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Just one of my rides. Ain't she a beaut.

Forlorn Drifter wrote:Well, blegh.

As far as I can tell, my car is not going to be a runner anytime soon. Apparently, getting to be a stroker isn't a problem as much as finding parts to do it is...

Of course, I was thinking of getting something to hop up besides this one, on the side. Probably a truck or something, but a car is still an option. Or a trike...?

A recap of what is wrong with your car?

CRTGAMER wrote:

Forlorn Drifter wrote:Well, blegh.

As far as I can tell, my car is not going to be a runner anytime soon. Apparently, getting to be a stroker isn't a problem as much as finding parts to do it is...

Of course, I was thinking of getting something to hop up besides this one, on the side. Probably a truck or something, but a car is still an option. Or a trike...?

A recap of what is wrong with your car?

Carburetor needs to be tweaked. Nothing big, just don't have the talent to do it myself and haven't gotten it to the shop yet.

The 351M was just not a popular motor. Not much after market support, and what is there is mostly third party.

Forlorn Drifter wrote:Carburetor needs to be tweaked. Nothing big, just don't have the talent to do it myself and haven't gotten it to the shop yet.

The 351M was just not a popular motor. Not much after market support, and what is there is mostly third party.

Year, Make and Model?
351 Cleveland Ford? Older cars are real simple to adjust. A quick and very easy thing you can readily do is setting the idle speed and idle mixture screws. Get a repair manual that shows pictures of the carb so you can locate them.

Engine Off Cold
Verify the choke closes when the engine is cold by cracking the throttle. There is a fast idle cam that kicks up the speed a little that has a separate idle speed screw adjustment. This should be set just a little higher then the hot idle speed screw to keep the motor running when cold.

Engine Off Warm
Count clockwise the number each screw takes to bottom do not over tighten, just snug into the seats. If one side is off from the other, take the average and open them back up the same or close to the same amount of turns.

Engine On and Warmed Up
With the motor running, you can bring each mixture screw in or out a little to get the smoothest run. Ideally a carbon sensor in the tail pipe will be the best, but thats a shop test equipment. I just bring the mixture screws in until a little rough idle then bring them out half a turn, keeping both equal. Adjust the idle speed to the correct RPM from the manual. I like setting mine on the low side to cut down on a rough shift into gear.

One thing about carberated engines, especially when cold and in cold weather is how to start it up. After a few pumps of the throttle to accelerator pump squirt of raw gas, RELEASE THE FOOT BEFORE STARTING. The idea is to keep the fast idle cam full engaged once the motor fires up. The adjustments set beforehand helps this work for a hands er foot off warmup of the motor. Holding the pedal down while starting prevents this since the choke plate wings open a little.

Its a 351 M, or Modified. Its in the same family, but quite a bit different from a Cleveland. The 400 is the most comparable motor.

Honestly though, due to how my schedule gets right about this time of year, its really easier to take it in right now.

car, none. motorbike, yes.



kymco agility 125cc (2008) for about 4 years now. can't beat 5 dollars for gas a week

My daily driver is a 1991 chevrolet 1500 single cab SS model. Factory 454 and all that jazz. Just hit 80,000 miles.

My real baby is my grandad's 1978 caprice coupe. Only has had a whopping 32,000 miles on it since it was new. It's black with a white vinyl top and white leather interior.

johnny turbo wrote:My daily driver is a 1991 chevrolet 1500 single cab SS model. Factory 454 and all that jazz. Just hit 80,000 miles.

My real baby is my grandad's 1978 caprice coupe. Only has had a whopping 32,000 miles on it since it was new. It's black with a white vinyl top and white leather interior.

Pics, especially that big block!

I have pictures on my iphone but i dont have a computer ATM. My Macbook is off being serviced. Is there any way to downsize pictures on a phone? Yeah i love driving a big block, but with 230 HP sometimes it doesn't feeel like it's worth it. It does have a whopping 385 lb of torque though. It could pull a mountain! Oh yeah, 10 MPG! Take that Hybrids. Also i have no cat on it. We have no emission laws where i live. Ripped that off and converted it to straight pipes. I is supposed to get 10MPG but i doubt i even get that any more. The last time i checked i got 8. It wouldn't be a problem if i didn't drive a 60 mile round trip to work 5 days a week.

1991 Honda Civic DX Hatchback.

I'm the third owner and it's not a bad car, it's had a very bad last owner, but it's not too far gone, and considering I only paid $650 for a vintage 5-Speed Honda I'm more than OK with the condition.

Motor: Stock 1.5L, Inline-4, D15A2 head and manifold, with a semi-fresh D15Y7 block courtesy of the last owner's idiocy. Overall it's the most tired motor I've ever had in a car and is going to get a nice rebuild when I can swing it. It smokes, sputters and has some of the worst idle issues I've dealt with, but it's not anything un-fixable. It still has the stock dual-point injection system that makes for no power at the wheels and no fun at the pedals. But I have a quad-point injection manifold ready to upgrade the car with when I have all the necessary components.

Transmission: Stock short geared, and unrefined but liveable, DX Transmission with stock shifter and OEM weighted shift knob. Hopefully a '91 Civic Si transmission is coming my way soon via a local with a clean shell he's parting out.

Wheels: OEM 1991 CRX Si whirlwind wheels, painted dark metallic gunmetal, missing center-caps from last owner. Sitting on half-decent Falken rubber with a tick of cupping/camber wear, but hopefully some fresh Michelin or Goodyear tires are coming, and soon.

Suspension: Stock ride height on factory suspension in the front, while the last owner cut the rear springs making the back end soggy and 'blegh' to deal with when driving. But, factory replacement springs and struts are dirt cheap, and can be had anywhere, so it's one less thing to worry about when I eventually get around to it. I already had one control arm go bad because of his shit lowering job, so I'm going to be undoing it ASAP.

Exhaust: Loud, LOUD, L.O.U.D. Straight pipe sucks, and I don't care what anyone says. It's loud, rude, obnoxious and grates on my damn nerves. Plus it basically vibrates the damn car to pieces and screws with everything. The last owner saw it fit to cut out the cat too, so there isn't even the smallest reprieve for the soul sucking rice-ness of this cars freaking awful exhaust. Far and away this is my biggest gripe with the car, bar none, and I'm putting a muffler on the second I have some damn cash.

This is how it looked on the day I bought it:


This is how I want it to look, clean and classy: