Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
I did a while back, to me, Tempest is not my type of game and also relies a lot on luck, and Flip-Out didn't interest me. I have Dino Dudes but it reminds me more closely of an Amiga CD32 game and also becomes a chore to play. Just my view, nothing more.
I am the Bacman
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fastbilly1
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Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Fair enough then, aslong as you gave them a shot.
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Wired up the memory card unit but it seemed to stop the console unit working, so must have been faulty. When I removed the unit (removing all the wiring I did to it), the CoreGrafx worked fine, so looks like i'll just run the system without. Not a problem, the memory card only worked for some games. At least the console still works fine, as region free. Wired to the Unity system, but experimenting with the RGB mode, will have to continue that on Thursday, i'm rather busy all day tomorrow.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Got the CoreGrafx installed into the system, a really tight fit, no space at all to play with. Screen is B&W for reasons detailed before, but on my large (modern) televisions, no issues with NTSC in colour.
Just enough space above it, below the game carts, for the on/off switch.
Made one stupid error though, when got to this point, thought, "ok, now let's start with the controller" ... i'd forgot to wire to the game controller port so I have to remove the CoreGrafx from the Unity system (only 2 screws, not a big hassle) and get into the board to wire the controller connections to it. Annoying, a bit of a slip up but nothing much.
Just enough space above it, below the game carts, for the on/off switch.
Made one stupid error though, when got to this point, thought, "ok, now let's start with the controller" ... i'd forgot to wire to the game controller port so I have to remove the CoreGrafx from the Unity system (only 2 screws, not a big hassle) and get into the board to wire the controller connections to it. Annoying, a bit of a slip up but nothing much.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Got the TurboGrafx (CoreGrafx) completed and tested. Here is the internals for the controller in the NES cart.
So, just one final system to do, time to get that Jaguar console out; i'll start (after checking it still works) to wire the game board directly to the console connectors.
I also changed the main grounding cable to thicker 6 amp wire, I think the one I used before was mostly 6 amp but some was 3 amp; never know, that might solve the GBA issue (will test in due course).
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Forgot i'd done as much progress on the Jaguar system when I left it a while back. Decided to keep the cart slot relocated as it was, just removed the game board and put it into place, and attached the folded over cart onto the console board. Job done.
The Jaguar is basically ready to connect to the A/V connections and power lines on the Unity system, which means I can concentrate instead on the controller, getting it far smaller than it is as it won't fit otherwise in my NES cart, and wiring it up so it works as a single game system.
As to the Jaguar's mounting in the Unity system, the only place it can go of course is right at the back of the system, against all the wiring; which is no issue. The back of the console board will attach to the back of the Unity's case, or certainly up against it. Now is the crunch time, seeing if my theory before can make the Jaguar be installable.
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Decided putting in the Jaguar was going to quite painful considering what I would have to do to get it installed and working in the Master Controller, so instead going to incorporate a few plug'n'plays into a NES cart instead, which will be a fair bit of work in itself but will give access to a number of quality games not available on the games I have on other systems; so the payoff will be better anyway. Plug'n'play boards are small so I should be able to get a few quality ones in a NES cart.
So, just one final system to do, time to get that Jaguar console out; i'll start (after checking it still works) to wire the game board directly to the console connectors.
I also changed the main grounding cable to thicker 6 amp wire, I think the one I used before was mostly 6 amp but some was 3 amp; never know, that might solve the GBA issue (will test in due course).
--------
Forgot i'd done as much progress on the Jaguar system when I left it a while back. Decided to keep the cart slot relocated as it was, just removed the game board and put it into place, and attached the folded over cart onto the console board. Job done.
The Jaguar is basically ready to connect to the A/V connections and power lines on the Unity system, which means I can concentrate instead on the controller, getting it far smaller than it is as it won't fit otherwise in my NES cart, and wiring it up so it works as a single game system.
As to the Jaguar's mounting in the Unity system, the only place it can go of course is right at the back of the system, against all the wiring; which is no issue. The back of the console board will attach to the back of the Unity's case, or certainly up against it. Now is the crunch time, seeing if my theory before can make the Jaguar be installable.
---------
Decided putting in the Jaguar was going to quite painful considering what I would have to do to get it installed and working in the Master Controller, so instead going to incorporate a few plug'n'plays into a NES cart instead, which will be a fair bit of work in itself but will give access to a number of quality games not available on the games I have on other systems; so the payoff will be better anyway. Plug'n'play boards are small so I should be able to get a few quality ones in a NES cart.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Here is my idea - flatten plug'n'plays by relocating the capacitors, secure two on the bottom of the NES cart and two on the top, the boards are not large after all. 4 plug'n'plays in one NES cart; each selectable by a switch.
The Unity system has two sets of switches per console, one for A/V and one for controller; so this isn't that different; however this time there is no controller data, but I do need to transmit 6v from the Unity system to the master controller to feed the plug'n'plays; and also the composite and audio from the plug'n'play to the Unity system; plenty of connections for that as the system is quite flexible.
Here is the first plug'n'play ready, although I haven't done the necessary at the Unity system yet regards the above; will do to test, then will install a second plug'n'play into the NES cart.
So, the Project Unity system will end up using 15 unique original hardware console systems into one unit, allowing the use of 18 original console systems' games (ie PS1 plays on PS2, Atari 2600 plays on 7800, and GBA Player on GameCube does GBA); and also 1 plug'n'play unit with 4 units attached.
Here is a pic of the plug'n'play so far, with 1 unit enclosed:
The Unity system has two sets of switches per console, one for A/V and one for controller; so this isn't that different; however this time there is no controller data, but I do need to transmit 6v from the Unity system to the master controller to feed the plug'n'plays; and also the composite and audio from the plug'n'play to the Unity system; plenty of connections for that as the system is quite flexible.
Here is the first plug'n'play ready, although I haven't done the necessary at the Unity system yet regards the above; will do to test, then will install a second plug'n'play into the NES cart.
So, the Project Unity system will end up using 15 unique original hardware console systems into one unit, allowing the use of 18 original console systems' games (ie PS1 plays on PS2, Atari 2600 plays on 7800, and GBA Player on GameCube does GBA); and also 1 plug'n'play unit with 4 units attached.
Here is a pic of the plug'n'play so far, with 1 unit enclosed:
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Ok, it works fine, and first time. The connections on the switch unit closest to the end are the ones for the plug'n'play section.
Going to work on the next one now (no 2 of 4), i'll post pics when all 4 are in the NES cart; I wanted to test the above though to prove proof of concept was sound, eg the plug'n'play was going to get enough amperage to run, even though using slim wires.
When i'm playing plug'n'play games, I can easily flip the switch between the four installed via the switches on the game cart.
Going to work on the next one now (no 2 of 4), i'll post pics when all 4 are in the NES cart; I wanted to test the above though to prove proof of concept was sound, eg the plug'n'play was going to get enough amperage to run, even though using slim wires.
When i'm playing plug'n'play games, I can easily flip the switch between the four installed via the switches on the game cart.
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Well, good news and bad. Good news is I can totally claim to be only using original retro gaming hardware and no clone now; bad news is the reason is because the plug'n'play variation has problems. Basically, the first one I tried worked great, but the next two I tried simply needed more amperage than the long cable was able to give, even if I connected a couple of those wires together. The image got very wavy on the original one that worked, and the others didn't even turn on.
Not a problem, and what it means now is all the systems in the Unity system are all installed.
Tested a few systems to check all was fine and working, and they are; tested the GBA on the GameCube and same issue. I think the problem is in fact not the amperage to the console (GBA Player and GameCube unit) but it insists on having a direct path to the grounding from the voltage source, or it just throws a hissy. What that means is i've had to put in another switch to select when playing GBA games, and remember to switch it off afterwards. I thought in retrospect it made more sense to use the GBA Player as it was an official product and therefore the colours are better than using a GBA Converter for this, which is a third party gadget anyway.
So that means the system ends with 18 systems working on Project Unity.
I just need to make the controller for the GameCube now, then all of those are done too, and can concentrate on making the casing.
One thing now, the switch unit has a spare slot doing nothing. I'm thinking of cutting those posts out and using it as the position for the main system on/off switch, and the old bay, above the CoreGrafx system, for the controller port. Reason is the on/off switch will be in a better position and less crammed; although I have options to consider on the placement of course.
When the casing is finished, which will take a good few hours to do, I have a few overlays to make and design for the keypad on the Master Controller, and also for a few of the NES carts; so plenty to do yet!
Not a problem, and what it means now is all the systems in the Unity system are all installed.
Tested a few systems to check all was fine and working, and they are; tested the GBA on the GameCube and same issue. I think the problem is in fact not the amperage to the console (GBA Player and GameCube unit) but it insists on having a direct path to the grounding from the voltage source, or it just throws a hissy. What that means is i've had to put in another switch to select when playing GBA games, and remember to switch it off afterwards. I thought in retrospect it made more sense to use the GBA Player as it was an official product and therefore the colours are better than using a GBA Converter for this, which is a third party gadget anyway.
So that means the system ends with 18 systems working on Project Unity.
I just need to make the controller for the GameCube now, then all of those are done too, and can concentrate on making the casing.
One thing now, the switch unit has a spare slot doing nothing. I'm thinking of cutting those posts out and using it as the position for the main system on/off switch, and the old bay, above the CoreGrafx system, for the controller port. Reason is the on/off switch will be in a better position and less crammed; although I have options to consider on the placement of course.
When the casing is finished, which will take a good few hours to do, I have a few overlays to make and design for the keypad on the Master Controller, and also for a few of the NES carts; so plenty to do yet!
I am the Bacman
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
really excited to see how this pans out.
Steam / PSN / Twitter: aaronjohnmiller
Re: Bacteria's project: "Project Unity"
Made some great progress.
Also did some experimentation.
A while back I did a similar thing that Ashen first did with using a resistor on the GameCube controller to the tact switch, with the DreamCast. This time I was doing it with the GameCube. http://www.made-by-bacteria.com/forum/v ... ?f=42&t=25
Decided to start looking at the variable pots for the shoulder triggers on the GameCube to look at the resistance levels in more detail. Turned out the variable resistors have quite a large range, especially at the end of their range; for my DreamCast I used 2k resistors as I recall, and Ashen was right with the spec of 10k resistors for the GameCube; they don't have to be exact, i'm using 9.7k ones and they work great.
One big thing that cost me a fair bit of time and headscratching though; if you look at the picture below (pic uploaded in the thread above)
One thing I discovered is that sure, you need to use a different grounding for the shoulder buttons due to the resistor, sure, however if you connect them together as common ground for the buttons, or for that matter, they actually work in reverse. Normally on a button, you have the button signal and ground, complete the circuit and you get connection. On this diagram however, the button signal is the reference and the ground+resistor is the signal. Yes, I know. Had to do a lot of headscratching to work that out, as I either got no shoulder movement or if I pressed left or right shoulder buttons they did the same thing. Connect the two signal connectors together (treating like ground) and use the resistor+ground as per pic above, and it works great; although for some reason, left works as right and right works as left! (just need to swap 2 wires over, no biggie).
Anyway, I seem to have completed the GameCube controller now, will do final testing tomorrow and then close up the game cart.
Yes, that will mean all the consoles and electronics are completed, and working; the next step will be making a template for the casing and making the casing itself. I'll be starting that tomorrow.
I indicated before that I aimed to have this project finished by the end of February; won't be too far off that in reality; end of Feb is pushing it as there are only 3 days left in Feb; however give me to the middle of March and should be done, if not before with any luck. I will still have the other stuff to do then (overlays, decals, etc) before calling this project "finished" and making the videos for it, but the conclusion of the project is in sight well and truly now.
Also did some experimentation.
A while back I did a similar thing that Ashen first did with using a resistor on the GameCube controller to the tact switch, with the DreamCast. This time I was doing it with the GameCube. http://www.made-by-bacteria.com/forum/v ... ?f=42&t=25
Decided to start looking at the variable pots for the shoulder triggers on the GameCube to look at the resistance levels in more detail. Turned out the variable resistors have quite a large range, especially at the end of their range; for my DreamCast I used 2k resistors as I recall, and Ashen was right with the spec of 10k resistors for the GameCube; they don't have to be exact, i'm using 9.7k ones and they work great.
One big thing that cost me a fair bit of time and headscratching though; if you look at the picture below (pic uploaded in the thread above)
One thing I discovered is that sure, you need to use a different grounding for the shoulder buttons due to the resistor, sure, however if you connect them together as common ground for the buttons, or for that matter, they actually work in reverse. Normally on a button, you have the button signal and ground, complete the circuit and you get connection. On this diagram however, the button signal is the reference and the ground+resistor is the signal. Yes, I know. Had to do a lot of headscratching to work that out, as I either got no shoulder movement or if I pressed left or right shoulder buttons they did the same thing. Connect the two signal connectors together (treating like ground) and use the resistor+ground as per pic above, and it works great; although for some reason, left works as right and right works as left! (just need to swap 2 wires over, no biggie).
Anyway, I seem to have completed the GameCube controller now, will do final testing tomorrow and then close up the game cart.
Yes, that will mean all the consoles and electronics are completed, and working; the next step will be making a template for the casing and making the casing itself. I'll be starting that tomorrow.
I indicated before that I aimed to have this project finished by the end of February; won't be too far off that in reality; end of Feb is pushing it as there are only 3 days left in Feb; however give me to the middle of March and should be done, if not before with any luck. I will still have the other stuff to do then (overlays, decals, etc) before calling this project "finished" and making the videos for it, but the conclusion of the project is in sight well and truly now.
I am the Bacman