Let me see if the Archery Manufacturing Organization have any online documentation. They use to have these little books you could buy that would explain everything. From setting up a range to what color fletching you should use when hunting certain types of animals.
Edit:
Oh thats a booya:
http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/A ... Layout.pdf
Archery?
Re: Archery?
Its not quite so severe as to feel like youre shooting a gun it just alot more technical than shooting a traditional bow. Think of it as halfway between a crossbow and a traditional bow. Ive always found more alure in shooting a traditional anyway. Makes you feel primitivedsheinem wrote: Oh, well then I probably would want a traditional bow as I don't want it to feel like shooting a gun or something (with sights). Sounds like more skill is needed with a traditional.
Re: Archery?
For the primitive feeling I usually go bowling and get car insurance from geico.toredauei wrote:Its not quite so severe as to feel like youre shooting a gun it just alot more technical than shooting a traditional bow. Think of it as halfway between a crossbow and a traditional bow. Ive always found more alure in shooting a traditional anyway. Makes you feel primitivedsheinem wrote: Oh, well then I probably would want a traditional bow as I don't want it to feel like shooting a gun or something (with sights). Sounds like more skill is needed with a traditional.
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General Chaos
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Re: Archery?
My wife and I do archery. I would suggest doing traditional archery. Compounds can be fun but if you aren't hunting then don't bother with it. Even for hunting, it's my opinion that the most skilled archers use traditional. At the club we used to be members at there was a general respect for those who did traditional.
Anyway, moving on. I use the Martin "stick." It's a very light, thin longbow and I love it. For targets I'm only pulling 25 pounds, but eventually I'll pick up a 40pound. For targets I would suggest nothing over 30. Pulling anything more consistently will wear you out to quickly and you won't get any better. Just a note, most states require 40-50 pounds at a minimum for hunting. Anything lower will probably just wound an animal.
Now, my wife uses a Martin recurve model. Recurves are easier to shoot, vibrate less, and have a larger shelf for the arrow to sit on. Both of our bows are a composite of wood with a laminate on the outside. Each cost about $300 and honestly that's what you'll pay if you want a proper bow. It only goes up from there.
As for arrows, I suggest aluminum for target shooting. Graphite are for the hardcore competitors and they can literally explode. They just don't fly that well from these types of bows anyway. Wooden arrows are cool but hard to maintain. You'll end up having to get a tool to straighten them and they can break. Do expect to pick up some glue and a pair of pliers to work with your arrows, as they will inevitably wear a bit.
Ok—then there’s the strings. Just make sure you get some wax and wax it often. Never let it fray and if you notice it starting to do so, wax it. This will help it last for a very long time. Also, I would suggest getting a bow stringer. It will save you and your bow a lot of stress.
Some other general rules: “your bow will be comfortable where you’re comfortable,” in other words, don’t leave the bow in a damp, humid, hot, cold place. Also don’t stand it up against a wall—lay it flat on the ground (unstrung), otherwise it can warp.
There are a lot of other things about proper form, etc., but I would highly suggest taking an archery class. My wife and I took one and learned a lot about the history of archery and how to shoot properly. It’s a great hobby and I know you’ll enjoy it.
Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.
Anyway, moving on. I use the Martin "stick." It's a very light, thin longbow and I love it. For targets I'm only pulling 25 pounds, but eventually I'll pick up a 40pound. For targets I would suggest nothing over 30. Pulling anything more consistently will wear you out to quickly and you won't get any better. Just a note, most states require 40-50 pounds at a minimum for hunting. Anything lower will probably just wound an animal.
Now, my wife uses a Martin recurve model. Recurves are easier to shoot, vibrate less, and have a larger shelf for the arrow to sit on. Both of our bows are a composite of wood with a laminate on the outside. Each cost about $300 and honestly that's what you'll pay if you want a proper bow. It only goes up from there.
As for arrows, I suggest aluminum for target shooting. Graphite are for the hardcore competitors and they can literally explode. They just don't fly that well from these types of bows anyway. Wooden arrows are cool but hard to maintain. You'll end up having to get a tool to straighten them and they can break. Do expect to pick up some glue and a pair of pliers to work with your arrows, as they will inevitably wear a bit.
Ok—then there’s the strings. Just make sure you get some wax and wax it often. Never let it fray and if you notice it starting to do so, wax it. This will help it last for a very long time. Also, I would suggest getting a bow stringer. It will save you and your bow a lot of stress.
Some other general rules: “your bow will be comfortable where you’re comfortable,” in other words, don’t leave the bow in a damp, humid, hot, cold place. Also don’t stand it up against a wall—lay it flat on the ground (unstrung), otherwise it can warp.
There are a lot of other things about proper form, etc., but I would highly suggest taking an archery class. My wife and I took one and learned a lot about the history of archery and how to shoot properly. It’s a great hobby and I know you’ll enjoy it.
Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.
Re: Archery?
As for set up, I would think you'd want it set up similar to a gun range.
You want a defined line of fire. No one should be confused about the direction of the range or where the projectiles are being fired. That's just basic range safety. I would probably use hay bales for targets. I know people who used to use styrofoam, but that's expensive in the size that they used to get. Especially if you're just learning, I would think a larger target backing would be optimal. You don't want your ammo hitting the ground so much as the target back.
I would fix one target up to begin with, unless you're building a cover for shooting. If you're building a roof, then you'd probably want one at 50, 100, and 200 yards or something like that. Otherwise, you might as well have 1 target set up, then pace off the distances to markers and that way, you know where you're shooting from, but haven't spent the cash on multiple targets/bales/foam backs...
just some thoughts from a shooting enthusiast who knows little about archery...
You want a defined line of fire. No one should be confused about the direction of the range or where the projectiles are being fired. That's just basic range safety. I would probably use hay bales for targets. I know people who used to use styrofoam, but that's expensive in the size that they used to get. Especially if you're just learning, I would think a larger target backing would be optimal. You don't want your ammo hitting the ground so much as the target back.
I would fix one target up to begin with, unless you're building a cover for shooting. If you're building a roof, then you'd probably want one at 50, 100, and 200 yards or something like that. Otherwise, you might as well have 1 target set up, then pace off the distances to markers and that way, you know where you're shooting from, but haven't spent the cash on multiple targets/bales/foam backs...
just some thoughts from a shooting enthusiast who knows little about archery...
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Re: Archery?
Thanks for all the great suggestions so far - sounds like it might be an expensive hobby - how much should I expect to spend to get started?
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fastbilly1
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Re: Archery?
Expensive to get started, but once you get it going it is fairly cheap to keep going. I am going to guess that since you are on four acres you will not any issue with errant children running on your range. You could probably get started decently for about $500. $300 for a bow, $100 for a care kit, $50 for arrows, $50 for a target - though most of those prices are based on speculation.
And dear me are Martins expensive. $750 for a lefty Dream Catcher! Wow.
And dear me are Martins expensive. $750 for a lefty Dream Catcher! Wow.
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General Chaos
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Re: Archery?
Yeah, $500 total sounds reasonable. If I were you I would find a good archery shop in your area. The big sports stores won't have the specialized knowledge, and an archery store (or at least one that has a major focus on archery) can answer a lot of questions and help you maintain all of your equipment.
Of course you could always get into bowcrafting and fletching and make your own stuff. I knew some guys who made their own bows. They got the job done but were ugly and pretty difficult to shoot. While a great hobby, it's also very involved and takes a lot of time.
Of course you could always get into bowcrafting and fletching and make your own stuff. I knew some guys who made their own bows. They got the job done but were ugly and pretty difficult to shoot. While a great hobby, it's also very involved and takes a lot of time.
Re: Archery?
I did some archery in school back in the day. I think you should only get a compact if you like the look of it a lot.
Normal bows also have sights, IMO the idea with targets is that you should be able to hit mostly on the same spot in general ("grouping" your shots). Then you just need some calibration to move the "group" to the bulls eye. Hitting a random center shot and several on the outskirts is pretty meaningless.
Obviously hunting may work differently, but I reckon consistently hitting the same spot and having your sight well calibrated will also be pretty important.
Ivo.
Normal bows also have sights, IMO the idea with targets is that you should be able to hit mostly on the same spot in general ("grouping" your shots). Then you just need some calibration to move the "group" to the bulls eye. Hitting a random center shot and several on the outskirts is pretty meaningless.
Obviously hunting may work differently, but I reckon consistently hitting the same spot and having your sight well calibrated will also be pretty important.
Ivo.