I haven't read every post (so I may have missed it) but does the tv mod fill the whole screen or is it the size of the box like in the pic of ecco the dolphin you posted?
Also, what controllers does this support?
Recapping and Consolizing a Game Gear (WIP)
Re: Recapping and Consolizing a Game Gear (WIP)
If I understand correctly, SMS games (via an adapter) will be full screen but GG games will not be full screen. Although if you are using a scaler, you could always zoom in.https://etim.net.au/ggtv/ggtv.htm wrote:When playing Sega Master System games (with a cartridge adapter) the Game Gear compresses the video signal to make it fit into the internal LCD screen. This compressed video is not compatible with this output board. The compression can be disabled by connecting point T10 to +5v (logic high). In this state, the video will no longer display on the internal LCD screen but a good, full screen picture will output from the board. A switch or pin on the video connector can be used to select whether SMS games render properly on the internal screen or video output. Game Gear games will have a large border (see picture below) and this is unchanged by the state of T10.
The controller port mod support 3 and 6 button Genesis / Mega Drive controllers.
Re: Recapping and Consolizing a Game Gear (WIP)
Ugh, so I have a sort of non-update update.
When I initially wired up the GGTV, I had all of the wires excessively long. When I was testing it, I had some interference in the video signal but I knew it was probably because the wires were long and also because the instructions say to keep the pixel clock signal away from the other signals. So after testing to confirm that it worked, I then shortened all of the wires to get a neater install inside the case. But the problem with the video interference didn't go away. In fact, it was getting worse.
It was also intermittently NOT working at all. I wasn't getting any video or audio output. At this point I was thinking there's a problem with the Game Gear main board. Nothing I did seemed to help. Then I was re-reading the instructions for the GGTV install and remembered that it said to be sure to ground the GGTV on both sides of the board. So I wired the additional ground and it seems to work consistently now. But still with the interference.
So what's the deal with the interference? I'm thinking the signal lines to the GGTV might still be too long. So I suppose I'm taking a mental break from it right now (which is always a good idea to avoid having a project get deeply embedded into the drywall LOL). But I think the next thing I will do is shorten the signal wires and see if that helps.
When I initially wired up the GGTV, I had all of the wires excessively long. When I was testing it, I had some interference in the video signal but I knew it was probably because the wires were long and also because the instructions say to keep the pixel clock signal away from the other signals. So after testing to confirm that it worked, I then shortened all of the wires to get a neater install inside the case. But the problem with the video interference didn't go away. In fact, it was getting worse.
It was also intermittently NOT working at all. I wasn't getting any video or audio output. At this point I was thinking there's a problem with the Game Gear main board. Nothing I did seemed to help. Then I was re-reading the instructions for the GGTV install and remembered that it said to be sure to ground the GGTV on both sides of the board. So I wired the additional ground and it seems to work consistently now. But still with the interference.
So what's the deal with the interference? I'm thinking the signal lines to the GGTV might still be too long. So I suppose I'm taking a mental break from it right now (which is always a good idea to avoid having a project get deeply embedded into the drywall LOL). But I think the next thing I will do is shorten the signal wires and see if that helps.
Re: Recapping and Consolizing a Game Gear (WIP)
Progress!
I shortened all of the wires for the video signals that input into the GGTV. They are pretty much as short as possible at this point, unless I relocate the GGTV board. And I made sure to route the pixel clock wire so that it can be as far from the other wires as possible, as per the recommendations from etim. And it worked! The video is very clean now, and free from glitches. At least, most of the time. I've noticed that some screens have minor glitching, but no where near as close to how bad it was before.
Above is the headphones daughter board. I tapped the stereo L and R signals from the 3.5mm output jack with some shielded 2 conductor cable.
All that's left now to finish this up is to...
1. Finish wiring the controller mod board and test it
2. Wire the AV signals to the mini-DIN output and mount the breakout board
3. Secure everything in place (screws, maybe some tape or shrink wrap tubing, etc)
I'm a little concerned with putting screws into the 3D printed case. There are screw posts that line up with the mounting holes on the PCBs. But this case seems a little fragile, so I'm worried when I go to put the screws in (and cut threads) that the screw posts might snap off. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
I shortened all of the wires for the video signals that input into the GGTV. They are pretty much as short as possible at this point, unless I relocate the GGTV board. And I made sure to route the pixel clock wire so that it can be as far from the other wires as possible, as per the recommendations from etim. And it worked! The video is very clean now, and free from glitches. At least, most of the time. I've noticed that some screens have minor glitching, but no where near as close to how bad it was before.
Above is the headphones daughter board. I tapped the stereo L and R signals from the 3.5mm output jack with some shielded 2 conductor cable.
All that's left now to finish this up is to...
1. Finish wiring the controller mod board and test it
2. Wire the AV signals to the mini-DIN output and mount the breakout board
3. Secure everything in place (screws, maybe some tape or shrink wrap tubing, etc)
I'm a little concerned with putting screws into the 3D printed case. There are screw posts that line up with the mounting holes on the PCBs. But this case seems a little fragile, so I'm worried when I go to put the screws in (and cut threads) that the screw posts might snap off. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Re: Recapping and Consolizing a Game Gear (WIP)
DAMMIT! There's still an issue with glitchy video. 
Yesterday, I didn't have the controller port hooked up. So when I was testing, it was just on the intro, title screen and demo reels of Ecco and Sonic. Today I finished hooking up the controller mod, so now I can actually play the games. Ecco seems mostly fine, although it can get a little glitchy when many sprites are on the screen. But the first level in Sonic is super glitchy.
edit: I ended up emailing etim about the glitchy video. He suggested added two more ground wires, for a total of two on each side of the GGTV board. He also recommended using a heavier gauge wire (the GGTV comes with 30 AWG) which I already way (22AWG). So I tried this, and it works perfectly now!
Yesterday, I didn't have the controller port hooked up. So when I was testing, it was just on the intro, title screen and demo reels of Ecco and Sonic. Today I finished hooking up the controller mod, so now I can actually play the games. Ecco seems mostly fine, although it can get a little glitchy when many sprites are on the screen. But the first level in Sonic is super glitchy.
edit: I ended up emailing etim about the glitchy video. He suggested added two more ground wires, for a total of two on each side of the GGTV board. He also recommended using a heavier gauge wire (the GGTV comes with 30 AWG) which I already way (22AWG). So I tried this, and it works perfectly now!