Bacteria's portable DreamCast handheld console - IntoDream

[bacteria]

Well IcKy99 - running the DC off 7.4v and not 12v not only is slightly cooler to run the system but also uses less amps to run. It was worked out by daftmike who tried my idea of the 7.4 on a DC, to test it, and he reported the draw at 1.9 amps. The PSone screen, unmodded (I don't like uneven lighting on screens, like the LED mod) takes 0.8 amps when running with stereo audio, that means c. 2.7 amps. One of the extra fans takes 0.05 amps and the other one 0.08 amps, so still in the order of 2.7 amps complete. This is why i'm using household electrical wiring, rated 3 amps for this project, thinner and the wire will not power the system well and also may get warm - battery connectors get hot fast just due to the amps passing through them, to give an idea!

One issue is weight - batteries weigh a bit, and the DC hardware is quite heavy; the other issue is space in the portable. To say space is at a premium in there is an understatement; I know I can fit 4 cells in place for sure (4.4 amps), question is if I can get another 4 in there too to make 8.8 amps total, or not; and if the extra weight is an issue or not.

4.4 amps would mean hopefully the portable should last about 80 - 90 minutes, one and a half hours is not bad frankly, but if I can get 8.8 amps in there, I should get just over 3 hours hopefully on fully charged cells.

I will be happy though with just 4.4 amps for two reasons - firstly an hour and a half of Quake or Unreal is probably my max anyway, and also batteries are not cheap overall, a 4 cell 7.4v pack (4.4 amps) costs about £20 and a 2 cell 7.4v pack (2 amps) costs about £10.

Test will be the only true way to know battery life, that stage will be made towards the end of the project. The TI cards take less draw from the batteries because of the way they work, however taking such a large amperage from batteries on a constant basis puts a lot of pressure on the cells.

[bacteria]

Damn - Kron from Assembler forum pointed something out - the VMU card is upside down! When the unit shows an image in a game, it shows it upside down! That means I need to remove the VMU (that I spent ages getting working reliably), rotate it and re-set it.

[bacteria]

Ok, reversed the VMU unit. Got it working quickly this time, mind you, I know what I am doing now!

Date and time will now be upside down but the gameplay will be the right way around!

[bacteria]

Previously, a couple of people from my previous forum persuaded me to change the project name not to be "Into...." as this project used two modded tupperware boxes for the case halves. I have decided to revert to my original name for this project, as my projects all all going to be like my last projects - Into... and be red and black. That way, they are uniform.

Spent a while making this logo for the CD tray:



More updates later tonight...

[Jayson]

It looks awesome so far. I am looking forward to seeing the end result.

Awesome stuff as always!

[bacteria]

Love these foam sanding blocks, they are flexible, bendable and also great sanding blocks.

Apply some PolyFiller filler, sand down, add more to fill in any pits or tiny holes, repeat, repeat - eventually you end up with a completely smooth surface



Don't forget the join between the perspex and the tupperware side, fill in any cracks.



Removed the adhesive PSone sticker from the CD tray, filled with PolyFiller and sanded - smooth!



Some people use bondo, etc for filling, PolyFiller is fairly strong, especially when painted or varnished; it is easy to use and get a smooth surface. You don't use it for strength, just as a cosmetic filler.



This is what it looks like before painting, will look 10x better when paint is applied.



Just given it a couple of coats of plastic primer spray paint, can start the process to paint the case red, and controls black, as is "ma thing"

[DNT 2.5]

For paint, Instead of Krylon fusion, Try tamiya model paint, it is made for painting model cars, But the paint is VERY strong and looks amazing, but make sure to put 2 or three coats of clearcoat, and 7-8 VERY VERY light coats of paint itself.

[bacteria]

Only stuff I can get in the shops I have visited in the UK is Plasti-Kote paint range. For whatever reason, that is appears available here - apart from enamel paint which I tried a while back and the result was awful. Fortunately it is good paint, maybe not as good as the two brands you mention, but I have to use what I can get hold of!

[Niode]

Yeah the only spray paint we have over here that is readily available is plasti-cote. It gets the job done though, never had any real issues with it before.

The console is coming along nicely, can't wait to see the finished product!

[DNT 2.5]

You usually cant get it locally, You can order it from Japan but some model stores might be so kind as to order you some!