There is someone in my town selling the Sony stand for the FV300. I had intended to buy it to use with a FV310, since the dimensions of the two models are identical.
Vertical pincushion should be easy to fix via the service mode. While the TV is off, press, in order: DISPLAY, 5, CH+, POWER. When the screen comes up with the settings, press 1/4 to cycle through the settings and 3/6 to change the values. VBOW or PAMP will be the settings to fix that. Press MUTE, ENTER to save changes.
Usually, a combination of VBOW, VANG, PAMP, LPIN, and UPIN will get the image mostly square. Then it's just a matter of VSIZ/VPOS/HSIZ/HPOS to get it centered and with the right amount of overscan.
Unfortunately, horizontal pincushion and linearity isn't fixable on the non-HD sets. Almost every set I have seen has the image "droop" down along each top corner. Oddly, the set I just acquired is the opposite. The corners peak up.
what type of television do you play your classic consoles on
Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
Selling half my NES/SNES/PS1 collection (ending Dec 1):
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Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
Horizontal pincusion unfortunately, but it's not nearly enough to be distracting. This set has the second best geometry of any set I've had next to the XBR960 I sold to CFFJR
Older. Not wiser.
Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
AppleQueso wrote:If you scroll down there's a handy image that shows that it also has component, s-video, and composite.
It's not a staggering amount, but it does have pretty much everything you'd need.
Bad choice of words?


Xeogred wrote:The obvious answer is that it's time for the Dreamcast 2.
Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
i have a 30" widescreen Philips. its hd so i can't use a lightgun on it but its still a pretty cool tv
Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
A friend recently gave me a Sony KD-34XBR960. I used it for the first time yesterday to play my NES. I never thought a NES could look so good.
At 195 lbs. I have this sitting on a glass TV stand that actually supports it. Though, I'm perpetually afraid that the TV will crash through the glass at some point.
At 195 lbs. I have this sitting on a glass TV stand that actually supports it. Though, I'm perpetually afraid that the TV will crash through the glass at some point.
Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
I'm now the proud owner of a Mitsubishi Megaview 29. It's a presentation monitor, and it's multisync. MAME types and arcade collectors apparently love these for just that reason.
It's got analog RGB inputs, but I haven't had a chance to use them yet as I'm going to have to hack together a cable for it (waiting on some BNC jacks to come in the mail.)
Picture quality is just awesome, photos naturally don't do it justice. CRT technology and digital cameras just don't play well together it seems.


There's a slight pincushion going on, but I'm not sure how to fix that. There's h/v-size and h/v position adjustment knobs, an under/overscan switch, etc on the front, but they don't seem to do anything, at least not on the s-video input.
I'm guessing there's some pots or something on the back that can adjust the geometry for general inputs, but I'm not looking forward to opening this thing up.
This thing's pretty beastly for a 29" TV. I mean the sucker has fans. Fairly powerful sounding ones too.
It's got analog RGB inputs, but I haven't had a chance to use them yet as I'm going to have to hack together a cable for it (waiting on some BNC jacks to come in the mail.)
Picture quality is just awesome, photos naturally don't do it justice. CRT technology and digital cameras just don't play well together it seems.


There's a slight pincushion going on, but I'm not sure how to fix that. There's h/v-size and h/v position adjustment knobs, an under/overscan switch, etc on the front, but they don't seem to do anything, at least not on the s-video input.
I'm guessing there's some pots or something on the back that can adjust the geometry for general inputs, but I'm not looking forward to opening this thing up.
This thing's pretty beastly for a 29" TV. I mean the sucker has fans. Fairly powerful sounding ones too.
Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
I too have a FV300; it's pretty damn amazing... I was going to go for the FV310 but as Zing was saying I settled for the FV300 as it was available at the time and I wasn't sure if I'd be able to get another chance to snag it. Congrats on the find btw Zing! Not like I can trade mine though as it's a 36"...
That thing isn't going anywhere.
I'm curious, to anyone who can answer how does the bright/vivid settings change the TV negatively over time? Is it geometry-related? I changed mine to Movie and calibrated as best to my abilities as I could when I got it; the previous owners had a lot of processing on by default. My geometry is pretty wonky (not noticeable in most cases though; only when there's straight lines going across the screen).
Big post coming up.... RyaNtheSlayA, how's the sharpness for you? I can't seem to find an optimal setting for it; either it's way too damn blurry or the too much sharpness causes tons of nasty artifacts. Somehow, I find the the Dynablack's boosted sharpness comes with a lot less artifacts (ex. ghosting, ringing, lines around pixels, etc.) which is more tolerable, but I sincerely hate how it messes with the color. Lots of detail simply disappears and it has this grainy effect to it, yet turning it off makes it too blurry, and the main sharpness setting at the level that the Dynablack would be has way more artifacts somehow, but at least the colors are correct with the main sharpness control
Some scenes in games just really suck with Dynablack on (two different colors can meld into one solid color that's completely wrong, transparency effects look like they're dithered like the Saturn, Goldeneye 007 looks like it has this dither pattern over the whole screen etc.) but for instance 480i 3D games just look weird being so blurry and the main sharpness just makes it nasty when it's at a normal level, versus Dynablack being on. I really want to leave Dynablack off obviously and somehow find a sharpness level that matches others' screenshots of RGB on CRT monitors that I see online; looks nice and sharp and is what it is (with nothing "extra"). I'm wondering do you have this sort of thing going on with yours? Maybe there's something in the service menu that can effect sharpness that would help (Zing)? I also wonder if there might be something wrong with the set cuz even with the sharpness super low I notice it seems like there's outlines (ghost/ringing?) over everything, even with some native component 480i PS2 stuff plugged straight into the TV as well as my RGB to component 240p stuff.

I'm curious, to anyone who can answer how does the bright/vivid settings change the TV negatively over time? Is it geometry-related? I changed mine to Movie and calibrated as best to my abilities as I could when I got it; the previous owners had a lot of processing on by default. My geometry is pretty wonky (not noticeable in most cases though; only when there's straight lines going across the screen).
Big post coming up.... RyaNtheSlayA, how's the sharpness for you? I can't seem to find an optimal setting for it; either it's way too damn blurry or the too much sharpness causes tons of nasty artifacts. Somehow, I find the the Dynablack's boosted sharpness comes with a lot less artifacts (ex. ghosting, ringing, lines around pixels, etc.) which is more tolerable, but I sincerely hate how it messes with the color. Lots of detail simply disappears and it has this grainy effect to it, yet turning it off makes it too blurry, and the main sharpness setting at the level that the Dynablack would be has way more artifacts somehow, but at least the colors are correct with the main sharpness control

Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
First, I would reset the settings by holding the "reset" button on the remote while powering on. Then set the picture mode to "pro". This will give you fairly accurate greyscale and disables both VM and Dynablack. Sharpness seems to be reasonable at the default, middle level. On my set, using a sharpness test pattern, the most accurate setting appears to be a few notches below the middle.
If you have ringing or outlines with VM and Dynablack disabled, and sharpness at minimum, then something is wrong. I am aware of no service mode setting to fix this.
The vivid setting will not affect geometry long-term. How it can harm a CRT long-term is by causing phosphor wear. To put it simply, all CRTs will get less bright over time. The more bright you have the settings, the faster this happens. This shouldn't be too much of a concern on a Sony made since 1999 or so. They either have white-level limiting circuitry, or are just more robust tubes. They don't exhibit the traditional "blooming" even with white-level maxed. They will distort the image due to weak power supplies, but shouldn't damage the tube.
Geometry on a 36" tube in particular will be difficult to get correct. The larger the tube, the more it is affected by magnetic fields (even the earth's!) and the more sensitive it is to convergence errors. You can fix anything except horizontal bow on your TV using the service menu. Ideally, you will have a DVD with a crosshatch pattern when adjusting geometry. I use a DVD called "Avia", but I have heard some Star Wars DVDs have THX test patterns on the disc.
If you have ringing or outlines with VM and Dynablack disabled, and sharpness at minimum, then something is wrong. I am aware of no service mode setting to fix this.
The vivid setting will not affect geometry long-term. How it can harm a CRT long-term is by causing phosphor wear. To put it simply, all CRTs will get less bright over time. The more bright you have the settings, the faster this happens. This shouldn't be too much of a concern on a Sony made since 1999 or so. They either have white-level limiting circuitry, or are just more robust tubes. They don't exhibit the traditional "blooming" even with white-level maxed. They will distort the image due to weak power supplies, but shouldn't damage the tube.
Geometry on a 36" tube in particular will be difficult to get correct. The larger the tube, the more it is affected by magnetic fields (even the earth's!) and the more sensitive it is to convergence errors. You can fix anything except horizontal bow on your TV using the service menu. Ideally, you will have a DVD with a crosshatch pattern when adjusting geometry. I use a DVD called "Avia", but I have heard some Star Wars DVDs have THX test patterns on the disc.
Selling half my NES/SNES/PS1 collection (ending Dec 1):
http://tinyurl.com/zingebay
http://tinyurl.com/zingebay
Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
Zing wrote:If you have ringing or outlines with VM and Dynablack disabled, and sharpness at minimum, then something is wrong. I am aware of no service mode setting to fix this.
Yeah it seems the "default" non-processed/"nothing on" pure image has ghosting over the whole thing. I would guess the Dynablack artificially blends them together into a solid image which looks good in a lot of cases and absolutely wretched in others. Turning up the normal sharpness also has this blurry look to it even up to near the top as I guess it's also doing the same for the ghosting. I'm curious if you notice ghosting (aka sprites appear like they have a transparent double of itself next to it/behind it) when all processing is off and sharpness is at a very low setting, or it simply looks like a blurry solid image? I ask the same for RyaNtheSlayA as he has the same model that I do!
I picked these out from the service menu manual by the way; any ideas about them before I mess with some stuff? Could Pre-shoot/Over-shoot be related? I also suspect chroma delay or whatever defines that with component (YUV), though I'm grasping for straws here. SSHP seems to sharpen things up like the user sharpness setting.
Re: what type of television do you play your classic console
I have no ringing or halos on either my FS120 or FV310. Sharpness at minimum is simply a soft but solid image. No halos. I only see any sort of halos if I enable VM and turn up sharpness.
Maybe your VM is somehow set incorrectly in the service menu. I have never tinkered with any of the setting you mention, since most have no effect on anything I need to fix or require a measuring device to calibrate properly.
Maybe your VM is somehow set incorrectly in the service menu. I have never tinkered with any of the setting you mention, since most have no effect on anything I need to fix or require a measuring device to calibrate properly.
Selling half my NES/SNES/PS1 collection (ending Dec 1):
http://tinyurl.com/zingebay
http://tinyurl.com/zingebay