Review Soldering "Kit" I'm Putting Together

[Jagosaurus]

So funny enough, I was around soldering on a daily basis for 2 years (2010 to 2012) in my job, but I was a field tech. The workbench repair guys got the soldering time so I really just watched occasionally when I was in the office with spare time. That said... I've decided to jump in from a hobbyist and nerd perspective, then eventually console mod/repair further down the road.

My goal here is to put together a decent kit. I'm going for the quality, mid-tier range. Not the Cadillac, but not the Pinto. I know subpar tools can make this more difficult than it has to be. I'm viewing it as tool investment, and good tools aren't cheap, but don't want to get too crazy. Let me know what you think of below "BOM" for my needs:

Hakko FX-888D KIT - Bundle Includes Soldering Station and CHP170 Cutter
for $109.99

T18 Soldering Tips For HAKKO FX-888D FX-888 FX-8801 FX-600 (10 pcs tip set)
for $17.98

MAIYUM 63-37 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Wire for Electrical Soldering (0.8mm 50g)
for $8.59

SRA Soldering Products Rosin Paste Flux #135 In A 2 oz Jar
for $9.11

Kaisi S-140 Magnetic Insulation Silicone Soldering Mat (13.8 x 9.8 inch) Magnetic Repair Mat, Heat Resistant Work Mat 932°F
for $10.99

AstroAI Digital Multimeter
for $12.99

Solder Tip Cleaning Wire Replacements
for $7.99

Tabiger Solder Wick & Desoldering Pump
for $10.99

Total Pre-Tax:
$188.83

Any recommendations for starter test kits? Looks to be some fun ones on Amazon for small light tests, radios, alarm clocks, electric cars, etc for the $10 to $30 range each.

Further down the road before I started on console maintenance or repairs, I would highly likely invest in a dedicated desoldering gun, but I think it's overkill for starting. Also, important to note I have a little desk fan to blow fumes away from my face and there's a nice, bright LED lamp at work station. Should make for a good desk area for projects when paired with mat above.

Did I miss anything? Any differing recs? Thanks RB .

[Ziggy]

Awesome! I love talking about soldering!

Hakko FX-888D KIT - Bundle Includes Soldering Station and CHP170 Cutter
for $109.99

Good deal. That's the retail price for the station so you're getting the cutters for free essentially. I've seen slightly better deals, I think my FX888 came with 5 tips.

PSA: The FX888D is such a popular solder station that there are tons of fakes/counterfeits out there! Research the seller before you buy, and it's best to buy from authorized Hakko sellers. The fakes are so close to the original that they're almost impossible to spot unless you have real one to do a side by side comparison. The best way to tell if you have a legit or fake is to open it up and look at the IC on the mainboard. It should be a Hakko part, you can Google for the correct part number. If it's an Atmel or some other microcontroller then it's definitely a fake!

My tip for flush cutters: Be aware of their limit! I'm not familiar with the CHP170 but they do have the max copper diameter printed on the handle, be sure to follow that. There's nothing more painful then ruining your cutters because you tried to cut something to tough for them. And on that note, you really want a good pair of flush cutters because you want to be able to cut as much as possible and last a while (they will eventually wear out).

T18 Soldering Tips For HAKKO FX-888D FX-888 FX-8801 FX-600 (10 pcs tip set)
for $17.98

Looks like a good selection. Tip size and shape is very much a preference thing. There really is no wrong choice, it's whatever you're comfortable using that gets the job done. Personally, I usually stick with chisel tips. I'll switch to a hoof tip if I feel like it would be beneficial for a drag technique, but depending on the IC package I might just stick with a chisel because I'm too lazy to swap it out lol. The knife tip I've never used, I forget if I even have one. The bent conical tips are great and I'm a fan, but again I usually stick with a chisel if that's what I already have on there. The pencil tips, I just don't feel like they're ever useful. I'd like some one to tell me. I've never had the NEED for one, and I have several sizes. I actually find them harder to use than a small chisel or bent conical. Also, I watch a ton of soldering videos on YouTube and I never see anyone using them. But, experiment with them anyway because to each his own. Again, there's really no wrong choice as long as you get the job done.

My only tip for tips (no pun intended) is to stick with name brands and take care of them so they will last a long time. A Hakko brand tip, if you keep it cleaned and tinned it should last a hobbyist practically forever!

MAIYUM 63-37 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Wire for Electrical Soldering (0.8mm 50g)
for $8.59

Looks good. Close to a 60/40 lead/tin and rosin core, that's exactly what you want. It's 0.8mm diameter, which has been my go to for a while (0.032"). I've never heard of this brand, but as long as the specs aren't lying then it's pretty much exactly what I use.

SRA Soldering Products Rosin Paste Flux #135 In A 2 oz Jar
for $9.11

What kind of flux you use is also very much a preference thing. I have a little tin of paste flux like this and I pretty much NEVER use it. It's just a pain in the ass for most things. If you're doing a lot of PCB or perf board work, get a liquid flux or the kind of paste flux that comes in a syringe. I have liquid flux that I use to use all the time, but I don't like how it runs all over the board. So I switch to a paste flux that stays where you dispense it. This is the exact one I've been using...

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-mil ... 00425FUW2/

Some people like to use a flux pen, which is basically liquid flux that you paint on so it's a little neater than using liquid flux from a syringe.

Get a "no clean" flux, which will do just as good of job. You should still clean it, but it's a lot easier to clean and wont have the potential of messing up your board if you don't get it all. Apparently a strong flux can corrode a board over time, which is why you want to clean it.

Kaisi S-140 Magnetic Insulation Silicone Soldering Mat (13.8 x 9.8 inch) Magnetic Repair Mat, Heat Resistant Work Mat 932°F
for $10.99

That mat looks nice. I prefer to have one without the little indents for parts (I use magnetic trays for screws). The one I got is pretty thin though and the edges still want to curl which is very annoying. This one looks like it might actually lay flat. Let me know how you like it!

AstroAI Digital Multimeter
for $12.99

Looks fine, but I would recommend getting an auto ranging meter which will be a lot more user friendly. Here's a cheap one I've used for a few years now and have liked...

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto ... B000EVYGZA

Solder Tip Cleaning Wire Replacements
for $7.99

WTF, a 10 pack for $8? That's how much I paid for 1 Hakko brand lol. But they actually last a pretty long time, 10 could be a lifetime supply for a hobbyist.

I like using these wires mesh cleaners a lot more than damp sponges. They both have their usefulness, though. I really like how the stand for the Hakko FX888D has both.

Tabiger Solder Wick & Desoldering Pump
for $10.99

These look fine, but here's some suggestions anyway...

You can get copper braid that has flux on it, which makes it a little easier to use. I have braid without flux, and it works perfectly fine. And anytime I need a little better performance I just put some flux on the braid. But having an entire roll of braid that already has flux on it is pretty nice. If I ever run out of braid that's what I'll get.

Those spring action desolder things I've never used. I have a little desolder bulb, similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Sold ... 00EO4GN1I/

Any recommendations for starter test kits? Looks to be some fun ones on Amazon for small light tests, radios, alarm clocks, electric cars, etc for the $10 to $30 range each.

I never really did the kit thing so I have no recommendations. But consider picking up some perf (perforated) board so you can build your own circuits. There's lots of easy beginner friendly circuits to build, such as this one: https://dcemulation.org/?title=Dreamcas ... ster_Cable

For sourcing the parts for such a project, I recommend DigiKey. Most parts are going to be dirty cheap. So usually when I put stuff like resistors and capacitors, I buy more than I need for the project and then keep the extras as stock for future projects. You could alternatively buy packs of common values resistors, capacitors, et cetera to get you going.

Further down the road before I started on console maintenance or repairs, I would highly likely invest in a dedicated desoldering gun, but I think it's overkill for starting. Also, important to note I have a little desk fan to blow fumes away from my face and there's a nice, bright LED lamp at work station. Should make for a good desk area for projects when paired with mat above.

I had wanted to get a desoldering vacuum station for the longest time but a decent one isn't cheap. I used a Radio Shack version of this for many years...

https://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-045-DS-Ele ... 00068IJSG/

It gets the job done, and is well worth the price. But there's some things it's just not cut out for. But I instead decided to get a budget hot air station rather than a desoldering station. I wanted to get hot air for surface mount stuff. But even for desoldering through hole components, if my braid and/or desoldering iron can't get it out then the hot air will.

That's great that you have a small desk fan, you don't want those fumes in your face. Aside from the obvious health concerns, it's just annoying. I use to solder all the time with out a fan and I can't tell you how many times I had to stop because the smoke was making my eyes tear lol. And lighting is a huge thing, so that's good if you have a nice bright light for your work area.

[Jagosaurus]

Ziggy, all awesome feedback, advice, & sanity checks.

Will dig into links. I have some time. I'm likely moving this summer so trying not to accumulate more before then... but you know lol.

I will say... small beans... but I'm not a fan of the Hakko color schemes. Making it look the N64 Pokémon console was an odd choice. I like how the Weller actually looks like a tool vs Bob the Builder

[Ziggy]

Haha, YES, the Hakko does look like a toy. And, in fact, is very close to the colors of the Pokemon N64. I actually hated the way it looks, but at the same time it's also kind of cool because you can always spot one in people's videos. It has since grown on me. I find it funny that the most expensive iron I have ever owned also looks like the cheapest. I have a cheap 858D hot air station which sits side by side with the Hakko on my workbench. I chuckled when I got it because I thought when someone (who isn't into this sort of thing) sees my workbench they're gonna think I have this expensive hot air station and this Fisher Price soldering iron! When, in fact, the hot air station was like a third the cost of the Hakko.

But yeah, the Weller does look a lot more professional. I think I said in the other thread, but when I got my Hakko it was between that and the equivalent model Weller. I spent a long time watching videos and reading reviews for both models, and despite it looking like a Fischer Price toy the Hakko just seemed like the better product. And after owning the Hakko for some years now, I have not regretted my choice at all.

Speaking of the 858D hot air rework station, I highly recommend it. It's the kind of thing where a ton of companies make this 858D model so you can find it from a ton of brands, and they aren't equal so you have to be careful. Some are worth every penny, and some are built poorly or with errors. I went with a CO-Z 858D based on reviews. I haven't used it a whole lot yet, but it seems great so far. A lot of people use an 858D, I learned of it just from the number of people using them in YouTube videos. Definitely stick with what you're doing for now, but once you inevitably start doing surface mount stuff, circle back and consider getting one of these.

I mentioned in my first reply that I use a desolder bulb instead of one of those spring action things, and I wanted to expand on that more. I'm not sure if one has more suction power than the other, but it really doesn't matter since neither will be a real substitute for a vacuum desoldering station. But I never bother trying a spring action desolderer because I find the bulb so easy to use. There's no lever you have to reset, you just squeeze the bulb and then release to make the suction. And it's dead simple to clean out.

[Anapan]

I don't see any fault in the kit.

I used paste for a while, but I hate how messy it is and how sticky it gets. I only use a Kester rosin flux pen (any brand is good, I have two other brand with mushed up tips that were also fine). The paste is messy and an overkill if you're using rosin-core wire which builds up its own flux in a pool anyway. It's necessary for plumbing and heavy-duty or dirty situations, but IMO with small electronics, a light dampening with the flux pen is sufficient. For crusty looking stuff, I just depresses the tip a couple of times and douse the nasty joint with more. I watch those videos where guys squeeze a syringe full of flux over their joint and do all their work submerged, and while the results are always impressive, with a light covering mine turn out the same. and I can't imagine the cleanup - so much sticky burnt residue.

Another note, when working with solder wick, the pens can make them a lot more effective. Again, I haven't used paste for a long time, tho I expect charging the ribbon with paste would also make it more absorbent.

For solder, I have a drawer full of crappy leadless and other. Once I started following Dave Jones' guides I tracked down Multicore brand solder at roughly 1/2 the diameter you listed - 0.46mm. I found that I can still get the same product he uses, tho it was hard to track down as the brand-name is now owned by Loctite. The part number is "362 60EN 5C 0.46MM R 250G" and I think it cost me around $20 USD for 1/2 a pound of it
.
As far as usability goes, this is the best I've used. My brother and I have been using the same spool for almost 4 years and have barely dented it after about 15 completed projects - recapping, colsolification, RGB mods and the like. With this diameter, you have a lot of control when filling larger diameter through hole by pushing it in rapidly, but can do even the most delicate repairs on surface-mount without it pooling up.

I have a good hot-air rework station and have barely used it except for heat-shrink tubing. When I did use it, it was for tough situations, and I'm not very good at judging my heat well, so I ended up scorching stuff. It works perfectly, I just don't use it much. I'd recommend saving up the money you'd spend on one get a cheap clone of the good vacuum desoldering guns. After deciding I needed one, I searched for the cheapest one I could find decent reviews on. I got a zd-985 and I use it *all-the-time*. It's the biggest game changer if you're doing any through-hole work (like retro consoles). The hot-air reworking is mostly for removing surface-mount IC's - Ram and CPUs and the like, or reballing CPUs in 360's. Not really a thing that I need to do regularly. Usually when dealing with advanced IC's I just need to lifti a leg or two for a mod, which the 2mm hakko chisel-tip is perfect for.

That being said, I used and in fact still use the spring-loaded desoldering tool. It's really effective if you add more of the lead-solder and heat everything properly. It does a thorough job of removing everything liquid from the area. I've been using the same one forever and it's still something I keep out for any rework.

The only other thing I can think of that's very cheap and very useful is ChipQuik. If you're doing any IC desoldering without a vacuum-desoldering station, this is a no-brainer. It's cheap and incredibly effective. It'll keep the solder joint liquid for long enough to remove any large chips - through-hole or surface-mount with only your soldering iron and some tweezers. Easy cleanup with solder-wick and it's like the chip was never there.

[Ziggy]

Yeah, you don't always have to add flux. I think that might be one of the biggest misconceptions for beginners is that they have to always use flux. You hear how essential flux is, and it IS essential, but that's why solder for electronics has a flux core. So if you're soldering through hole stuff, you pretty much never need to add flux because the flux that's already in the solder is enough. You might only need to add flux for through hole if you need to reflow a joint, which is usually only when you're doing a repair. With a cold or cracked joint, sometimes you can just add more solder, which is applying some flux to reflow the joint.

Surface mount though, you'll need flux a lot more often. For really fine pitch IC packages, the only way to really solder them with an iron is to do a flood and drag technique. You apply solder to the iron tip, more so then you normally would to tin it. Normally this is a big no-no because it burns the flux away and then you can't get a proper solder joint. But that's why you need flux for this technique. You apply flux to the pins, then drag the iron tip across the pins.

A hot air station is mostly used for surface mount stuff, but there's no reason you can't use it to desolder through hole stuff. Don't get me wrong, a proper vacuum pump desolder station is the way to go, but a decent one isn't cheap. I could justify the cost if I was doing mods and repair full time. The silly $15 desoldering iron that I linked actually works VERY well for desoldering through hole components. I've removed tons of DIP packages and through hole components with one. The only time it really fails is with those nasty plated through hole like the NES uses. Those things are a bitch to desolder cleanly, and the $15 desoldering iron isn't really up for the task (especially on the ground pins). If you were doing this sort of work often, a vacuum pump desolder gun is mandatory. Once in a while though, there's no reason hot air can't be used. You get as much of the solder off as you can with the desoldering iron or copper braid, then just hit it with hot air and pull it out. Easy peasy. You could even forgo removing some solder before the hot air, it would just take a little longer to heat up.

Chip Quik is AMAZING and I've used it for years (see it in action here). If you don't have hot air, it's really the only (non destructive) way to remove surface mount ICs. You can also reuse the alloy quite a bit, and use any flux with it, so one package can last you a very long time. But consider that the cost of two packages of Chip Quik can get you an 858D hot air rework station. Hot air will be easier and faster.

[fastbilly1]

Chip Quik is AMAZING and I've used it for years

That was amazing. I will be adding some to my next Amazon order

[Jagosaurus]

Thanks gents. I'm following the convo, but know it will make more practical sense once I dive in. All awesome info.