Been busy. Secured the Intellivision motherboard above the Colecovision one, wired up the power lines and A/V lines; not tested yet though to see if it works or not. Also put the composite video mod for the Intellivision in a logical place. Changed the on/off switch for a larger one. Gutted my old Intellivision controller section (with all the diodes) ready for its new mounting in an NES cart.
Assuming the console board still works fine (not tested it for months, always chance it doesn't), then might even possibly have the Intellivision system completed in Project Unity before Christmas, or soon afterwards.
Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Intellivision board worked, and works each time.
Remade the Intellivision d-pad section from scratch as the old one wasn't reliable enough. spent a good few hours on this.
More posts on my forum, however this is the new and important part:
For an Intellivision 8 way pad to work, using a d-pad isn't sensitive enough, and joystick too high, so had a joystick top from something I kept from ages ago, a semi-sphere, and superglued it to the top, works fine. I have good movement now in 8 ways, and if prefer, can always use the regular d-pad for 4 way (eg in maze games like Night Stalker or Lock'N'Chase) to give more accuracy.
(you can't use a normal 4 way d-pad for 8 way movement on the Intellivision or you don't get proper diagonals - see posts about a year ago on this thread!)
This wasn't easy to remake, but it works and works well now.
Some of the keypad buttons don't work and I need to also get the shoulder buttons working, basically mis-wired a few connections, but no big deal. Taking a break probably for the day, may do more later, but if not certainly tomorrow.
Piccy:
No, it doesn't get in the way when using the normal d-pad.
Remade the Intellivision d-pad section from scratch as the old one wasn't reliable enough. spent a good few hours on this.
More posts on my forum, however this is the new and important part:
For an Intellivision 8 way pad to work, using a d-pad isn't sensitive enough, and joystick too high, so had a joystick top from something I kept from ages ago, a semi-sphere, and superglued it to the top, works fine. I have good movement now in 8 ways, and if prefer, can always use the regular d-pad for 4 way (eg in maze games like Night Stalker or Lock'N'Chase) to give more accuracy.
(you can't use a normal 4 way d-pad for 8 way movement on the Intellivision or you don't get proper diagonals - see posts about a year ago on this thread!)
This wasn't easy to remake, but it works and works well now.
Some of the keypad buttons don't work and I need to also get the shoulder buttons working, basically mis-wired a few connections, but no big deal. Taking a break probably for the day, may do more later, but if not certainly tomorrow.
Piccy:
No, it doesn't get in the way when using the normal d-pad.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Sweet controller! Does that ball also work as analog or is it for the Intellivision?CRT vs LCD - Hardware Mods - HDAdvance - Custom Controllers - Game Storage - Wii Gamecube and other Guides:
CRTGAMER Guides in Board Guides Index: http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopi ... 5#p1109425
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
It is purely for the Intellivision, it isn't a trackball, it's a joystick top to control the d-pad. The old d-pad I had in it didn't work well due to travel, so had to change the internals of it and also the d-pad top. Building an 8 button d-pad with independent contacts wasn't easy but was needed for the Intellivision so it could behave like a normal 4 way (8 way) d-pad.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Yes, it was, but not sure why he called his mod "Unity", however, whatever! lol
Update - couldn't work out why two buttons on the keypad failed to work, i'd used the pinout I worked out myself ages ago after all. I know the signals are weak, after all, the controller pins connect to diodes that act as the matrix for the controller to tell it what combinations do what.
Turned out the issue with two buttons, on keypad buttons 3 and 9, was down to an interesting issue. Because of a lack of pins in my NES cart for the controller boards i'm using, I used keypad buttons 3 and 9 as dual purpose to double up as lines to drive a rumble motor for systems like N64, PS2, GameCube, etc. It seems like the extra resistance going to the rumble motor and probably the rumble motor itself, stops those lines working on the Intellivision, so basically buttons 3 and 9 won't work. The remedy is of course to remove those lines from the motor - did that, all works great.
I therefore only have two options left - one is to see if by using diodes I can keep the motor working and also the keypad for the Intellivision; otherwise i'll have to miss out on the rumble motor. If that's the case, i'll probably install an LED in the systems that use rumble, and put that LED in the cartridge itself; that way there is still "rumble" all be it with an LED not a motor.
At least got the Intellivision controller section nearly done, just have the shoulder buttons to wire.
Update - couldn't work out why two buttons on the keypad failed to work, i'd used the pinout I worked out myself ages ago after all. I know the signals are weak, after all, the controller pins connect to diodes that act as the matrix for the controller to tell it what combinations do what.
Turned out the issue with two buttons, on keypad buttons 3 and 9, was down to an interesting issue. Because of a lack of pins in my NES cart for the controller boards i'm using, I used keypad buttons 3 and 9 as dual purpose to double up as lines to drive a rumble motor for systems like N64, PS2, GameCube, etc. It seems like the extra resistance going to the rumble motor and probably the rumble motor itself, stops those lines working on the Intellivision, so basically buttons 3 and 9 won't work. The remedy is of course to remove those lines from the motor - did that, all works great.
I therefore only have two options left - one is to see if by using diodes I can keep the motor working and also the keypad for the Intellivision; otherwise i'll have to miss out on the rumble motor. If that's the case, i'll probably install an LED in the systems that use rumble, and put that LED in the cartridge itself; that way there is still "rumble" all be it with an LED not a motor.
At least got the Intellivision controller section nearly done, just have the shoulder buttons to wire.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Done a bit on the Atari 7800.
My 500k variable pot on ebay arrived, soldered that to the board and when rotated it enough, got lovely blue back to complement the other colours - all's fine now.
Got to work on the cart slot too, removed the excess from the Atari cart holder, and screwed wood posts into the cart holder so can secure it to the Unity case.
System is powered by a 7.5v PSone PSU as you can see. RGB output on the cable.
Lots to do yet.
My 500k variable pot on ebay arrived, soldered that to the board and when rotated it enough, got lovely blue back to complement the other colours - all's fine now.
Got to work on the cart slot too, removed the excess from the Atari cart holder, and screwed wood posts into the cart holder so can secure it to the Unity case.
System is powered by a 7.5v PSone PSU as you can see. RGB output on the cable.
Lots to do yet.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Made quite a bit of progress today.
Made a shelf for the remaining 5 systems, and secured by screws to the casing sides. This will take the weight of the last systems.
Made a shelf for the next layer of carts, and secured the Intellivision and Colecovision cart holders into place. Took a bit of time to do all the above.
I have worked out though, one layer (present one) needs to have the third cart system as either Megadrive or SMS, so going to do Megadrive on that layer. The top layer will be GX4000, Atari 7800 and SMS. The remaining system, TurboGrafx, uses credit card sized carts, which is ideal as frankly, i've run out of space.
That means although i'm about 75% complete on the Atari 7800, it makes sense to leave it to the side and crack on with the Megadrive, when done, i'll finish off the Atari 7800.
At this rate, I might well have all the internals completed totally by the end of this month. I need to make a couple of alterations here and there to the wiring in some of the NES controller carts, for example, didn't realise I needed the clickies on the PS2 joysticks for some games, so will implement that; and also need to catalogue more what each button on the master controller does for each system, been a little lazy in that regard so far. Also need to make some keypad overlays and also instruction sheets for each system.
Then, of course, need to make the system look pretty by making a suitable casing for the system.
I think there is every chance i'll have the whole system finished by end of February, which is my personal timeline - end of March would be ok so have time to make a portable handheld too for the Revival event.
Made a shelf for the remaining 5 systems, and secured by screws to the casing sides. This will take the weight of the last systems.
Made a shelf for the next layer of carts, and secured the Intellivision and Colecovision cart holders into place. Took a bit of time to do all the above.
I have worked out though, one layer (present one) needs to have the third cart system as either Megadrive or SMS, so going to do Megadrive on that layer. The top layer will be GX4000, Atari 7800 and SMS. The remaining system, TurboGrafx, uses credit card sized carts, which is ideal as frankly, i've run out of space.
That means although i'm about 75% complete on the Atari 7800, it makes sense to leave it to the side and crack on with the Megadrive, when done, i'll finish off the Atari 7800.
At this rate, I might well have all the internals completed totally by the end of this month. I need to make a couple of alterations here and there to the wiring in some of the NES controller carts, for example, didn't realise I needed the clickies on the PS2 joysticks for some games, so will implement that; and also need to catalogue more what each button on the master controller does for each system, been a little lazy in that regard so far. Also need to make some keypad overlays and also instruction sheets for each system.
Then, of course, need to make the system look pretty by making a suitable casing for the system.
I think there is every chance i'll have the whole system finished by end of February, which is my personal timeline - end of March would be ok so have time to make a portable handheld too for the Revival event.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Found a couple of interesting things about the MegaDrive 1 console.
The power goes to two 7805's, however goes there indirectly via other components, so i'm hoping it will work fine off 8.5v on my system (the MegaDrive's power supply says 10v), as will be convenient if it does. If it's like the SNES, then the system probably runs off 5v (via 7805's) but the audio circuits need more power.
The two 7805's on the motherboard seem to feed into two different areas, rather than just working in parallel. (I think they are in 2 different areas anyway).
Remove the LED for the "power on" light, and the system doesn't work. I had removed it originally, couldn't get video; soldered the LED back and it worked.
As the 7805's on the motherboard are on a thick metal plate for cooling, for my Unity system i'll see if I can remove the 7805's totally and wire the 5v from the 7805's with my regulator boards, as I have 3 x 7805's in parallel and on a large heatsink (a GameCube heatsink actually) for cooling.
At least I know now what to do regards voltages, video and audio pinouts; means I can rig the system up to work (assuming the 8.5v is fine for the main voltage, if not, i'll get a 7810 regulator to give 10v and feed that to the system).
With any luck, I might have enough time in the next couple of days to get the MegaDrive board trimmed a bit, do a cart relocation, wire the system up to the Unity system, and test.
The power goes to two 7805's, however goes there indirectly via other components, so i'm hoping it will work fine off 8.5v on my system (the MegaDrive's power supply says 10v), as will be convenient if it does. If it's like the SNES, then the system probably runs off 5v (via 7805's) but the audio circuits need more power.
The two 7805's on the motherboard seem to feed into two different areas, rather than just working in parallel. (I think they are in 2 different areas anyway).
Remove the LED for the "power on" light, and the system doesn't work. I had removed it originally, couldn't get video; soldered the LED back and it worked.
As the 7805's on the motherboard are on a thick metal plate for cooling, for my Unity system i'll see if I can remove the 7805's totally and wire the 5v from the 7805's with my regulator boards, as I have 3 x 7805's in parallel and on a large heatsink (a GameCube heatsink actually) for cooling.
At least I know now what to do regards voltages, video and audio pinouts; means I can rig the system up to work (assuming the 8.5v is fine for the main voltage, if not, i'll get a 7810 regulator to give 10v and feed that to the system).
With any luck, I might have enough time in the next couple of days to get the MegaDrive board trimmed a bit, do a cart relocation, wire the system up to the Unity system, and test.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Got the MegaDrive working, initially got nothing, which was strange, just a blank screen. Anyway, might be my MegaDrive doesn't want to work in RGB mode, it works on composite ok. I'll have to investigate why - might be my MegaDrive in fact can't do RGB, i'll have to check my diagrams.
As you see here, space is getting quite tight!
As you see here, space is getting quite tight!
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Well, i'm still sick, after having taken all last week off work. Got some antibiotics to help, will be back to work on Monday even though not really fit for work yet, can't take more time off.
Can concentrate a lot more now though, again not exactly back to normal but getting better; did some project work:
Wired to the video and audio chip directly and getting proper RGB working now. No idea why it didn't want to work off the external port, must be electronics there playing with the signals somehow.
Also, did the 50/60Mhz mod too, this is actually really simple and very worthwhile to us PAL users.
Read this extract from an article I found, and you'll understand the why's:
Had to double check around the net the way to do the mod was the same, as it appears different revisions of boards have the numbers of the jumpers in a different sequence, as well as being in different places on the motherboard. Yes, irrespective, which makes the guide easy!
This is one layout for example:
...and on mine:
Notice mine is "1234".
Principle is the same; "1" and "2" are language, ie English or Japanese; so will leave those.
"3" is the 50Mhz (PAL) mode and "4" is the 60Mhz (NTSC) mode.
So, just cut the trace on JP3, then wire as below: the wire on the left goes to the middle switch pin and the other two to the outer switch pins on a SPST switch. It's that simple.
And here is the result:
Squashed 50Mhz PAL normal mode we were forced to have in the UK because of lazy American game developers:
...and in 60Mhz mode - now circles are circles, and items look right; there seems a bit of a speed increase too, I think.
Can concentrate a lot more now though, again not exactly back to normal but getting better; did some project work:
Wired to the video and audio chip directly and getting proper RGB working now. No idea why it didn't want to work off the external port, must be electronics there playing with the signals somehow.
Also, did the 50/60Mhz mod too, this is actually really simple and very worthwhile to us PAL users.
Read this extract from an article I found, and you'll understand the why's:
Had to double check around the net the way to do the mod was the same, as it appears different revisions of boards have the numbers of the jumpers in a different sequence, as well as being in different places on the motherboard. Yes, irrespective, which makes the guide easy!
This is one layout for example:
...and on mine:
Notice mine is "1234".
Principle is the same; "1" and "2" are language, ie English or Japanese; so will leave those.
"3" is the 50Mhz (PAL) mode and "4" is the 60Mhz (NTSC) mode.
So, just cut the trace on JP3, then wire as below: the wire on the left goes to the middle switch pin and the other two to the outer switch pins on a SPST switch. It's that simple.
And here is the result:
Squashed 50Mhz PAL normal mode we were forced to have in the UK because of lazy American game developers:
...and in 60Mhz mode - now circles are circles, and items look right; there seems a bit of a speed increase too, I think.
I am the Bacman