Need Racketboy's expertise on a Dual Shock franken-mod.

[Lodestar]

Here's my dilemma.

My very best controller which I used for fighting games specifically due to its wonderfully broken-in d-pad, is no longer in commission. Mainly because I was cleaning the grime off of it with alcohol one day and I think some of the liquid slipped under the d-pad and ruined the down direction - now it only activates about 40% of the time, much too unreliable for continued use. This was high purity isopropyl, I thought after it evaporated, my controller would be fine again... unfortunately not. That's not the only problem this controller has, the analog button likes to turn itself off from time to time, not sure why. Maybe a loose contact? Anyway...

Luckily for me, I have another identical PSone Dual Shock controller (white) that I can swap parts with, but there's another problem:

-There are one or two stripped screws preventing me from opening the broken-in controller.

Provided I can get it open, I would probably swap out the rubber pad underneath the d-pad into the newer PSone Dual Shock I have, which has a very rigid d-pad that is much too stiff for me.

I will need help with putting everything back together, so I need a guide (or video) on DualShock assembly to complete this franken-mod.

I hope RB can help.

[Demented Collector]

I don't have a guide or video but the dual shocks arn't too complicated internally, dismatled and serviced 2 just last week.

Once the screws are all out place the controller button side down.
Remove the rear of the casing gentley and gradually all round, don't pull at just one point.
The guts should remain in the front part of the casing.
Might be worth taking a photo at this point, for reference, so you know how the insides sit.
Swap what you need to and give every thing a good clean.
Place everything back and make sure the cables for the rumbles are routed correctly.
Gently replace the back of the controller, if it doesn't fit right first time it may be the top/shoulder buttons arn't sitting quite right.
Test for function before replacing screws.

Edit: If you get really stuck let us know and I'll get some photos up.

[Hobie-wan]

Since you were cleaning it closed, the liquid probably ended up washing some dirt further into the pad and it dried in the nice space between the board and the rubber dome. Once opened, you can probably clean the contact and the pad and it will be fine. As for the stripped screws, are the heads stripped so you can't turn it, or have they been tightened too much and stripped the plastic that the screw is gripping into?

[Lodestar]

They're stripped and won't turn.


Demented, can you get some photos up please? I'm not even sure how the cord is supposed to be situated, but it's easier to tell with pictures than a description. Thanks.

[Hobie-wan]

They're stripped and won't turn.


Demented, can you get some photos up please? I'm not even sure how the cord is supposed to be situated, but it's easier to tell with pictures than a description. Thanks.

If you have a drill, a small drill bit about the size of the screw head (or slightly smaller), and a steady hand you could drill off the heads since the stripped center will give you something to sit in. You'd want to go very slowly a little at a time just enough to remove the head. Then you should be able to pop the controller open and you'll have a little bit of the screw sticking up that you can hopefully grab with needlenose pliers to twist out. Remember you only want to drill enough to destroy the screw head, you don't want to drill into the plastic or else you'll have nothing for a new screw to hold on to.

[Lodestar]

I wonder how small that drill bit would have to be, they're diminutive mini-screws. Would I be better off getting an extractor kit or something?

[Hobie-wan]

You said it was a pad. For most pads I've opened, a 5/64 or 3/32 bit would probably work. You want something just bigger than the shaft of the screw, but obviously smaller than the hole. Slightly smaller or bigger than the head of the screw shouldn't matter much. Most small sets of drill bits should have those sizes. Compare with one you've already taken out. Just have to be really careful if you don't have a manual or variable speed drill. I don't think a screw extractor will help much on one that small and down in a plastic tube like that.

[vlame]

crack that shit open with a hammer or slice it with a heated box cutter. if you only want to get the d-pad conductor out this should be fine.

[Demented Collector]

Sorry for the delay, had to pick my sister up from the airport.

Screws removed and back off will look like this...

Note how the rumbles sit and thier wires.
You'll then need to remove the screw holding the circuit board.

Circuit board lifted up...

Note the routing of the main wire.

Circuit board and plastic frame removed...


Do not fit the number "1" shoulder buttons before the plastic frame, they will foul the rubber pads.
Also the front buttons won't protrude from the front until the back casing is fitted.
As said before the shoulder buttons may need slight adjustment if the back won't go on easily.

Re the stripped screws, have you tried to use a flat bladed screwdriver to remove them?

[Lodestar]

Thanks for the images, I'm having problems situating the cord, does it go behind the circuit board? How does it wrap around the pegs? That's the most problematic thing for me right now.

Also, where's the four pronged claw thing that goes over your d-pad? Does your DS not have one or am I not seeing it?