 4" to the right trigger button. I can do nothing about that, I used thicker gauge wiring (rated 1.5 amps) for all wiring rather than general purpose i'd use for cart relocation (0.5 amp) because it is better at not suffering from interference on the lines, as I discovered when installing the GameBoy Advance add-on to the system.
What this means is simple I have to use grounding cable for these connections and hope that that reduces the interference enough. The reason the left works is because the wires are shorter than to the right triggers. The other option is to double up the wires concerned to increase the strength in the lines or to use a thick 6 amp wire. I'll try this tactic first as it's the easiest option.
Ok, that's a job for tomorrow. Everything else, so far, appears to be working fine.
I am the Bacman