Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"

[bacteria]

The shoulder buttons will be the hard part.

I want to get the GameCube controller wired up, and also in a forthcoming video, show 3 or 4 of the currently prepared systems working independently and properly - once I start to make a case for the structure.

[CRTGAMER]

How was you planning on switching between systems with one controller? I modded an old Zaxxon Arcade Controller with extra Happ buttons, IDE connector used as a jumper between three systems. I can see the triggers being a pain, some systems analog and others digital.

[bacteria]

On the GameCube, the shoulder buttons are analogue however if you press the button fully then you get a digital contact too. That is handy!

Switching from one console to another will be done by isolating the ground voltage as all other grounds will be isolated and independent. Diodes will ensure button press activity is one-way from the controller to the consoles but the signal cannot travel from one console to another. That's the thoery anyway! Given that's in effect what I needed to do with the Intellivision controller, it works.

[CRTGAMER]

Diodes a great idea, I shoulda done that.

[bacteria]

Hit a potentially major issue.

I had intended to have all button contacts and groundings separated via diodes to keep all the systems independent.

Turns out diodes don't work for this - worked great for keeping each line on the Intellivision wiring for the matrix separate (or it didn't work basically), however, if I use a diode on the ground going to the television I don't get an image; if I use diodes for joystick connections, doesn't work.

I can keep the groundings separate by activating each console system separately by a 2P2T switch. If you think about it, the negative from the console to the power source (which includes the controller in that loop) of course has to be kept separate or multiple systems will try and work at the same time. The grounding to the video and audio output has to be independent, as diodes don't work, I need to use switches instead, a 2 pole 2 throw switch would connect power source negative to console, and also negative from the console board to the A/V output and the external controller; this will keep the groundings separate of course.

Problem is I can't isolate the button contacts. The GameCube controller is rather sensitive too - obviously touching the "A" button contact to ground made it think "A" was pressed; however, just touching the wire, without touching the wire to ground made the button contact activate; and i'm not grounded.

I will get this GameCube system rigged up to the remote controller and make my video, then experiment with a system I know doesn't like to co-exist with other consoles button contacts - N64 - I can do this mod really fast, don't even need to open up the N64 console yet, just wire up the controller to my system and see if it co-exists with grounding separated, or not.

If all else fails, I do have one last ditch method that is certain to work, but it isn't clean - remember I mentioned before that i'm going to use an N64 cart (or maybe MegaDrive) to connect the console to the controller?...well, I could have it so that each console system is wired to their own cart slot on the base unit, whichever port the controller is plugged into receives power and boots that system; all the button contacts will be totally independent that way.

This is precisely the reason I had to make a few console systems work and integrate first, before making the casing - having to potentially have an N64 cart slot to make each console system work properly would double the cart slots on the final system; and also make the final system bigger too - not ideal but would definitely work.

Any ideas in replacement of the diodes? I tried Zener diodes and also Rectifier diodes, BTW, same result earlier. If just isolating the ground line works, great, no issues; issue is if in addition to that the contacts also need isolation - including the analogue joysticks and shoulder buttons.

[CRTGAMER]

I woulda thought the diodes were the answer not sure about 100% isolation and resistance factor the other way though. A ton of bypass toggle switches, relays or cable disconnect plug are bulky other options.

EDIT
Wrote this, Zaxxon Arcade controller mod using IDE cables as the toggle switch:
http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopi ... 82#p292282

Complete isolation of all buttons for a given system.

[bacteria]

I forgot of course that joystick connections are bi-directional so of course diodes are wrong for that - but needed for the buttons and A/V lines for sure.

Used slightly thicker wires and shortened the wires from the GameCube Player board to the relocated GBA cart slot - works great now!

Not had much time for project work lately, will do - seem to spend a fair bit of time on my forum as its quite busy; will have to find more time for my projects!

[CRTGAMER]

I forgot of course that joystick connections are bi-directional so of course diodes are wrong for that - but needed for the buttons and A/V lines for sure.

Oop me too, the resistance factor of pots. Perhaps toggle switches just for the Analogs?

[bacteria]

Indeed, there are so many parameters on this project it is too easy for me to forget things! lol

The only systems that need analogue shoulder buttons or joysticks in my system are (off the top of my head): N64, PS2, Xbox, GameCube, DreamCast; all the other systems just use buttons for all contacts. If i'm lucky, I might not have too many conflict issues with this number, as long as grounding is isolated, only way to know is to try. In worst case scenario, I might need a plug to swap for these systems rather than others, that plug would only need to be a PlayStation type connector at worst.

I've got various types of diodes now to experiment with before "bulk buy" as needed.

One issue, interference on lines - I need several inches from controllers to a central point for the controller plug, and then a couple of metres after that for the controller cable. This means i'm going to have to use old controller cables for the wires from the separate controllers to the main one - they should be isolated enough; again, one way to know and that's to test!

[CRTGAMER]

Two sticks plus the two triggers = Six pots.
Do all the various system pots have three wires, one for the common?
Minimal of thirteen wires to toggle?