N64 Controller Help/Recommendations

[Ziggy]

Use an old toothbrush and you'll be done in a few minutes instead of waiting on it to soak.

There was the strangest crud in the crevasses, and it was hard too. I let it soak while I was doing other stuff, so I figured it would save some time. When I rinsed the parts, most of the dirt and grim just fell off.

The Amazon seller got back to me. He has it listed in "New" condition, I asked him if it's actually new and he replied...

No it been used but Its it perfect condition and I only had it for like 6 months.

OK... so it's USED.

So I'm using the fixed joystick now, and I don't think the results are that great. The joystick is still loose, which I can tolerate as long as it plays fine. I have one controller with a tight joystick, so I'm comparing it to that. The fixed joystick doesn't feel as smooth, it still has a slight "chunky" feeling to it. Maybe I should have put more lubricant on it? I only lubed the gears, I didn't lub all of the parts that rub. Maybe that's why?

I really can't tell if it's more responsive or not though, which is my main concern. I've been playing Ocarina of Time, and since I have to walk/run large distances, it's a huge pain in the ass when I'm holding forward then all of sudden Link isn't running full speed. So I have to push the joystick up hard to make him run, which is annoying mostly because it's uncomfortable.

[Troglodyte]

There is information on the web and an assembly language program
for using Gamecube controllers with the Nintendo 64 system.

If you could pull up the link for that, that'd be awesome. Sounds like it could be pretty complicated, though, unless all it is is wiring a joystick to an EPROM, then the EPROM to the PCB in the controller... that's not too bad at all. Though fitting the EPROM inside the controller might be a little hard.

I found the links again; the author of the project entitled it Cube64.
I had a bit of trouble finding it again, since there exists a N64 emulator for the
Gamecube also entitled Cube64; which is a derivative of the N64 emulator for
the Wii, named Wii64.

Anyway, here are the relevant links:
http://cia.vc/stats/project/navi-misc/cube64
http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29329

There are currently two versions of the Cube64 hardware:

- The "Cube64 Basic" uses a very common PIC16F84A microcontroller, and
requires an external 5V power supply. Just about any electronics hobbyist
should be able to build it easily.

- The "Cube64 Mini" uses a tiny 8-pin PIC12F629 microcontroller, and
includes a charge pump that generates the 5V supply for the rumble motor.
It is smaller and more convenient than the Cube64 Basic, but it requires
a less common microcontroller and a charge pump that's only available
in surface mount packages.

I could burn the EPROM for you so you could try it. Or I could recommend a cheap programmer for you (since you're also interested in repros). There are some very affordable ones out there.

That would be awesome.
Though, I'd like to see if you are successful first.
I don't have the time or money to spend on this
right now until I get a new job; but if you could
send me the information on the cheap EPROM
burner / progrrammer; that would be great.

Thanks a lot; let me know how you make
out if you end up deciding to do this.

[Ziggy]

Oh, shit, I read your first post wrong. I guess I have 'selective reading' lol. I didn't realize it was to use a Gamecube controller on the 64, I don't know if I'd be into that. I thought it was to replace the joystick only. Still, it's really cool that some one came up with that. Thanks a lot for the links though, I appreciate it.

And the cheapest programmers you could get are Willem's. Though you need a parallel port to use them. They're about $40 give or take depending on where you get them from. MCUmall improved on them and made a USB version which is easier to use, but it also costs more.

Here's the parallel Willem direct from Sivava...
http://www.sivava.com/EPROM_Programmer_5.html

Here's a parallel one from MCUmall...
http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/c ... oduct=3199

And here's the "true USB" model from MCUmall...
http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/c ... oduct=4225

And here's their new, even more improved, true USB model (which I recently got)...
http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/c ... oduct=4282



So I think I'm gonna go take apart my other flaky joystick and see about that one. This time I'll lub the gears as well as any spots that rub. Maybe I'll even try and stretched the spring a little more this time, too.

edit: Just got done with my second joystick... This time I lubricated ALL the rubbing parts. It doesn't feel that much different than the first one I did. And they're definitely NOT as smooth as my good joystick.

[Ziggy]

So here's my new idea!...

You can't replace the joystick on a Nintendo brand N64 controller because it uses an LED sensor. Well, it's probably possible but it would take a knowledgeable person to get that working, and I'm not that guy

However, you can replace the joystick on a 3rd party controller, so long as it uses the right kind of joystick. I don't like the feel of 3rd party controllers, so I came up with a new idea... how about putting a 3rd party controller with a nice joystick inside a Nintendo brand controller case? This way it's the best of both worlds.

So I guess what I need is a high (or at least decent) quality 3rd party controller that uses a pot type joystick. The quality of the joystick doesn't matter since I plan to use a PS1 or Gamecube stick. The shape / layout doesn't matter, but it can't be bigger than a Nintendo brand controller. And as always, the cheaper the price, the better.

So... any suggestions?

[Troglodyte]

You can't replace the joystick on a Nintendo brand N64 controller because it uses an LED sensor. Well, it's probably possible but it would take a knowledgeable person to get that working, and I'm not that guy

I had no idea it used a LED sensor. Maybe that is why if you turn the system on with the analog stick pushed to the side; it assumes that is the stationary default position. I wonder if the official Gamecube controllers you the same design or not.

[lwcook]

So here's my new idea!...

You can't replace the joystick on a Nintendo brand N64 controller because it uses an LED sensor. Well, it's probably possible but it would take a knowledgeable person to get that working, and I'm not that guy

However, you can replace the joystick on a 3rd party controller, so long as it uses the right kind of joystick. I don't like the feel of 3rd party controllers, so I came up with a new idea... how about putting a 3rd party controller with a nice joystick inside a Nintendo brand controller case? This way it's the best of both worlds.

So I guess what I need is a high (or at least decent) quality 3rd party controller that uses a pot type joystick. The quality of the joystick doesn't matter since I plan to use a PS1 or Gamecube stick. The shape / layout doesn't matter, but it can't be bigger than a Nintendo brand controller. And as always, the cheaper the price, the better.

So... any suggestions?

I was going to suggest this. It's a pretty easy mod as some of the old interact controllers have very similar button spacing as the official controller.

Something like this will do:

Note: Make sure it's one of the older Superpads and not the newer ones. Just look for the big red start button and you should be fine.

Now, as far as the joystick goes, you can simply use the c-stick from an official GC controller for the pot and replace the actual plastic/rubber nub with your preference (ps1 joystick, xbox, gamecube, etc.)

The rest is just slightly modifying everything to fit perfectly in the official shell. I know you are a handy guy so it should be too much of a hassle.

[Ziggy]

Thanks for the info, that's the controller I'll be going with. Big red start button... what do the newer ones have? Just so I know exactly what to looks for. And the C-stick is the only pot I can use for this? I was reading a guide, but it didn't specify. Only that the author used the C-stick.

I had no idea it used a LED sensor. Maybe that is why if you turn the system on with the analog stick pushed to the side; it assumes that is the stationary default position. I wonder if the official Gamecube controllers you the same design or not.

Yeah, it works just like a mouse works. I guess it calibrates when you turn it on, so if you hold it left it thinks it's centered, and then when you center it, it thinks it's being pushed right. This can happen to any joystick though, I think. I've had it happen on the Wii once.

[lwcook]

Thanks for the info, that's the controller I'll be going with. Big red start button... what do the newer ones have? Just so I know exactly what to looks for. And the C-stick is the only pot I can use for this? I was reading a guide, but it didn't specify. Only that the author used the C-stick.

The newer ones have two small gray buttons. One is the start button and the left is a turbo function. Most of the 3rd controllers on ebay will be one of these.

As far as the pot, the c-stick is by far the easiest to work with because it is on a self-contained board. It's definitely the most least-hassle route to take for this reason. Just remove and go.

[Hobie-wan]

Yeah, it works just like a mouse works. I guess it calibrates when you turn it on, so if you hold it left it thinks it's centered, and then when you center it, it thinks it's being pushed right. This can happen to any joystick though, I think. I've had it happen on the Wii once.

Yep, at boot it takes whatever position it is in at as 0, so when you move the stick in interprets each slit that goes by as movement. Since it's counting slits with fixed gearing instead of a variable pot that can change min/max values over time due use and dirt, it doesn't need calibration beyond the starting point at boot.

[Ziggy]

OK, I decided to post this in the Hacks and Mods section here...


http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18947