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bmoc wrote:Just polyurethane. Four coats on the top. Three on everything else. I accept that I may have to sand down the top and refinish every few years if it gets super discolored from use.

Water or oil based? Which brand?

With 4 coats and light sanding in between i'd think you could get a couple years before any maintenance is needed.

This one. I used the aerosol version.

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-water-based-oilmodified-polyurethane

EDIT: Sorry it was this one which is a little different: http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-33050-Fast ... 0009XELPS/ So probably oil water based since it is the fast drying kind? It doesn't say on the can.

If you get that thing in the sun a bit, it'll get this glorious finish coming out of it in a couple years.

It looks very nice. I like the elegant arcade stuff I see from time to time.

bmoc wrote:The Cthulhu PCB works with

PS3
PS2
PSX
PC
Gamecube
Wii through Gamecube controller support
Original Xbox
Dreamcast
Sega Saturn
TurboGrafx-16/PC-Engine
NES/Famicom
SNES/Super Famicom

Very nice job! I am curious how the PCB connects to various games consoles, from what looks like a USB jack? Electrically it supports the consoles you mentioned, but I am guessing you would have to add a specific cable for each console wired to each terminal inside?

CRTGAMER wrote:

bmoc wrote:The Cthulhu PCB works with

PS3
PS2
PSX
PC
Gamecube
Wii through Gamecube controller support
Original Xbox
Dreamcast
Sega Saturn
TurboGrafx-16/PC-Engine
NES/Famicom
SNES/Super Famicom

Very nice job! I am curious how the PCB connects to various games consoles, from what looks like a USB jack? Electrically it supports the consoles you mentioned, but I am guessing you would have to add a specific cable for each console wired to each terminal inside?

RJ-45 (Ethernet/Cat5) jack actually -- unless there's a new version I'm unaware of (I can't actually see the pics from work)

Basically you wire up the PCB to a jack, then take controller extensions and wire them to the RJ-45 jack in particular ways that you're told to, and then MAGIC. I really want to make my own pair one of these days.

And as to wiring them for Neo as well, I think people just do a whole separate set of wires independent of the MC Cthulhu since Neo buttons are just wired straightforward, no PCBs necessary. I think. Not positive on that.

KalessinDB wrote:RJ-45 (Ethernet/Cat5) jack actually -- unless there's a new version I'm unaware of (I can't actually see the pics from work)

Basically you wire up the PCB to a jack, then take controller extensions and wire them to the RJ-45 jack in particular ways that you're told to, and then MAGIC. I really want to make my own pair one of these days.

This. I had to make a Saturn cable myself but RJ45 to USB, PS1/2, and Dreamcast are readily available at Focusattack.com. I sacrificed a barely working ASCII Saturn Stick for my cord.

Here are detailed instructions on how to get it working on multiple consoles http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/ ... l-ver-2/p1

It does have a USB port on the board so you can get PC/PS3 support with zero soldering if you prefer.

Man, that is so clean. One of the best gaming purchases i've ever made was a RJ-45 TE Kitty modded TE Stick. It's allowed me to use me single TE stick for virtually every console that I own. Even though it's visually seen better days, the universal fightstick mods are invaluable. It's something that I always forget about when I have the money, but i'd love to build my own fightstick. Great job with the black buttons/stick on the wood, it looks really fresh.

Nice work. I'm jealous.

Awesome! Great job! Hickory is a good choice. It isn't too soft, isn't too heavy, and has a nice look to it.

bmoc wrote:Just polyurethane. Four coats on the top. Three on everything else. I accept that I may have to sand down the top and refinish every few years if it gets super discolored from use.

Why not use a lacquer instead of polyurethane? It'd be able to take a beaten, and the most you'd have to do is clean it off with a paper towel and Windex or something.

Lacquer is a perfectly good choice too. Polyurethane is a little more durable which is why it can be used on floors. In my opinion, to do lacquer really well you need a professional sprayer. I could have borrowed one from my dad but I haven't used one in 15 years or so. I figured the aerosol polyurethane would produce the best results at my skill level (and I wouldn't have to drive 1.5 hours to return the sprayer).