Should I get a SNES 1Chip or SNES Mini with RGB mod?

[Tanooki]

Not that it helps, but if you wanted to buy a boxed system, the Donkey Kong Set has a 1CHIP in all of them, it's just how they went out. Killer Instinct is almost the same case, but you have a percentage of a chance of getting that post 1CHIP shit board that really has the poorest video quality so it's a gamble.

It's the system I have, did some research on it once I had it as I was curious about 1CHIP before but never dug much into it. I just noticed it looked as nice as my mini I got rid of after buying it, yet it was also notably better than the original SNES I had since launch before the mini.

[Mad_Hatter]

Does neither TV have S-Video?

This is a little embarrassing. Got a little caught up, and forgot that the SNES had S-Video.

I'll probably just get a regular SNES, and use S-Video. If ever really want RGB perfection that bad, I'll probably just buy a mini down the line.

I just meant that, if you want to get a 1chip revision, getting the mini makes it easier since all minis use the 1chip.

ok. Thanks. Didn't know about that.

Not that it helps, but if you wanted to buy a boxed system, the Donkey Kong Set has a 1CHIP in all of them, it's just how they went out. Killer Instinct is almost the same case, but you have a percentage of a chance of getting that post 1CHIP shit board that really has the poorest video quality so it's a gamble.

It's the system I have, did some research on it once I had it as I was curious about 1CHIP before but never dug much into it. I just noticed it looked as nice as my mini I got rid of after buying it, yet it was also notably better than the original SNES I had since launch before the mini.

This actually does help thanks. Sometimes you have boxed systems for good prices.

[Ziggy]

I'm confused why did you mod your regular model SNES don't they all output RGB? I thought just minis had to be modded.

I actually did the same, as well as the person that posted this thread. The first time I needed the RGB output I was using a transcoder with BNC (which I adapter to RCA) connectors. So instead of buying a cable, I just output RGBs over RCA cables. The person that made that thread was using a Sony PVM.

It might be overkill, but it should actually be better quality this way. SCART cables, if shielded, are like most other AV cables. Especially the hand made ones that are common on eBay these days. You'll find all the signals shielded together, but not from each other. The R, G, B and audio channels can interfere with each other. Using separate RCA cables for each signal, all the signals are isolated from each other.

also according to this site , which ive used for all my RGB research, the Snes Mini has better RGB quality than the 1chip. But again, the 1chip is pretty solid for my purposes

http://retrorgb.com/snesversioncompare.html

The SNES mini IS the 1chip. The mini has all the same hardware that you'd find in a 1chip SNES, just a redesigned motherboard. It doesn't have better or worse RGB quality. It should have the SAME quality. The mini requires a mod to output RGB. If the RGB looks different on a mini then it does on a 1chip, it's because the mod to out RGB isn't correct.

Not that it helps, but if you wanted to buy a boxed system, the Donkey Kong Set has a 1CHIP in all of them, it's just how they went out.

Unless the original owner swap the consoles for some reason. The original console could have been lost, stolen, brokem, etc and was replaced. He could have just had multiple consoles and doesn't know which is which. He could have just had the box and decided to buy a console to put in it to sell.

Killer Instinct is almost the same case, but you have a percentage of a chance of getting that post 1CHIP shit board that really has the poorest video quality so it's a gamble.

Umm... what? That's the first I'm hearing about this. Links?

[Tanooki]

Alright here's what I have, this is stuff I dug up when I got mine. My system came locally just over inside Indiana from an original owner.

http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/sh ... S-revision

That's the revision info, check JimmyCrackCorns posts as he does all the information on the revisions basically in the thread.

Here's some more breakdowns and comparisons.
http://retrorgb.com/snesversioncompare.html
http://retrorgb.com/1chipsnes.html

This has some nice mouse over imagery for comparison (over to see 1chip, away it's not)
http://sd2snes.de/blog/archives/75

[Ziggy]

I was really only looking for info on this "post 1chip shit board" model. I'm already aware of everything else.

I was looking for something less opinion and more fact based. "The RGB-02 which came out after the 1CHIP looks just as crappy as everything before the 1CHIP" isn't really doing anything for me. Especially since every one seems to see different things. He never explains WHY it's crappy, just that it is.

Once it was "discovered" that the 1chip/mini has a noticeably brighter and sharper picture, every one hopped on the bandwagon of it being better. Myself included. But these days, I'm not so sure. There's instances of the mini actually being too bright. And as for being sharper, well, sharper doesn't always mean better. It can actually be too sharp, and depending on your TV, look really bad. Of course, it's all relative to the observer. Complicated further by what connection type they're using, quality of the cables, what type of TV they're using, if the TV is properly calibrated, etc. Simply reading "this revision is better because of this" posted by some random guy doesn't convince me of anything.

If you wanna read some good counter points, then here ya go:

viewtopic.php?p=783428#p783428

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=46303

Debated, of course, over several pages.

[Mad_Hatter]

How much would you guys pay for an unyellowed SNES?

Most of the ones on eBay have yellowed or at least one of the plastic plates is darkened while the others stay the same, which I find annoying. I don't mind some dinks and scratches. But I can't have a console with that many colors.

Found some that are unyellowed with uniform color, but those go for 60 bucks just for the console.

Been leaning towards a Mini now since the color will be the same.

[Ziggy]

If you have other consoles and/or accessories that are yellowed, then maybe look into Retr0bright. The cost of the ingredients wouldn't be worth it just to get a cheaper SNES, but if you have a few things that could be un-yellowed then it might be worth it.

[Mad_Hatter]

If you have other consoles and/or accessories that are yellowed, then maybe look into Retr0bright. The cost of the ingredients wouldn't be worth it just to get a cheaper SNES, but if you have a few things that could be un-yellowed then it might be worth it.

Yea, I saw a few videos on YouTube. Like you said though, the ingredients will cost me like 35-50 dollars. Which would be worth it if I had other things to use it on, but I don't.

I still might consider it though.

Anyway, do you know if this method will remove logos (like the dark super nintendo logo on the top faceplate)? And what about the finish and shine of a console? Will this method remove that as well?

[Ziggy]

Well the SNES isn't shiny, so you don't have to worry about that. In fact, I can't think of a console that would yellow AND is glossy. As for the logos, I've seen videos of people applying the Retr0bright right over logos and not affecting them. I've also seen several before and after pics and they look unaffected. Still, whenever I get around to using Retr0bright myself, I plan to go light over logos just in case. At least for a first go (I've seen instances where people had to apply the Retr0bright multiple times before getting rid of the yellow completely) just in case my batch is made wrong or some how potent or something. What's important to understand is what Retr0bright is actually doing. It's having a chemical reaction with the plastic. It's not a cleaning solution, you're not cleaning the console. This is why it doesn't seem to affect logos and whatnot.

“This got me thinking, and after some really 'full-on', serious chemistry discussions with other EAB members, like Rkauer in Brazil, who is a plastics Engineer and my good friend Zetr0 from Kings Lynn, Norfolk, UK, who endured endless phone calls from me, we wrote some epic threads on English Amiga Board about the possible causes of the yellowing and eventually we arrived at the theory that it was the Bromine in the flame retardant that was the cause. We also knew that Ultra Violet light was another major factor. Having identified the culprit, the next stage was to try to develop and perfect a means of treating the plastic and reversing the yellowing quicker, without causing damage to the plastic. Being a former industrial chemist helped me tremendously, in understanding what was going on at the molecular level and to develop a treatment process to reverse the effect.”

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

[Mad_Hatter]

Thanks Ziggy.