Well, I got my modchip today. Very speedy delivery, thanks. I don't have access to soldering things, but I read a few commends that say you can just wedge the wires in there. I have a model II 32 pin model by the way, so it's the easiest. I did the A to B method on the one wire instead of putting it on pin 14. Although, I first want to make sure I did this right. The A to B method doesn't use the 32 pin at all. You basically just loop the wire around in a circle, and stick it in the little hole marked "B" right next to it on the mod chip, is that right?
Now, I tried putting in one of my regular Saturn games (Christmas NiGHTS), and it wouldn't play. It didn't seem to recognize it as a game, but as a music CD. I could play the tracks. I tried a burned game (Burning Rangers) that I made, and when I put it in, it didn't run either. However, when I tried to play the music a voice said that "track 1 contains game data, and you shouldn't play it in a cd player." So, does it recognize the burned disk as a game? Why won't it play?
I was wondering if I have to play around with the Saturn configurations to get it to work. If not, then I'll have to take it someplace to get soldered properly, I guess. I don't have the tools to do it myself, and I'd rather not spend more money on a gun that I'll only use twice.
Saturn Modchip installation help! All finished!!!
Saturn Modchip installation help! All finished!!!
Last edited by bk13 on Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:09 am, edited 3 times in total.
if it's not getting to the sega screen then it isn't getting around the copy protection.. the fact that you can't play a regular game also points to the chip not being installed correctly. I would double check the looped wire and the power wire.
Did you just stick the wire on there? I think you may want to use tape or (if you're very careful) maybe some hot glue. also, the red wire (closest to the edge of the chip) needs to be touching the metal power pin, usually 2nd from the top.
If you didn't secure the wires, then it would be very easy for the chip to not be connected and fail to work...
Did you just stick the wire on there? I think you may want to use tape or (if you're very careful) maybe some hot glue. also, the red wire (closest to the edge of the chip) needs to be touching the metal power pin, usually 2nd from the top.
If you didn't secure the wires, then it would be very easy for the chip to not be connected and fail to work...
Well, I got my soldering iron and stuff today, and I tried it out. It's really hard.... I hope I didn't screw anything up. Is there a way to get the solder off once you put it on?
Anyway, I did the first one, the power red wire. I'm a little confused. The solder, the metal stuff that melts on the tip of the iron, is that used to connect the two bits. Let me explain better. Should the wires from the chip be physically touching the metal part (for the power wire, the second box down from the back according to the instructions). Or, should the solder be applied, and then the wires be put on top?
I also did the A to B method for the other wire, and I accidentally got some solder in between the A and the B. What I'm asking is does the solder carry the charge of the wire? Or is it just like super strong glue, and the wires have to physically touch the piece?
Anyway, I did the first one, the power red wire. I'm a little confused. The solder, the metal stuff that melts on the tip of the iron, is that used to connect the two bits. Let me explain better. Should the wires from the chip be physically touching the metal part (for the power wire, the second box down from the back according to the instructions). Or, should the solder be applied, and then the wires be put on top?
I also did the A to B method for the other wire, and I accidentally got some solder in between the A and the B. What I'm asking is does the solder carry the charge of the wire? Or is it just like super strong glue, and the wires have to physically touch the piece?
The solder carries the current, so not only does it bond, but it transfers the power or whatever. (I'm not very scientifically educated)
But it kinda serves as a bridge between two points. From your descriptions, it sounds like you're doing ok.
As for removing it, you just have to heat it up enough so it's rather liquid and then try to brush or scrape it up off the surface without smearing it...
But it kinda serves as a bridge between two points. From your descriptions, it sounds like you're doing ok.
As for removing it, you just have to heat it up enough so it's rather liquid and then try to brush or scrape it up off the surface without smearing it...
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You can also just have a solid line of solder between the two points.bk13 wrote:All right. Well I did it the first time, the A to B method (which is basically looping the wire from where it starts "A" and then soldering it right next to where it started "B." Right? When I just tried it, there was no start up animation for the Saturn, and the disk didn't spin.
but it's also worth mentioning that the A+B method isn't guaranteed to work all the time.
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I see. I'm just worried that I'll mess up the soldering putting it on the 14th pin of the chip. I remember seeing another site that had different topics that troubleshooted the problem. For example if the disk doesn't spin, this must be wrong. If the Saturn opening animation doesn't play, this must be wrong. I wish I could find it. Do you know what I'm talking about?
Also, in case this doesn't work again, what's the best way to solder that 14th pin? I read that it's best to isolate it with just a little cardboard on each side.
EDIT: Found it.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa/Raluminat/troubleshoot.html
From that, this problem seems to apply to me.
No solder bridge:
Boot up animation
Two green cubes at the CD player screen
CD rotates
Displays "checking disc format"
Will then only play audio tracks of CD-Rs and originals
What's that mean? Bridge?
Also, in case this doesn't work again, what's the best way to solder that 14th pin? I read that it's best to isolate it with just a little cardboard on each side.
EDIT: Found it.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa/Raluminat/troubleshoot.html
From that, this problem seems to apply to me.
No solder bridge:
Boot up animation
Two green cubes at the CD player screen
CD rotates
Displays "checking disc format"
Will then only play audio tracks of CD-Rs and originals
What's that mean? Bridge?
A bridge is when you connect two points with pure solder.bk13 wrote:I see. I'm just worried that I'll mess up the soldering putting it on the 14th pin of the chip. I remember seeing another site that had different topics that troubleshooted the problem. For example if the disk doesn't spin, this must be wrong. If the Saturn opening animation doesn't play, this must be wrong. I wish I could find it. Do you know what I'm talking about?
Also, in case this doesn't work again, what's the best way to solder that 14th pin? I read that it's best to isolate it with just a little cardboard on each side.
EDIT: Found it.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa/Raluminat/troubleshoot.html
From that, this problem seems to apply to me.
No solder bridge:
Boot up animation
Two green cubes at the CD player screen
CD rotates
Displays "checking disc format"
Will then only play audio tracks of CD-Rs and originals
What's that mean? Bridge?
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