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bacteria wrote:I don't think I need to put in the switch for the drive units to think the doors are open as i'm pretty sure if there is no disc present it goes to the menus anyway;

this won't mess with multi-disc games when switching discs, will it?

No idea, but probably would thinking about it. Good point. In saying that though, only multi-disc games I have are probably Shinmue on the DreamCast, and Final Fantasy (which I haven't played). If it becomes an issue I can implement the switches in the casing, but i'm trying to keep the system looking as clean as can.

Any game that doesn't prompt you to save between disc swaps would break. It would break Metal Gear Solid 1 for example.

Ok good to know. I had wondered why i'd put the "no-disc present" switches in there in the first place, i'd forgotten! No issues with the PS2 as i'm using the PS2 phat, the only systems that would be affected are Saturn, DreamCast and GameCube. I think from the comments it would be worth seeing if I can incorporate external switches, although the wires would have to be rather long in the case to work, so would need to see if they were happy to do that first. If I can't find the space (that is a possibility) then i'd probably only have a couple of games in my collection that might be an issue, so not a biggie.

Is there a way to make the switch activate/deactivate just from the opening of the drawers? That'd probably be the cleanest way to do it.

Nice idea and a good one, I have some such switches too... (assuming I have the space in the case I can mount them. Nice one, thanks!

best of luck, man! this is going to be really cool to see completed

Progress is steady, just these last stages seem to take longer than anticipated.

Sanded down some off the two edges to make them smoother on the sides. The switching unit is working really smoothly also now.

Been working on the connector for the controller and to the case. Thought i'd share some pics and what i'm working on:

Figured i'd put in a couple of fans to move the air around the case itself. There is plenty of air intake from the switch section, and there is a strong air extractor at the bottom of the case, so there would be air movement, however had space for a small fan at the top and a 4" PC fan at the bottom (left) to move the air around.



I've been using a male/female connector to connect the controller to the base unit, easy to remove so I can move the base unit around my desk easier.



Most SNES controllers are molded and some are pretty much on the connector permanently, however I had a third party one that pops out from two clips at the back - ideal! Just need to cut off the end of the SNES connector to make it flat.



Got a male and female d-sub pair of connectors as need about 12 connections from base unit to master controller.

Idea is the connector will end up looking like this:



You can see in the photo the placement for the male connector.



When this is done, I then need to do the new power on/off switch, using the GameCube one instead of the bulky one I have been using.

Finished the controller port.



And the connector and port on the base unit:



I hope it's wired up ok, not tested it yet; should be fine though.

Tested the system just now; all works fine. Tested on GameCube game as that would be sensitive to things not working right. Bottom line is the new D-sub ports work, the connections and modding to the controller plug is working and the male connector on the base unit is connected properly too.

Also working is the drive doors, open the drive door on my system and the console thinks the drive door is open, and when pushed in (as normal) it activates the drive.

I need however to reinforce the section for the D-sub connector to have it rigid when the controller is removed and inserted, and after that the last modding on the project is the new on/off button, and it's mounting on the system. I can then make the last two sides for the system paint, and decals.