AV Famicom mod advice

[Ghudda]

So I have a Famicom on the way and I would definitely like to get it AV modded ASAP, and getting the parts ordered. What's the best way to go about this in 2015? I've seen people making manufactured PCB's with the circuit. I've also heard some of the methods of modding result in jailbars? I've just came across multiple guides and methods, and am not sure if the process has evolved over the past year. Can someone suggest an ideal method of getting AV out of a Famicom? Regardless, i'm thinking of going with a 4 conductor 3.5mm TRRS panel mount jack for the audio/video, mounted in place of the RF instead of drilling holes and installing RCA jacks.

I'm in need of guidance!

EDIT: my B for posting in the wrong section

-G

[Ziggy]

The BEST option is the NESRGB board...

http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/

That board makes RGB, and has an encoder on board to make S-Video and composite. There's also a separate board available to make component, if you wish. So basically, you get every video signal you would want.

From what I'm told, the audio quality is also improved. I've yet to get my own, but as I understand it, this will give you the cleanest AV signal possible. The best option also happens to be the most expensive (funny how that happens). But note that the prices are in AUD, so the conversion rate works in your favor in the USA.

The CHEAPEST option would be to tap the composite signal from the PPU and build a small amp circuit. The price is whatever you pay for a few resistors, caps, transistor, and jacks. There's a TON of different circuits available online. Here's the one I used...

Video:


Audio:

I can't really comment on a jailbar problem with the above method. Pretty much the only games I play on the FC are Castlevania games. Since they're really dark games, it makes it hard to notice jailbars, if any exist.

Here's another AV mod that focuses on jailbards: http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod.htm

Mounting a multi conductor jack in place of the RF jack is smart. I don't like drilling holes in consoles myself, and try to avoid doing so whenever possible. On my Famicom, I disconnected the useless controllers. The holes where the wires for the controllers were, I have wires coming out for female RCA plugs. One audio, one video. But those holes are also useful if you wanted to add NES controller plugs.

Speaking of the attached FC controllers, you can read my thoughts and solutions if you're interested: http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25087

[Ghudda]

Thanks for the input, Z! I really want to make the leap to NESRGB, but yeah the price is a bit steep for the time being (but the conversion rate does make it look a bit more friendly). I'll probably just take the cheap approach and do the composite circuit. Honestly, although i've done a few mods and quiet a bit of soldering over the past couple of years, I still don't fully understand circuitry and reading schematics so I think it'd be a good learning experience buying the components and putting them on perf board, etc. I really wish someone sold there own in house circuit board, though for convenience.

This looks like it covers all of the components I need, correct?
http://console5.com/store/kits/av/nes-t ... d-kit.html

[Ziggy]

Yeah, get the Console5 kit. I would have suggested it if I remembered. They actually use the same circuit as the one I linked by Kyuusaku (the one I used in my FC) with the exception of the order of the 220uF cap and 110 ohm resister.

I took a look at the Console5 install directions and they have you lift pin 21 (composite video) on the PPU. I left pin 21 down on mine and just tapped it. I don't know what difference that makes. I'd assume, if any difference, that lifting it is better.

You might find it easier NOT using perf board for this. It's only 4 components (1 transistor, 1 cap, 2 resistors). The FC has VERY little space inside to work with. You'll fit everything easier if you just wire up the components and have them "floating" inside. You'll see when you open the FC up.

I took a real lazy approach when fitting everything inside. Like I said, I removed the attached controllers and routed RCA plugs out those holes. I also removed the eject mechanism and routed the wires through there. The cart eject slider doesn't work very well, I had no problem removing it.

[Ghudda]

Nice, after taking another look at it, this doesn't seem bad at all. How should I go about "stereo" audio? I'll have L/R conductors on the 3.5mm jack. Is it worth doing the "pseudo-stereo" mod, or should I just use an adapter to split the signal? Can I just run two separate wires from the audio pin to the L/R of my 3.5mm jack?

[Ziggy]

Can I just run two separate wires from the audio pin to the L/R of my 3.5mm jack?

Yes. But even easier, you don't have to run two wires. Just one wire from the audio pin and jump it two the the audio L and R pins on the jack.

So you're gonna use a cable like this one?

[Ghudda]

Sounds easy enough! I went ahead and ordered the kit.

So you're gonna use a cable like this one?

Yeah, I'll probably order the 3.5mm jack from Vetco and they also sell a 3.5mm cable here so I'll just pick that up from them as well.I've done a couple of TG16 AV mods in the past and used TRRS panel jacks and finding quality 3.5mm AV cables can be a real pain. The problem is that the wiring is always inconsistent, so I end up having to wire the jack according to the cable itself.