OK, doesn't look too bad. I'm not sure why that metal is cut, but I don't think it'll matter much. It's still making contact and that's all that matters. solder will take to the metal tabs, but not the battery. If you're concerned with the cut metal, you could add a little solder to it, but I don't think it matters. As long as it isn't cut all the way through.
OK, I don't know what I was smoking when i typed my last post. There's at least one 5v line going to the SRAM, which means it needs a resistor. I think that one on the side, going vertically, is connected to that corner pin on the SRAM (that's what it looks like in the pic, I don't have a SNES PCB in front of me to confirm). I would definitely replace both rusted resistors.
And I can't really make out the solder job on the battery. I would re-do those solder joints, though.
SNES Game Won't Save, Battery Is New
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darthmunky
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Re: SNES Game Won't Save, Battery Is New
I replaced the resistor on the top and it still didn't save so i re-soldered the battery, still nothing. Is the + side of the battery supposed to be on the top?
Re: SNES Game Won't Save, Battery Is New
I can never recall from memory, but I remember checking if the battery in the picture was positioned correctly, and I remember that it was correct. You should try replacing the other resistor too, if just for the hell of it.
If the resistors are new, the battery is new, everything appears to be soldered correctly, and there are no other visible problems... then the SRAM might be bad. If that IS the case, it's not that bad. It's something like a $5 part.
If you have the time and the required tools, you could pull an SRAM off a known working cart and put it on this cart. This way you can rule it out (or in) as the problem. You can always switch it back, I'm just suggesting to do this to figure out what's wrong. But if you do, just make sure the SRAM your gonna use is the same size as what's on the game (because if you use a smaller size, the game wont save).
edit: Oh, I keep forgetting to ask, can you read what's printed on the top of the battery? It should be CR2032. Maybe some dumb ass put the wrong type of battery in there.
If the resistors are new, the battery is new, everything appears to be soldered correctly, and there are no other visible problems... then the SRAM might be bad. If that IS the case, it's not that bad. It's something like a $5 part.
If you have the time and the required tools, you could pull an SRAM off a known working cart and put it on this cart. This way you can rule it out (or in) as the problem. You can always switch it back, I'm just suggesting to do this to figure out what's wrong. But if you do, just make sure the SRAM your gonna use is the same size as what's on the game (because if you use a smaller size, the game wont save).
edit: Oh, I keep forgetting to ask, can you read what's printed on the top of the battery? It should be CR2032. Maybe some dumb ass put the wrong type of battery in there.
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Re: SNES Game Won't Save, Battery Is New
That's AWYE? Harvest Moon? That would be helpful so someone can check battery orientation.
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darthmunky
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Re: SNES Game Won't Save, Battery Is New
What does that mean?Hobie-wan wrote:That's AWYE?
Yep, it's Harvest Moon. How did you know that?Hobie-wan wrote:Harvest Moon?
You must be pro at knowing your snes game chip serial numbers, aha.
Hmmm, it says BR2032. Is that a big difference?Ziggy587 wrote:what's printed on the top of the battery? It should be CR2032. Maybe some dumb ass put the wrong type of battery in there.
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Re: SNES Game Won't Save, Battery Is New
darthmunky wrote: Hmmm, it says BR2032. Is that a big difference?
Looks like it probably doesn't matter since the power draw for holding the memory is low. So I guess we're at having someone with Harvest Moon that can verify that the battery polarity is correct. Also check if you read 3 volts between those 2 pads that the battery solders to on the back of the cart just to be sure they battery is actually working and that the soldering is making good contact.The IEC "CR" prefix indicates a round, lithium/manganese dioxide cell. Some sizes are also designated with a "BR" prefix, indicating a round lithium/carbon monofluoride cell
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