hi RB members , im looking at the below to quicken up the time when doing this project as i have more 360's to do.
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=46376&p=879232&hilit=xbox#p879232
http://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-drum ... izes_c1020
it takes about 2 1/2 hours to get to the finished circle , i think i can speed up the process with a Sanding Drum
can you fit these to your standard drill ive never used one before ?
any other methods and suggestions welcome
chat soon
looking for a sanding accessory/tool
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fastbilly1
- Site Admin
- Posts: 13775
- Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:08 pm
Re: looking for a sanding accessory/tool
I suggest a rotary tool. Dremel is the main brand that is out there, but if you are using it alot I highly recommend a Flexible Shaft Grinder with footcontrols like a Foredom. Trust me, after you do a few it will be worth the extra money.
Re: looking for a sanding accessory/tool
I'd spend max 10 minutes, but the result would be similar. If I spent more time I'd be able to get a laser-like finish on the edge, or an internal bevel...
I usually draw 2 circle diameters from the center point - the final edge, and a safe destruction zone. The internal diameter is dependent on which tools I'm using. Since I do demolition fast, I usually use a 1/8" safe zone.
I'd never choose melting as it's too slow. I'd use my largest wood drill bit to make room for my jigsaw. I'd use a medium-tooth jigsaw to rough-cut the smaller safe-zone hole. I'd then use a dremel (or drill if I didn't have one) with a coarse barrel-type carbide bit to get within 16th of an inch of the final diameter. Your idea about the sanding drum bit is correct. It's the same tool I'd use for the final edge, tho if I were going for perfection I'd finish off manually with some fine sandpaper by hand, and depending on how critical the final edge was I might even use wet-sandpaper(s). The one thing to watch out for is you need a low RPM to not melt the plastic (depending on the sanding grit you use). Otherwise it'll just clog the sandpaper making it garbage instantly.
If you do not have a saw, there's a drill-bit variety called rotozip (google rotozip drill). They make them for all different materials from wood to tile. It's meant to allow a drill to cut through wood or other materials side-ways. Using a coarse-enough bit, you could just start close to your safe zone, drill down until it's penetrated, then follow your rough-cut line until the center drops out. Then you could finish with the sanding drum. If you find the right coarseness for your drill's RPM, you might just be able to cut your final diameter and then clean the edges of the cut with a fine half-round file to take the chaff off.
If you're going to get a dremel (best purchase ever if you do anything like this often) and you do not intend to do much work with stainless or hardened steel, I suggest a really cheap one from the local hardware store that comes with a large selection of polishing bits, grinding stones and cutting discs. Unless you start taxing it's motor on metal it'll definitely pay for itself before you kill it.
I usually draw 2 circle diameters from the center point - the final edge, and a safe destruction zone. The internal diameter is dependent on which tools I'm using. Since I do demolition fast, I usually use a 1/8" safe zone.
I'd never choose melting as it's too slow. I'd use my largest wood drill bit to make room for my jigsaw. I'd use a medium-tooth jigsaw to rough-cut the smaller safe-zone hole. I'd then use a dremel (or drill if I didn't have one) with a coarse barrel-type carbide bit to get within 16th of an inch of the final diameter. Your idea about the sanding drum bit is correct. It's the same tool I'd use for the final edge, tho if I were going for perfection I'd finish off manually with some fine sandpaper by hand, and depending on how critical the final edge was I might even use wet-sandpaper(s). The one thing to watch out for is you need a low RPM to not melt the plastic (depending on the sanding grit you use). Otherwise it'll just clog the sandpaper making it garbage instantly.
If you do not have a saw, there's a drill-bit variety called rotozip (google rotozip drill). They make them for all different materials from wood to tile. It's meant to allow a drill to cut through wood or other materials side-ways. Using a coarse-enough bit, you could just start close to your safe zone, drill down until it's penetrated, then follow your rough-cut line until the center drops out. Then you could finish with the sanding drum. If you find the right coarseness for your drill's RPM, you might just be able to cut your final diameter and then clean the edges of the cut with a fine half-round file to take the chaff off.
If you're going to get a dremel (best purchase ever if you do anything like this often) and you do not intend to do much work with stainless or hardened steel, I suggest a really cheap one from the local hardware store that comes with a large selection of polishing bits, grinding stones and cutting discs. Unless you start taxing it's motor on metal it'll definitely pay for itself before you kill it.
