Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"

[bacteria]

Different controllers wire the pots differently (eg the VCC and ground) so going to have to have each connection to each pot separate. Orientation might also be an issue, so won't know if need to allow 12 wires per joystick or 9; plus shoulder buttons until I know the orientation of all the joysticks in the console controllers. Going to be a lot of wiring for sure.

[CRTGAMER]

With the diodes out for analogs, how are you going to isolate-switch those on various systems?
A lotta wires to toggle or relay switch. Maybe a connect plug like my Zaxxon mod?

[bacteria]

I need to know what the issues are, if any, before working to solution, so need to complete these systems first and test.

[bacteria]

Small but important updates:

Used a cable from an old controller, 1/3 of it, and wired from the GameCube controller to the joystick; works perfectly, tried on Bomberman Generation. There is grounding inside the cable of course, and this is what allows far longer lengths of cable to be used without data loss or interference on the lines. I'm going to use a lot of old controllers for their cables to wire all systems together to one focal point and then outwards towards a long cable to my controller (about 2-3 metres).

I have tried various diodes on the video line from the console board to the television, Rectifier Diodes, Zener Diodes and High Speed Signal diodes - all suck for the video line - you get a thin line scrolling on the television, however these work perfectly: "1N5817 Schottky diode 20 volt 1 amp". Many thanks to Scooby (he's on my forum) who suggested the High Speed and the Schottky diodes - i'll test them on the audio lines too, and also grounding; once i'ts confirmed ok on these, i'll buy another 100 or so of these diodes for the A/V lines on all the consoles and also the button presses too.

Should get some time over the next days for more testing, complete the controller work and then can do the video for the GameCube section of the project; after all, the GameCube and also GBA Player work great.

[bacteria]

Ok, been working on the skeleton of the controller as you'll see on the pics, and testing on two specific games, Bomberman Generation and also Battalion Wars on GameCube. Wired up 2/3 of the GC controller using the cable it uses normally, as the cable is shielded so ideal for running long lengths you can't achieve with normal unshielded wires. Wired up the shoulder buttons from a modded controller part too. As you see in the pic, there is a lot of parts on my workdesk. Need to wire up the rest of the controller, however, have tested the main joystick, shoulder buttons (they are analogue after all), A, B and Start. Need to wire up the d-pad, rumble pack and X and Y buttons.

Interestingly, the diodes don't like the audio lines, get crackly if using a Schotty diode (as using on the video line fine) and get no sound at all if use other diodes. More testing to do yet!

You get a feel for the controller i'm building; its just a bit bigger than a normal controller, will end up probably a bit smaller than an Xbox controller I guess; looks bad at the moment however the issue is to get everything working on it before I make a mould for the controller, and make it look georgeous. The top will be flat, that way I can make printed card overlays to be game or console specific - personalised each game...

[bacteria]

Ok, fortunately I have 7 PS2 controllers (ie they say "Playstation" not "PSone") so can remove the cables off 6 of them.

Half way done...

Hacked N64 game cart (crappy soccer game), cut the board, wired up three of the PS2 controller wires (8 per cable plus shielding), soldered the shielding to the N64 game cart shielding too.





I had intended to make the cart shorter, however keeping the cart casing as original, it would be easier to get inside again for any repairs if needed, also easier to insert and remove from main console system as larger to hold, so i'll keep it as it is, just make holes in the back for the cables to poke out of.

I figured why make the GameCube video now (could make it now, system works) when I need to show the system working via external controller anyway, so no logic just wiring things up to dismantle again - if I wire up the master controller and wire up the GameCube to the controller port; job done, and more representative of what i'm doing, especially as I intend to have my controller working nearly six and a half feet away from the console, about eight feet from the controllers inside the console base unit. (hence why i'm using suitable cabling).

BTW - you may have noticed, the N64 game cart is 50 pins, although the game cart is 48 pins, so I inserted two pins from a different N64 cart port to make it 50, so I can have a grounding next to the pin for the rumble motor.

I have 48 wires in all the cables, in effect actually 49 as the shielding is all grounded. Just enough for what I need!

[CRTGAMER]

Great idea using a game cart instead of IDE cable connection. Easier to grapple.
So this is to add controllers to make the portable a four player unit?

[bacteria]

Nope, this is only a single player system. Due to the nature of the controller, it needs 45 separate wires in total, and the wires need to be shielded... as described as follows:


Ok, more updates - cut up the wires from 6 PS2 controllers and wired into a hacked N64 game cart. As you see, it closes easily. I now need to decide which pin does what, and wire the wires from the old game cart into the system controller.





This is the one part of the project i'm not keen on - having so many cables. It's necessary though. BTW - I have 49 contacts in the game cart, one of the wires had 9 wires inside instead of 8.

Think about it - 12 for keypad, 4 for action buttons, 4 for d-pad, 6 for left joystick, 6 or right joystick, 3 for left analogue shoulder, 3 for right analogue shoulder, 4 for regular shoulder buttons, 2 for rumble pack, 1 for ground. Add all that together and you get 45 connections. I have 4 left as spares, which I might have to assign for something else.

Using these PS2 wires looks like a mound of cables, however the cables are very flexible, and long. If I make the cables as one, the result might be a rather thick and rigid cable, keeping them separate keeps them flexible. I might however experiment later with some thin fabric to have the cables all together but loose enough not to get too rigid.

That's the thing with this project, nothing simple!

[CRTGAMER]

Oh, okay. But why then a connector instead of permanent hardwire in? Also wondering about solution of isolating analog pots of sticks and triggers for different systems. I initially thought that's what this connect cart might be.

[bacteria]

The base unit which will be in the lounge, will sit near my large television, if the controller is wired in permantly, it will look ugly; also, the cable to the controller is just over 6 feet, not long enough from the location to my sofa, which means lifting the console unit to the floor.

In regards to what goes where, especially regards the analogue pots, I will only work out by trial and error and maybe also using different 1st and 3rd party controllers in the first place to give greater compatability.