reproduction cart two! more tidy!

[Wobble The Hutt]

finished my second reproduction cart today. wiring job is MUCH cleaner. see it at the link below! its also a copy of secret of mana 2. donor cart was NHL 96. just needs a label.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v328/ ... M2E_V2.jpg

[bartre]

good job!
just got two things for you:
1. are you sure it'll fit in the case? in general, you want to wire to the back side of the board for the sake of space.
2. where did you get that battery holder? the only ones i can find have the pins too far apart for an snes cart

[Wobble The Hutt]

it fits fine, the cart sits chips down twards the back.

there are jumper wires running underneath rom 4 from cut pins on the chip to the correct holes allowing me to just strait pipe the other 3 chips directly too it with out a bunch of wires going everywhere.

the battery holder i grabbed off an old mainboard. its pins werer also spaced a bit wide. Metal bends

[Niode]

What kind of solder are you using? It looks pretty bad. That solder will oxidise and corrode pretty quickly and while it might work now, it won't work for long. A good solder joint will look like a nice flat matte silver. Shiny = bad and grainy/pitted = bad also.

[Hobie-wan]

What kind of solder are you using? It looks pretty bad. That solder will oxidise and corrode pretty quickly and while it might work now, it won't work for long. A good solder joint will look like a nice flat matte silver. Shiny = bad and grainy/pitted = bad also.

Solder joints that are all matte and rough looking were disturbed while they cooled. All the proper joints I've done are shiny when complete. The ones in this video are as well and he specifically mentions they should be shiny unless you're using lead free solder.

[Wobble The Hutt]

i dunno its old and i stole it from my dead grandfathers spot when he died it flows well and has worked well for me some of the wires might look a lil beat up because i had to desolder the entire stack because romchip 2 was bad. so in sumary it has lots of lead in it probably and should be shiny. and yeah i was under the impression not shiny was bad. also the yellow stuff is leftover flux from the core of the solder.

[jeffro11]

It all depends on what type of solder your using. Typically a super super dull solder joint is bad if your using a high content lead. On the flip side if your joints are semi dull and your using a semi leaded solder, its a good joint. If you have specs in it, it means you didn't clean your tip. If your joints are brown and yellow, then you simply can't solder and should put the iron down.

I will say you should reflow the joints, they look pitted which is a bad thing.

[Niode]

What kind of solder are you using? It looks pretty bad. That solder will oxidise and corrode pretty quickly and while it might work now, it won't work for long. A good solder joint will look like a nice flat matte silver. Shiny = bad and grainy/pitted = bad also.

Solder joints that are all matte and rough looking were disturbed while they cooled. All the proper joints I've done are shiny when complete. The ones in this video are as well and he specifically mentions they should be shiny unless you're using lead free solder.

I use lead-free. After I move on wednesday I'll show you what a proper solder joint with unleaded solder looks like.