17DaysOlderThanNES wrote:MentalMan wrote:
I once had my 360 die on me, the ANA chip set sail and gave me one ring. After some basic fixing trys, it gave me 3 rings right away when turning it on. Not good, but I already knew it wouldnt work, because the board needed a reflow. And thus I put the board into the good old oven, let it reflow, let it cool down again and put it back together with a lot of tiny mods for more airflow. As well as the aforementioned, nasty 12v.
You did WHAT? You used a convection oven to reflow solder!? Either you just hit the XBOX 360 blind luck jackpot, or I'm misunderstanding you here. If you actually heated the motherboard hot enough to reflow the solder, you would've ruined every chip and capacitor in the system. And for those saying "then how do they solder them to the board in the first place!?" and the answer is: they melt the solder and apply it to the board very quickly, before the heat can travel up the pins and heat the chip/capacitor.
Haha, yes I know it sounds crazy, downright insane. But, if done carefully it actually works. Keep in mind, I insulated and protected
everything from the board, except the 3 target chips. Cpu, Gpu and the ANA chip all exposed to the heat flow. For a cheap, home made "reballing" if you will. Also, the oven is only preheated carefully, and then turned OFF. (ca. 230°) There is no direct heat, except what has accumulated in the oven. I put the board in, wrapped up and insulated, and left it in for I think 10-15 minutes.
Then carefully and slowly put it back out, on top of the oven, and didnt touch it for another hour. Until very carefully unpacking it from the 100% cotton shirts and a bit of aluminium foil to protect more. (Yup, again, that might sound crazy but it did not do any harm.)
I then after unwrapping it carefully checked every cap, chips, plastic parts in general and it looked 100% fine. And it smelt good
I can fully understand how this idea sounds insane, and it should only be considered as a last resort. (And dont worry, even after letting it cool I used protective glasses because of the chance some cap blows up.)
17DaysOlderThanNES wrote:MentalMan wrote:
What was also very important is replacing the shitty thermal paste from the factory with some silver compound thermal paste. Ever since I did that, the unit runs as well as before, or even better. The case barely gets warm, shovels out a lot of hot air concentrated. Cpu and Gpu flow have each their own and dont share it like in the ususal setup.
The shitty thermal paste thing is true (always use Arctic Silver 5, never use that shitty stuff most RROD kits come with). Futhermore, they often use too much or too little. When replacing it, ALWAYS remove EVERY SINGLE BIT from EVERYWHERE on the chip via toothpicks (to scrape off the bulk) and then fine cleaning with alcohol+q-tips. When applying, only put a grain of rice-sized stripe (half a grain for the smallest chip) and let the pressure of the heat sink spread it out (don't rub it around with your finger). Avoid any goo-gone style cleaners as they can prevent proper adherence of the thermal paste.
Very good advice and fully agreed. I spend over an hour whiping both chips as shiny as huminly possible (alcohol), and remove any residue. And I just
love spreading on thermal paste as best as possible. Dont know what it is about it, it's just great.
Especially agreed on arctic silver 5. Never use any of the other garbage.
17DaysOlderThanNES wrote:MentalMan wrote:
I just wish I could get myself to change fan speed on the CPU side down to 5v or something like that. The CPU is not the problem, it dosnt get as hot. Its the GPU that gets fryed, especially with the (really hot) DVD drive right on top of it.
You've got it backwards, it's the GPU that makes the DVD drive toast. In fact, many (most?) DVD drive failures are actually caused by the drive spindle seizing from getting so hot from the GPU. Putting the DVD drive above the GPU is the dumbest thing I have ever seen on so many levels. Not only did it mean the GPU didn't get a big enough heat sink (should be as big as the CPU one), it also acts like an electric range constantly cooking the DVD drive. I'm literally in disbelief at how incompetent Microsoft engineers are. They should all be shot.
Heh, that is indeed the biggest incompetence in hardware engineering I have seen myself as well. And even if there was some sane thought involved, it seems like they just said fuck it, do it like that. And in result, the system counter acts itself and kills each and every important part of it. Kinda like a suicide machine, really.
Btw GPU heatsink, I once saw a guy putting a CPU 360 heatsink from a broken unit, on top of the GPU. The dvd drive obviously had to be put on the outside, and that was actually quite a nice idea if you dont care about the messyness of it all. But of course, only a tiny percentage wants to put up with that, and it dosnt change shit about the future.
17DaysOlderThanNES wrote:MentalMan wrote:
So yeah, just thought i'd share that story. And as niode mentioned, cutting a trace on the motherboard permanently is a dirty hack and wont help you in the long run.
If the temp sensor is really boned, there's no other option. No matter what you do, it will not boot, it will always 2 light because it will always think it's overheated. Many 2 lights that happen after 3 light RROD fix are caused by people that did the repair wrong, but only in very rare instances is the CPU heatsink simply detached or dirty enough that it is actually overheating and not a dead sensor. As I stated in my post above, cutting the temp sensor doesn't necessarily spell death as long as you either mod the fans to run fast all the time or get a standalone cooler and remember to switch it on.
Oh I get it! I missunderstood this part, in that case it does make a lot of sense, a good bypass. And with the fan mod/third party equipment, that's perfectly fine.