Does this Super Metroid need a new save battery?

[AppleQueso]

I'd be interested in one of those tabbed batteries Hobie-wan. I've never done this before, but it doesn't sound too difficult to learn and it's a skill that'll certainly come in handy in the future.

Anyway, should I ask for a partial refund from the seller I got the game from?

[Jontendo]

Or if you want to stand about 15 feet back while I do some soldering...

[Hobie-wan]

I'd be interested in one of those tabbed batteries Hobie-wan. I've never done this before, but it doesn't sound too difficult to learn and it's a skill that'll certainly come in handy in the future.

Have you soldered before or watched the video Ziggy and I post all the time? It isn't hard. A cheap soldering iron (as long as the tip is in good shape), some rosin core solder, and some desoldering wick or a bulb will do you.

Anyway, should I ask for a partial refund from the seller I got the game from?

I'd mention that it doesn't save before you do anything yeah. See what they say first. If they offer a partial refund, go for it. If they talk about sending it back, then say you might have a go at fixing it and ask for a partial.

[AppleQueso]

I'd be interested in one of those tabbed batteries Hobie-wan. I've never done this before, but it doesn't sound too difficult to learn and it's a skill that'll certainly come in handy in the future.

Have you soldered before or watched the video Ziggy and I post all the time? It isn't hard. A cheap soldering iron (as long as the tip is in good shape), some rosin core solder, and some desoldering wick or a bulb will do you.

Yeah, I've got soldering experience. Battery replacement specifically is something I haven't done.

Anyway, should I ask for a partial refund from the seller I got the game from?

I'd mention that it doesn't save before you do anything yeah. See what they say first. If they offer a partial refund, go for it. If they talk about sending it back, then say you might have a go at fixing it and ask for a partial.

Alright, will do.

[Ziggy]

You don't really need any braids or bulbs to remove the battery. What I normally do is slip a thin flat head screwdriver under the battery, heat the negative (smaller) leg's pad until the solder melts, then pry the negative leg out with the screwdriver. Then repeat for the positive leg, only I'll use my hand to yank the battery out.

If you have a voltage meter, you could always check the voltage of the battery to confirm if it's dead or not. They're 3 volt batteries, so you'll be wanting a reading slightly over 3 volts. Normally, I'll change the battery out if it's anything under 3.02 volts. You should get a reading of 3.04-.3.08 from a strong battery. I think I might have even had a battery test 3.1v before.

It's also worth checking your "new" battery. You'd be surprised to see how often you'll get "new" batteries that are actually VERY old, even though they're still sealed in packaging. I've bought CR2032 batteries before that tested lower than 3 volts right out of the packaging. That being said, try and stay away from the super deal no name brand eBay auctions. You're likely to get a weak battery. Even if it tests strong when you get it, it's not likely to last as long as a good brand name battery. You'll notice that all the batteries in your SNES carts are brand names like Panasonic and Sony, that might be a reason why they last so long.

[Hobie-wan]

I've got carts with original batteries reading ~2.5v and they're just fine FWIW. I figure sucking up the old solder and laying down fresh is a good idea with a new battery. Name brand tabbed batteries are unfortunately hard to come by.

[Ziggy]

Ah, I forgot to say. If you pull the battery out using my method, you'll pull some solder off when you pull the legs out. You'll have to use more solder when installing the new battery. Not a problem mixing the new solder with the old solder still on the board, the flux will make it work. I just find it easier doing it this way than using a braid or bulb.

A lot of SRAM chips that I've looked at actually have a decent range of voltage that can be supplied to it from a battery when the power is cut. I don't know what the range is on SRAM found in SNES carts (not that I've ever bothered to try and find a data sheet for one, but I assume Google'ing the part numbers on them would be dead ends). Anyway, since I don't know the cut off, I like to play it safe. It's a 3v battery, so if it's under 3v then it's technically dead and should be replaced. Though I'm sure if I checked the batteries in all my SNES carts I'd probably find a few under 3v. Hell, I'm sure I'd find a few in my NES carts.

[Jontendo]

...and use some lead-bearing solder. That's what they came with in the 90's, it's easier to make good connections with and it's still a better long-term solution (IMO).

[GameMasterGuy]

You can find the game for under $20... is this really worth so much effort?

[Jontendo]

You can find the game for under $20... is this really worth so much effort?

If he can solder and replace a $3 battery, sure!