Saturn and 32" lcd tv

[Merak]

ok, thanks!
i think that invest 100€ or more for an upscaler is a bit too much, considering that, i paid the saturn with 12 games, 2 pads, the lightgun 21€ lol

[Assman]

Yeah, an upscaler isn't going to make any real difference. My Genesis didn't look any better going through an HDMI converter that upscales to 720p than it does now going through a non-upscaling component converter.

[Niode]

This is one of the reasons you check that the TV you're buying is fit for purpose. My 42" plasma looks great displaying my SNES/PS1 etc, because it's got one of the best upscalers on the market. It's pretty much the main reason I bought it (aside from the awesome picture quality on plasmas). I'd take a picture of it running my SNES via RGB, but my ex-fiancée took the digital camera away with her when she moved out. Annoying.

[Merak]

ohhh, i see.
Which upscaler did u get? and how much was for it?
(hope u didn't end up with the upscaler instead of a gift for her!!! j/K!

[Niode]

No, it's part of the TV. The upscalers in the Vierra are highly regarded as being the best integrated upscalers of any TV. If you want a good upscaler for old consoles then you should definitely get an XRGB.

[CRTGAMER]

Maybe also that its a Plasma. No Dot Crawl issues of the LCD.

In contrast to LCD displays, plasma televisions and CRT TVs have a virtually instantaneous response time.

This is mainly limited by the speed of their video processing engine rather than by the time it takes to fire the display phosphor; this is in the order of nano-seconds as against the milliseconds required for the liquid crystals to change state in LCD panels. In this respect, LCD panels still have a long way to go.

Yet, there is a further technical difference between the two technologies that renders plasma superior when it comes to pixel response time. Control of pixel intensity in a plasma display does not rely on the same drive process used in an LCD panel. In an LCD display, a minor adjustment in pixel intensity level is brought about by altering the drive signal in very small steps to adjust the twisting action of the liquid crystals, and which in turn controls the amount of light reaching the surface.

http://www.practical-home-theater-guide ... -time.html

[parahaps]

Niode: If you don't mind me asking, what are you using to connect your SNES to the plasma via RGB? Does your TV have SCART, or are you using a SCART->Component converter or what?

I've got a Viera G15, and I'm (needless to say) unimpressed with how my SFC and Saturn look through s-video and composite.

[Niode]

Niode: If you don't mind me asking, what are you using to connect your SNES to the plasma via RGB? Does your TV have SCART, or are you using a SCART->Component converter or what?

I've got a Viera G15, and I'm (needless to say) unimpressed with how my SFC and Saturn look through s-video and composite.

RGB SCART. I have 2 RGB SCART sockets on the back, and a 3 socket RGB SCART Switch. The RGB Switch can enable/disable RGB with a button press, it's a huge difference between having RGB and not - clear as day. I'd take a picture, but I don't have a camera until the iPhone 4 comes out (I already sold my old iPhone).

[parahaps]

RGB SCART. I have 2 RGB SCART sockets on the back, and a 3 socket RGB SCART Switch. The RGB Switch can enable/disable RGB with a button press, it's a huge difference between having RGB and not - clear as day. I'd take a picture, but I don't have a camera until the iPhone 4 comes out (I already sold my old iPhone).

Ah, thanks. I see now that you're in the UK. I've a US model, so I just have the usual North American inputs to work with: Composite, s-video, component, HDMI, VGA. I've been working for a while on figuring out the best way to get the old systems hooked up. $300+ for an XRGB2/3 is just more than I want to spend.

[CRTGAMER]

RGB SCART. I have 2 RGB SCART sockets on the back, and a 3 socket RGB SCART Switch. The RGB Switch can enable/disable RGB with a button press, it's a huge difference between having RGB and not - clear as day. I'd take a picture, but I don't have a camera until the iPhone 4 comes out (I already sold my old iPhone).

Ah, thanks. I see now that you're in the UK. I've a US model, so I just have the usual North American inputs to work with: Composite, s-video, component, HDMI, VGA. I've been working for a while on figuring out the best way to get the old systems hooked up. $300+ for an XRGB2/3 is just more than I want to spend.

From my CRT vs LCD signature link.

Retro consoles utilizing best available video output are best on HD CRT:
S-video best connection N64, PS1 and Dreamcast, VGA on Dreamcast if your TV supports it. Component best connection for Gamecube, PS2 and X-box. If you have Scart RGB (Europe) Dreamcast and Xbox can utilize that mode.

PLASMA or LCD are great for current generation machines. The 360 and PS3 with best connection being HDMI. Wii best connection available is Component.



In testing all the various video input options, results the worst to the best:

Resolution limited to 480i and below
RF - Don't bother unless you play games with eyes closed.
Composite - lot of color bleeding and blur.
S-Video - clean images.

Resolution can go 480p up to 1080P
Component - Analog Image resolution up
DVI and HDMI - Best image being all digital

VGA - Unique to Dreamcast Analog 640x480 Similar to 480p