Oh damn I didn't post in here before you got it resurfaced.
DO NOT RESURFACE DC GAMES!
Seriously, don't in future, it completely breaks them for some reason. I've seen people do it before and it always ends in a coaster.
DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
Re: DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
Marurun wrote:Don’t mind-shart your pants, guys
- bladerunner
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Re: DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
Duly noted.Niode wrote:Oh damn I didn't post in here before you got it resurfaced.
DO NOT RESURFACE DC GAMES!
Seriously, don't in future, it completely breaks them for some reason. I've seen people do it before and it always ends in a coaster.
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Re: DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
You know, now I think about it, that's what happened with the SF III third strike I ended up with that only sometimes worked. It wouldn't boot at all after resurfacing. Though it had a stupid Blockbuster disc skin on it with the bimetal strip off to one side which made it really unbalanced, so I blamed that at the time. Blargh that sucks. Home your minty fresh copy cooperates.
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Re: DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
I had 10 of my DC games resurfaced and all of them work. I get my resurfacing done at my local Play-n-Trades. Maybe its the machine that some store use that mess up the DC games. I wouldn't use a skip doctor on my games.
The last games I had resurfaced were Chu Chu Rocket and Last Blade 2. Last Blade 2 had a deep cut on it and now it plays fine. Chu Chu Rocket didn't have really any scratches but I took it back to the store I bought it, because it didn't work. They resurfaced it there and now it works.
The last games I had resurfaced were Chu Chu Rocket and Last Blade 2. Last Blade 2 had a deep cut on it and now it plays fine. Chu Chu Rocket didn't have really any scratches but I took it back to the store I bought it, because it didn't work. They resurfaced it there and now it works.
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Re: DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
Just got my sealed copy of Sonic Adventure and it works like a charm, and is obviously in mint shape. Not bad.
Re: DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
Congrats, get those coins!bladerunner wrote:Just got my sealed copy of Sonic Adventure and it works like a charm, and is obviously in mint shape. Not bad.
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Re: DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
Interesting, every single person I know that got their discs resurfaced to see if it helped their DC's work had them all return as a coaster.pepharytheworm wrote:I had 10 of my DC games resurfaced and all of them work. I get my resurfacing done at my local Play-n-Trades. Maybe its the machine that some store use that mess up the DC games. I wouldn't use a skip doctor on my games.
The last games I had resurfaced were Chu Chu Rocket and Last Blade 2. Last Blade 2 had a deep cut on it and now it plays fine. Chu Chu Rocket didn't have really any scratches but I took it back to the store I bought it, because it didn't work. They resurfaced it there and now it works.
Marurun wrote:Don’t mind-shart your pants, guys
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Re: DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
Yeah, I had a fairly scratched copy of Skies of Arcadia that I had resurfaced, and it works great. The issue with the SA disc was that the guy who resurfaced it went to town on it. I should have known as he spent 5 minutes or more on it. Oh well.Niode wrote:Interesting, every single person I know that got their discs resurfaced to see if it helped their DC's work had them all return as a coaster.
And pephary, don't worry about the game. I ended getting a game in exchange for the coaster due to the fact that the guy ruined the disc, and now I have a working copy of SA. So everyone is happy.
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Re: DC: Issues w/ Sonic Adventure
This is a pretty long thread so sorry if I repeat anything that's already said
I had a copy (still do) of Jet Grind Radio that just had one semi-deep scratch and would only load to the title screen and then try to load indefinitely but never successfully start. I had to have it resurfaced with the coarse sanding pad twice (and then down through the finer pads, always make sure to use them in order from coarsest to finest, I'm talking about the professional resurfacers BTW) before it would read properly.
If that's not the case, there are other things besides the laser that could be the problem. Is the laser track/gear assembly clean? make sure to blow all of that out with canned air. Another thing people tend to overlook is the rubber ring on the spindle. It's very thin and if there is even a little bit of dust/dirt it can slip. Clean the spindle as best as you can with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip to make sure the disc doesn't slip. Make sure to press the disc all the way flat so it makes good contact with the rubber ring. Honestly, I think more DCs have read problems from disc slippage than laser issues. Give the laser lense another clean as well, use rubbing alcohol on a q-tip and make sure to swap it well with the dry side to remove the dirt. Just dabbing it with the wet side won't do anything.
I would avoid messing with the potentiometers (the screws you were talking about). IMO, pots should never be messed with unless you are actually changing the laser. Most laser issues are related to dirt or lubrication issues, not the resistance value of the potentiometer.
Finally, if you just want to burn a backup, download the latest trial of DiskJuggler and double click the .cdi and hit "burn." You don't need to touch any settings in DiskJuggler.
edit: after reading a few more posts, I feel the need to correct the statement that resurfacing DC games breaks them. NOT TRUE. I used to do console repair at Play N Trade and resurfaced most of the games I bought, including DC, and they work without a hitch. Resurfacing is very much an art and takes someone that knows what they're doing. For maximum smoothness: 10 seconds coarse, 10 seconds fine, 2-4 minutes #2 pad, 2-4 minutes #1 pad, in that order. If they don't do it in the right order or don't use the right ratio of times, it will leave scratches that keep it from playing. When sanding, you have to step down from coarsest to finest grit in small intervals to make a smooth finish, otherwise you'll just make a mess.
I had a copy (still do) of Jet Grind Radio that just had one semi-deep scratch and would only load to the title screen and then try to load indefinitely but never successfully start. I had to have it resurfaced with the coarse sanding pad twice (and then down through the finer pads, always make sure to use them in order from coarsest to finest, I'm talking about the professional resurfacers BTW) before it would read properly.
If that's not the case, there are other things besides the laser that could be the problem. Is the laser track/gear assembly clean? make sure to blow all of that out with canned air. Another thing people tend to overlook is the rubber ring on the spindle. It's very thin and if there is even a little bit of dust/dirt it can slip. Clean the spindle as best as you can with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip to make sure the disc doesn't slip. Make sure to press the disc all the way flat so it makes good contact with the rubber ring. Honestly, I think more DCs have read problems from disc slippage than laser issues. Give the laser lense another clean as well, use rubbing alcohol on a q-tip and make sure to swap it well with the dry side to remove the dirt. Just dabbing it with the wet side won't do anything.
I would avoid messing with the potentiometers (the screws you were talking about). IMO, pots should never be messed with unless you are actually changing the laser. Most laser issues are related to dirt or lubrication issues, not the resistance value of the potentiometer.
Finally, if you just want to burn a backup, download the latest trial of DiskJuggler and double click the .cdi and hit "burn." You don't need to touch any settings in DiskJuggler.
edit: after reading a few more posts, I feel the need to correct the statement that resurfacing DC games breaks them. NOT TRUE. I used to do console repair at Play N Trade and resurfaced most of the games I bought, including DC, and they work without a hitch. Resurfacing is very much an art and takes someone that knows what they're doing. For maximum smoothness: 10 seconds coarse, 10 seconds fine, 2-4 minutes #2 pad, 2-4 minutes #1 pad, in that order. If they don't do it in the right order or don't use the right ratio of times, it will leave scratches that keep it from playing. When sanding, you have to step down from coarsest to finest grit in small intervals to make a smooth finish, otherwise you'll just make a mess.