At 480i, the difference from S-Video is very subtle until roughly 27" screens, except in one rather negative way - noise. Bad component really showcases interference and cable inadequacies. One common flaw will be a deep, reddish vertical band about 1/4 the width of the screen - visible in the deepest-darks. Also an overall greenish color-cast can often be observed.
On one hand it's awesome that so many machines now have 3rd-party HDMI converters available (like GameCube and XBox) and at such remarkable prices (around $25), because quality Component cabling is expensive. Where DVI/HDMI is either there or it's not, Component is in many ways the most sensitive and fragile analogue signal in electronics, and if you're serious about making the most of it on systems like the Wii Virtual Console, you'll need the best: MONSTER cable. This is one of the few cases where the big name is very worth it. Cabling from your console to the switching unit and then back to the TV can equal 12' in a heartbeat and if you are using a big, gorgeous CRT, then that means High Voltage radio interference from the Flyback Transformer (basically a Tesla Coil) and Horizontal Sweep Modulators - and LOTS of it.
Now if it is only one console you're talking about then you only need a MONSTER cable for that system, but some crazy people like me, are still using 4-systems on component, and I've tried a number of switchers over the years. They basically fall into two categories - cheap and professional. Cheap will be mechanical switchers like the ones Pelican made for Gamestop. They can often do a decent job, but over time, the buttons get snotty and stop working reliably (keep in mind you are switching 5-lines in total).
- Mechanical switchers are affordable, but often unreliable.
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One step-up would be units like the Philips electronic auto-switchers. Sadly, this second option is actually 2-steps back because it adds a LOT of digital noise and random flickering to the signal. Even with these limitations, they have remained remarkably spendy, often fetching as much as $30 for a used one on eBay because of being the last rung before getting into the ultra-expensive professional models.
- There are a lot of these Philips auto-switchers out there, but you can do better!
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So let's introduce you to one of those. There are a number on the market, but one that is pretty easy to come by is the Audio Authority 1154/1154A. They are easily identified with the funky-logo on the top and spartan appearance (like a metaphorical "Black Box" on an airplane), but make no mistake, this is GOLD STANDARD. Fully auto-switching 4-component video lines AND 4 COAXIAL OR OPTICAL DIGITAL AUDIO SIGNALS!!!! With good ole MONSTER cable going in and out, we are talking about silky-smooth switching with NO NOISE. Adding the Switcher and an additional 6' of cable make NO DIFFERENCE!
- "Who's Your Daddy!"
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So now you're wondering "How Much?" and "Why Would I Bother?" (when HDMI is so common)? Because - a cosmetic case redesign in the follow-up 1154B model, has resulted in BIG price-breaks on a lot of these clunkier, but still bad-ass/functionally-identical older models.
See a recent eBay search:
- Great things come to those who wait for a newer-version to come out!
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SO - If you already have the cabling or find it second-hand (still possible to get a good deal at yard sales or 2nd hand stores), add in one of these great switchers and an EXCELLENT Sony Wega, JVC or Panosonic SD/ED/HD CRT and you now have state of the art (that was) arcade hardware in your home - and thanks to the popular move to HDMI - at a GREAT PRICE!
FINAL NOTE: if you find an Audio Authority 1154/1154A without the AC adapter - keep in mind they use a kinda rare/strange center-negative plug going in. Using a regular adapter at best won't work and at worst will burn-up the unit.
