SNES fuse repair

[vlame]

Got a power brick less snes in a trade.

Found a brick for $3, didn't work. I am going to try and repair the fuse. I want to try the normal glass fuse method, so if it happens again it will be easier to fix.

4.5mm Gamebit Security Bit Driver
3.8mm Gamebit Security Bit Driver
Fuse
Fuse holders - which should i get?
Blown SNES Fuse Repair

Anything else I will need besides a working power brick?

[Hobie-wan]

There's plenty of room for just about any type of those ones in the middle of a wire. Just make sure they'll support a fuse of the Amperage you need.

[Retrozoa]

You only need the 3.8 screwdriver if you plan on opening a cart. Might as well get one though, as it's essential for replacing dead batteries in carts.

[vlame]

You only need the 3.8 screwdriver if you plan on opening a cart. Might as well get one though, as it's essential for replacing dead batteries in carts.

and this site has em for like 1/2 price with free shipping.

[Ziggy]

Did you check the fuse yet? If not, you should really check it first before trying to replace it.

[vlame]

i don't even have gamebits... lol. what else could be wrong and what would i look for when i open it? discolored fuse?

[Ziggy]

You need a multi meter, like I described in the power adapter thread. To test a fuse, put your meter on the continuity setting and touch one probe to one end of the fuse and the other probe to the other end of the fuse. Polarity doesn't matter. If you get the "beeeep" then the fuse is good, no beep means the fuse is dead. If your meter doesn't have a continuity setting, you can use a resistance setting (ohms, k ohms, m ohms). A fuse should have a resistance of zero. A crappy meter might read a very small resistance through the fuse, but as long as you get a reading of 0 or close to 0 then it's good. Again, no reading, the fuse is dead. You can use the meter in the DC voltage setting to test the power adapter, too. You should really test both the power adapter and fuse first, before you do anything. Perhaps the fuse is fine but the power adapter is dead. Or the power adapter might have breaks in the wire. Very common for cheap 3rd party adapters.

[vlame]

i have a continuity multimeter. i'll try this.

[lwcook]

You need a multi meter, like I described in the power adapter thread. To test a fuse, put your meter on the continuity setting and touch one probe to one end of the fuse and the other probe to the other end of the fuse. Polarity doesn't matter. If you get the "beeeep" then the fuse is good, no beep means the fuse is dead. If your meter doesn't have a continuity setting, you can use a resistance setting (ohms, k ohms, m ohms). A fuse should have a resistance of zero. A crappy meter might read a very small resistance through the fuse, but as long as you get a reading of 0 or close to 0 then it's good. Again, no reading, the fuse is dead. You can use the meter in the DC voltage setting to test the power adapter, too. You should really test both the power adapter and fuse first, before you do anything. Perhaps the fuse is fine but the power adapter is dead. Or the power adapter might have breaks in the wire. Very common for cheap 3rd party adapters.

What Ziggy said. It'll be real easy to figure out if it's the fuse or not.

If you don't have a multimeter, then I'd say it's cheaper to just replace the fuse at a guess. But that's only if you're competent in dealing with electronics, which means you should have a multimeter in the first place.

Test it. Troubleshooting is a good skill to have.

[Hobie-wan]

Vlame and I had previously discussed checking for voltage coming from the power brick and I had said that if the brick was working, then fuse was probably the next thing to check if there was no response at all.